What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

One is the driver's side pack (A)

The other is the passenger's side pack (B)

Both packs have the AAL.

Even if my shocks and leaf packs were old.. the manufacture date on my coil spring tags is from 2014 (I bought the truck early 2015.)
Nothing seemed to be sagging, the leaf packs were still slightly positive when on the truck and once off the truck had plenty bend in them.

I'll have pics in a couple of days. The boot fins touch, but they're not horrendous.

 

Off the truck doesn't mean anything.

If you had 4" of lift up front you'd hate your truck. You'd have maybe .5-.25" of down travel.

Your cvs would have already blown boots and shit would bind like crazy when turning.

Two years on stock coils can be enough to kill them. Even less depending on use age. I killed my eibachs almost in two years.

You may have net gained 4" but you where probably at least an inch low from factory specs.

 

I wasn't asking for a lecture, just stating what the net gain was and the fact that none of my suspension was significantly shot. Even if I was sitting an inch low to begin with I still gained a metric fuckton of lift.

The numbers I gave are from before driving on it, I'll remeasure over the next couple weeks and see where I end up.

 

What are the actual numbers you are seeing now?

edit: I should be clearer... What are they ground to fender or hub to fender?

 

@gray223


I would just clean up the rust and plate the frame all the way back. Maybe even box it if the budget/ time were available.

 

I'd have to go out and measure. The previously posted numbers were from before driving. Since then I've put at least 300 miles on the truck.

 

Oh, I must have missed those numbers. I only read where you said 4" in the front. Do you have the hub to fender before driving numbers?

 

Right. But it sounded like you where complaining that it was too much.

My point is that it's 3" of lift as advertised but only on a brand new truck. Not your old saggy coils. Then yea it's gonna be more.

 

Before:
FD: 20&1/8
FP: 21
RD: 20&7/8
RP: 21&5/8

After:
FD: 24&3/8
FP: 24&3/4
RD: 27&5/8
RP: 27&5/8

 

Nahh, not complaining at all. I started by responding to some post letting them know what I'd got (making sure to comment that it was an outlier!) He responded with surprise saying that he had heard the lift would only be about 2.5"... I concurred and informed him that my numbers were pre-settling and on suspension that wasn't brand spanking new. At this point, I believe those posts are buried a few pages deep.

I've looked at plenty of CV angle pics online and what I have now (pre-settle) is right in line with what everyone else seems to end up with.

I know that my truck was sagging to some extent before putting the new suspension in, it just seemed to perk up a surprising amount with the OME. Some local Taco owners are flabbergasted at how much lift I achieved... we'll see how much I retain.

 

I think thats pretty much the only option. Seeing as most of the top portion is just gone. Guess I'm gonna learn how to weld

 

Yeah find a friend with a welder, cut out some plates, drink some beer and patch up that frame!

 

That is a lot of rake. 3" front to back is a lot. I would guesstimate your front numbers are closer to 3" over stock, not 4". I only have mine to compare to but I am at 24" on both sides which is ~2.5 over stock.

 

Sad part is that I have a half way decent welder. Just don't know how to weld haha. None of my buddies do either. I'd go to my local fabricator but honestly this truck isn't worth dumping any real money into. Needs a good bit of body work along with the frame.

 

Who cares if its a little rough around the edges? Thats a perfect starting point for a trail rig or expo build

 

I considered doing an off road build with it. If I can get it back to state inspection standards than I will most likely use it for trails this summer. And if it hasn't fallen apart by then I'll use it for a winter rig. I'm already attached to the stupid thing and I've never even driven it.

 

If it comes down to it it would be easy to part out and make some $

 

@RustyVT

Just grind off all the rust and plate it. Then but some chassis saver on it. A easy way to cut frame plates is in a pic in my build. I'll dig it up in a sec.

 

If I lived in an area that didn't have really strict inspection standards I'd keep it for sure. But they just passed a law last year that patching frames is illegal now. Not to say inspection stations won't inspect it regardless, but you have to find the right guy. Worst case scenario you plaster the frame in oil + wax and drive down dirt roads for a few hours. Looks like a perfectly normal frame with some dirt on it after that.

 

What type of welder do you have?
With a mig welder you could put in plates and after grinding and paint no one would know about a patch, just clean up and paint the whole frame.

If you have shop space pull the body off and clean all the frame up, patch all the bad spots and don't worry about a time frame.