Fire Extinguisher...get one!

Halons have used to extinguish fires in aircraft for decades and nobody has suffocated. But like they say, too much of anything will kill you.

 

Correct but there are different types of halon. All come with different numbers and slightly different name. All have different characteristics that I am not an expert on. Old style original halon if ya will for use in clean rooms ext rapidly dispersed oxygen.
Co2 in a enclosed space will take up the same space as oxy and will lower the oxy level. If you take a air tight room and pump any gas in it will remove any other gas. Where certain types of halon not all, the gas actually repels oxygen itself.
I'm not a chemist so not sure if I explained that right

 

I choose a dry chem ABC over CO2 or Halotron for one simple reason, it is not for use on my own vehicle, i feel that as many problems will show up from any fire in the vehicle, its best to let it burn, its what insurance is for (aside from a small tire fire or brake fire). I keep a 5lb abc in my access cab and a 10lb in my double cab, both with hoses and metal servicable handles so i can refill them. I take em out once a month to beat the bottom with a rubber mallet to ensure the powder doesn't settle.

As for ratings 1a is equivalent to 1.25 gallons of water, so 2a would be 2.5gals and ect
10B would be rated for 10 square feet of flammable liquids extinguished by a trained person 20b would be 20sq ft.

C has no rating.

Be aware that when some metals start burning an extinguisher may not help, now will water unless applied in copious amounts. A good way to stop this is dry soil.

I hope this helps someof yall.

Also now halon is stupid expensive, the more encironmentally friendly version is halotron, id personally prefer CO2 over this though due to cost and the fact that most halotron extinguishers do not have a hose or horn until you get to the 10lb sizes....and thats big money and a big extinguisher. Applied correctly i believe dry chem does the best job putting out a variety of fires

 

Great info.
Thanks.
May go pick one up today.

 

That one never entered my mind.

 

Ugh, there is some bad info in this thread along with some dangerous mountings. Luckily there is also some good info.

As noted, Halon production is banned but it is reclaimed and available, just expensive. You can still buy it in hand held and mounted systems and it is used in critical systems such as museums, computer servers, aircraft and military applications. It is not some super lethal substance; in fact, it is less toxic than some other chemicals used for firefighting. It works by disrupting the combustion process but in doing so it can displace oxygen and can cause suffocation as it floods a compartment- this can also happen with other agents such as CO2 and argon.
Some actual info here: http://www.nfpa.it/d_faq.htm
and here http://www.h3rcleanagents.com/support_faq_2.htm
Your local fire department or fire marshal’s office should be happy to provide you with training on the selection and use of fire extinguishers.

Briefly, there are three parts to a fire- oxygen/oxidizing agent, heat and fuel. Remove any of these and just as a tripod can't stand without all three legs, the fire can't continue. Most fire extinguishers remove the oxygen, usually by displacement. A simple example of removing the oxygen is putting the lid on a grease fire on your stove. As noted most vehicle fires start small and can usually be contained if caught and attacked early; as the fire spreads your chances of saving it decrease rapidly- it can take a large amount of water to extinguish a fully involved vehicle. If the fire is seen under the hood, do not open the hood wide as you just increased the amount of oxygen that the fire needs. This isn't as big a problem if you have an engine or tanker truck sitting there with a couple hundred gallons of water but it can quickly overwhelm your small vehicle fire extinguisher. Pop the hood enough to get the nozzle in there and sweep the base of the fire. When you don't see any more fire then stop and reassess before popping the hood for a closer inspection. If you contained it quickly you may be able to salvage the vehicle so quickly flushing the powder is helpful as it can be quite destructive- this is why chemicals such as halon are popular as they leave no residue.

Another thing I noted is that in some of the pictures the extinguishers are either poorly mounted i.e. screws in plastic panels that are themselves held on to the vehicle by plastic push buttons, or they are poorly retained. That plastic strap that came with the mount is designed to retain the extinguisher in the bracket in a stationary location i.e. a wall in your house. It is in no way designed to retain the cylinder while bouncing down a dirt road or worse in an accident. Anything that is not retained securely in your vehicle becomes a potential missile in an accident; in an accident, the amount of kinetic energy that can be imparted to a loose object can be staggering. Just as you would not want your buddy to slap you upside the head with the steel extinguisher cylinder, you don't want it coming lose from that cheesy plastic strap and whacking you as your truck rolls over or is brought to a sudden stop by another driver or a tree. To paraphrase a saying from motorcycling riding, plan for the crash, not the ride. An example here is the safety inspections that organized rides have before hitting the trail- everything must be secured.

I've posted this picture before, but this was my '95 Tacoma after being struck by a Subaru. I was traveling about 45mph and the other driver was going slightly faster when he suddenly drifted across the double yellow line and struck me left of center (driver's side). You can see the frame buckled (note the shift in the bed) as did the cab and floorboard; it did not role over. I kicked the driver's door open and self-extricated, no hydraulic tools were used. You can imagine what would have happened if I had loose objects in the cab.


(I'd already pulled off the right Hella Rally 4000 before snapping this picture in the tow yard.)

On a related note, you’ll often see it recommended that dry chemical fire extinguishers kept in vehicles are best stored on their side as opposed to upright as it helps keep them from settling/clumping. I’ve read in several forums where engineers recommended periodically inverting your dry chemical extinguishers several times until you are sure the powder is free flowing inside (you can feel it). A rubber mallet can be used to bang the sides a few times to help if it’s being stubborn but that may also be a good sign that it’s time to either replace or recharge your extinguisher. The metal top types can often be serviced locally but the plastic top variety is usually unserviceable.


It's great that folks want to help, but make sure you get the training before you need it.

 

This is the best bed mount I have seen and right along the lines of what I was thinking of doing. Do you have any more pictures or a post where you describe how you made it?

 

I'll try to get ya some pics when I have some time, meanwhile, copied & pasted from my Quickbooks:

H3R Performance Extreme Duty Quick Release Fire Extinguisher Brackets - 250 Series for 3" Dia Extinguishers P/N

$85 NB300 (for 2.5 lb H3R extinguishers)

NB300 @ $63.73 ea (Sold by: Internet-Sales)
IIRC it will withstand 27 G's

I fabbed up some 1/4" (I think) PVC and used the cubby screws to secure it.
Never got around to securing the top.
Drilled & Tapped the PVC to hold the mount
Prob won't withstand the 27 G's
Also lost the bottom pin holding the extinguisher, replaced with cotter pin.

I'll try to get back to ya w/some more pics, those 2 are the only ones I have.


CC

 

I think it's the residue from the ABC extinguishers that is so corrosive to electronics. Basically save the vehicle and likely total it months later. I was looking at a 5 lb Amerex Halotron BC extinguisher for $135 when I came across the Kidde 10 BC disposables for $19 through Home Depot. Even if I need to replace it annually its seven years to reach the price of one Amerex. And even though its a powder extinguisher it isn't corrosive like the ABCs so much less chance of problems after using it under a hood or dash.

 

I'm working on a better mount, but I needed something to hold it for now. I was embarrassed to post my temporary setup, but I'll be brave. Note that I consider this a "bad" mounting setup so you don't need to judge. But if it makes you feel better, go for it, I don't mind.

I have my 5 lb unit mounted with one screw of the driver's side cubby through the mount. The base is resting on the bed rug. It's reasonably secure and probably OK for off-roading but I certainly wouldn't expect it to survive high G-loads in an accident. Access to the cubby is obviously an issue.

I've got some better mounting ideas, but it will be a while before I can get it built.

 

Bracket by Amerex, mounted with 6 pre bulbed rivnuts

 

Yup, just remembered..........



Pull pin, top releases, lift to remove


1/4" PVC - Cubby screws hold bottom, top still not secured
Bracket mounted with screws, washers, and nylock nuts, thru threaded holes in PVC



CC

 

Thanks! That definitely gives me some ideas.

 

That setup came out really nice. Fit, function and even looks good! Nice job.

 

I have a 10lbs behind the driver's seat waiting for me to make a quick release bracket to mount it in front under my knees. Planning on a larger, non-caustic attached to the bed rack or built in (race style).

 

So from the professionals who have posted in this thread: is Cold Fire a good way to go? I currently only have that First Alert one bought at Costco, seen a few posts above. I have the same one in my airplane hangar. For that one I think I will have a chat with the FAA for recommendations in the hangar and in the plane, but that is another topic.

My main interest is life saving, not vehicle saving. Sounds like maybe one Cold Fire and one 10 lbs ABC dry chem, mounted securely in the bed would be a good setup? I have a roll-up tonneau and am about to install a pop n lock) to prevent theft, but honestly nobody has sever gone into the bed that I know of nad if the rare event that they were stolen that is ok I would just buy new ones I suppose.

 

Thanks for sharing this! I've been looking into these. I'll have to get the the 20 oz one and stash it in my driver door cup holder. Maybe when I get the funds I'll get a full size one too.

 

Clean and simple

 

Feeling exceptionally wordy tonight, so let me add some more info, observations & opinions.
Not being educated in fire fighting or rescue, these are more just logic.
We all know, we can't plan for everything, and getting off track a bit......In addition to being trapped in a vehicle on fire,
Laying driver's side down, on the bottom of a body of water, is another scenario, I've given some thought to.
Reminded of it again last year when a Rhode Island couple perished after driving a Tacoma thru a bridge railing in Boston.
I keep a "Res-Q-Me" secured to my Phone Mount, within reach, in any position, with my eyes closed. (Orange in Pic Below)
Firm tug releases it to expose a razor (in a slot) for seat belts and a spring loaded glass shatterer, in the other end.
Another $10-$15 Item worthy of a "Get One!".



Back on subject, Extinguishers
BTW: Not lecturing or trying to start controversy, just opinons

Thanks

10lb extinguisher is a bigass item to have floating around ur cab in a rollover, get that sucker tied down.
IIRC, a newborn coming home from the hospital in it's mother's arms, generates 600lbs forward thrust in a 30mph impact. (from a child's car seat ad)
The homemade quick release best be well engineered.
The Quick Release mentioned above (Post 149), tho pricey, withstands 27 G's. They make it for 2.5lb & 5.0 lb. extinguishers.
H3R Performance also makes a universal mounting plate, for the quick release, that is secured with ur seat mount bolts.
A 10lb extinguisher mounted in front of your seat will stay there, if your dashboard has infringed on your personal space.
Not to mention, if it breaks free, ur legs are at risk. 2.5lb extinguisher, not so much.
I would mount a 10lb, vertically to the back of the console or secured on the back hump behind it, still within reach.
I would also think it unwieldy in the cab, tho it would keep the flames at bay.
And if you have to completely discharge 10 lbs in ur cab, besides being in a world of shit, you best open a window, not to mention air bag powder.
Just food for thought. I hope you never need it.

After carrying and "USING" Big Box Store's extinguishers (Kidde, First Alert, etc.),
I've upgraded to refillable units with metal valves and hardware (preferably brass), Amerex, for example.
Tho I think some of the "Pro Versions" in those stores are refillable.
On the pros and cons list, I put my and my loved one's lives on one side and $$$ on the other, no brainer.

I have a 1-1/4lb HalGuard (assume same size as ur 20oz), that doesn't fit in front door pocket.
Mine's in the back door pocket, surrounded by some rawhide gloves, and still reachable from my driving position.
Tho packed in pretty snugly, I imagine I'd be searching for it on the ceiling if I ever get inverted.

But not within reach if trapped. I have a 5lb back there for the other guy's vehicle.



I hope none of us ever need 'em, but we don't get to pick when. Be prepared
If the other guy's truck is on fire, get your extinguisher out of your bed or wherever,
if your in a catastrophe and your whole world only extends to the end of your arms......................
Variation of old saying:
Fire Extinguishers are like Fire Arms and Parachutes, If you need one and don't have one,
You may never need one again.


CC

 

BC extinguisher with DIY aluminum mount and Quick Fist.