TORSPD: NEVR

God bless that Snap-On digital torque wrench. F*ck yeak that tool is awesome.

 

Prefer Hugger Orange but....

 

I will start packaging one up for you.

 

Good thing we used that locktite before it sell by date.

 

Stroke of luck there....

 

Here is what the lower oil pan spacer looks like. This one was modded by Grumpy years ago.





Damn near a necessity for those with the shallow oil pan.

 

What's the volume of oil you run?

 

Currently with the 4x4 pan and the oil cooler, I use 7. That pan with that spacer makes the capacity go to ~7. With the oil cooler it will be approximately 8. To top dot.

 

This is what my new version of this looks like.

 

@Torspd more info on spacer? And how will it benefit the rest of us? Should I look into it?

 

Holy shite.

I'm guessing its only necessary because you're stroked

 

I've always wondered, when torquing the heads, what's the sequence used for re-torqueing them so its not needed to put it through any heat cycles?

 

It is only available for the shallow oil pan. Which primarily comes on the XR, but has also been found on some PreRunner models. Compare your pan to this one in the picture. If they are the same design, I cannot stress how important it is.

No stroking going on in this one. Plain Jane over here.

These studs have been heat cycled before, as well as torqued. At these torque levels there won't be any more constructional stretching. Just elastic. Combined with that of the compression of the head gaskets.

I employ the method of torqing, then waiting a day and re-torqing. The second day is just at the same final torque spec as the first day.

To heat cycle the new studs, I get them to engine temp, in hot water. Carefully sealed in a bag. Heat and cool.

 

Heads re-torqued, cams installed and torqued, and timing set.

 

you like the stud cut. i couldnt figure out what was causing it to stick up higher. an like you when i went to put the solenoid in it hit. hence why it was cut down. also why do you put loctite on the studs? i thought they werent in water jackets?

 

Very strange indeed then, if you don't know either. The visible exterior of the hole is the same as the exhaust side's. Internally it is shallower.

The loctite will aid in stud rigidity. Prevent possible loosening due to heat cycling. Especially in higher hp applications. Considering what is going on with that cut stud's hole, it is parctically necessary since the stud wasn't able to sit as designed.

Prevents movement upon the re-torque. Is an added layer of insurance. Lastly, is knowledge shared by APR themselves, in their head stud installation preceedure. Shared among experienced builders.

Since the torqing takes place at the top of the stud, it helps to isolate that rotational force at the top and not along the stud. Which protects the block's threads.

Were it a bolt, then it would be oil on the threads.

 

True with my ls build I have bottom nose head studs that I can torque the stud down

 

ARP or A1 technology studs?

 

Arp

 

It is a better style all together. A1 had been making them like that for a long time. They are no longer though.

ARP eventually moved to that design as well kn some of there lines. Good stuff.

Mine are torqued down as well, but lightly. To make sure all of the studs are uniformly stressed prior to the clamping of force from the nut.