Big 3 Upgrade

Need relatively quick. Looking to upgrade the Big Three for my stereo install. Any chance someone has the lengths?

I want to make sure I account for the extra wire. I did a quick search so forgive me if I repost.

Thanks,

G3

 

Really guys, all the stereo upgrades and no one did this?

 

I never had any power issues to necessitate the upgrade; though I have plenty of 4awg to do it.

 

Yeah, I have yet to do it yet as I don't even have the amp in yet. I don't know that the truck will really need it though. I know I have the HO alternator so it wont be an issue.

 

what's a "big 3 upgrade?"...

 

Increasing the wiring points of the integral wires on the vehicle.

1) Battery to Frame
2) Alternator to Battery
3) Engine Block to Frame

 

oh cool..now i know..


Are there huge benefits/reasons to do this?

I've got 4awg wiring between my 2 amps/their grounds and to the distro block to my battery..

 

If you're headlights don't dim when your bass hits you probably dont need it. I wouldn't worry about it if you don't have a problem already.

 

Why not just install an inline capacitor? If its only happening with the "bass hits" this will solve the problem with you asking too much from your OEM electrical system.

 

I run three amps in my truck and have had zero issues. typically I do the Big 3 but havent seen a reason to do it on the truck.

 

capacitors are one of the most useless things ever.


I did the big 3 on my old car and a couple of my friend's rides. This is the tutorial i followed the first time:

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1

 

They are not useless at all. Any piece of electronics made today has capacitors for the same reason.

 

capacitors for car audio are useless.

 

Do you even know why people use them? You seem pretty sure but offer little reason to support your argument.

 

Ask any person that knows a decent amount about car audio if they would reccomend spending the money on a capacitor and probably 9 out of 10 would say they're useless. The only thing they're good for is if you want a voltmeter to watch the numbers go down from 14.4-10. If you're concerned about your electrical, just do the big 3.

 

That is still no reason to suspect them as being useless.

Do you know why "doing the big 3" can alleviate your problem?

HINT: It is the same reason that adding the correct capacitor will also help alleviate the problem.

 

Capacitors are not useless, but they aren't necessarily ideal. They will store charge so that when you have a sudden surge in power draw (as when the bass hits), they can momentarily accomodate. They will not provide increased current for sustained periods of time, so they're more of a stopgap if your electrical system is intermittently overwhelmed, as in when the bass line thumps; for sustained high draw, you need to upgrade - caps need to recharge.

However, "any piece of electronics" has capacitors because they're very useful in circuits - they are NOT used for the reason they're used in car audio. (Read up on what an RC circuit is for a basic introduction) An exception to this is the flash circuit in a camera.

All that being said, the 1+ farad capacitors in car audio scare the _crap_ out of me. If you charge one up and bridge it with _you_ by accident, OUCH!

For reference, typical capacitance in something you see on a circuit board is in microfarads!

 

caps aren't worth the money. When you hit a hard bass beat and draw power from the cap now the alternator is working to replenish the cap and power your system at the same time....it isnt nearly as effective as some companies will have you believe

the solution is the big 3 and you're done.

 

... Not worth the money? If, as a previous poster mentioned, you just need to cover an intermittent increase in power draw, a $20 cap is wayyyy cheaper (and can work just fine) vs a new alternator.

What are you talking about?

 

okay work at a car audio shop that does installs for 2 years and then bring me your argument. I'm just trying to help you guys out.