Hood Vibrating

Tacoma_Jake, very nice write up and pictures. Thanks for taking the time, how is it holding up? I was going to order the gun and 3M material this weekend and go at the fix. I have had my truck into the dealership twice for minor issues and they still keep telling me Toyota has no fix for this and after seeing some of the repairs in these post (done by various body shops) I would rather spend the money and do it my self the first time.

 

same for me. the $50 isn't worth arguing with the local toyota dealer and ending up with shoddy work and/or more scratches on the truck

 

It's holding up great, once it cures it's very firm. Doesn't seem like it's going anywhere.

I recently drove a 150 mile trip on I-95. The only vibrations I noticed when I got too close behind another car (at 70-80 mph), and they were very faint. Which I attribute to the flat hood design. My second gen Tacoma had a giant hood scoop so it never vibrated no matter what speed. That's the only thing I can compare it to.

I remember test driving the truck and noticed the hood jumping around a lot at 45-50 mph on just a regular road. At first I thought it was just the sun bouncing off a freshly painted/waxed hood. Once I drove it home I fully noticed the hood was vibrating pretty badly probably like most new Tacoma owners have.

After I did this repair, haven't noticed any 40-50 mph vibrations. Even on the interstate it's holding up great so long as I don't get to close to traffic.

Overall I'm satisfied with this repair vs fighting with Toyota and the dealerships to get it addressed.

 

Haven't seen hood vibration on my TRD-OR. Been through 3 high pressure car washes as well. Been looking for hood vibration, and just don't have it.

 

It's kind of mind blowing that Toyota doesn't have a fix for such an easy fixable problem.

 

Is your adhesive holding on your hood? Or is it failing in places?

 

Looks like it might be slightly separating in one place, but after 3 months does not seem to be getting worse and no vibration. Will keep an eye on it.

 

I am going to drive the TRD off road DC (V6, auto) that been waiting on today. Looked at it yesterday. Under hood looked better than any seen before. The adhesive is liberally applied oozing out from between panels, painted of course. No separation or crumbling. If it drives well w/o any vibration at 1900-2200 rpm, I plan on buying. MSRP is $36309 includes towing package, carpet mats and Tonneau cover. Out the door price ( includes doc fee of $629, 300 sales tax SC max and 65 tag transfer) is $33474. Sound like good price? Also, I get in writing that at my request the service dept will perform the factory auto trans fluid check procedure even if operating normally , allow me to witness and provide the invoice. Fair enough I feel.

 

Just made another 150 mile trip today, hood was completely covered with yellow pollen. As a result I could stare at it and notice any slight vibrations. Noticed no appreciable vibrations on the way back, solid as a rock so far!

 

I need to ask those who have done their own fix some questions. Did you first scrap off the bad adhesive or add it to the unstuck adhesive. If you removed the bad adhesive was it easy to remove. Did you apply the adhesive only in places where you saw the factory adhesive. I see places on mine where there is no factory adhesive that I can tell but wondering if I should apply adhesive at those locations also. How could you tell howmuch to apply. Any help would be appreciated because it looks like I might have to do this fix myself.

 

I cant believe its been 12 hrs and no one doing their own fix hasnt responded to my above question.

 

I did not remove the existing (bad Adhesive material) instead I went right around it.

I attempted to remove it, but it looked to be a huge pain the ass... lots of points on the hood are not really accessible especially with the hood on the truck.

As for how much NVH material I used, there is no precise measurement really. The gaps between the underside of the hood and supporting structure are fairly small. Run a bead that your confident fills the gap completely, use your finger to even out that bead/material flush with the support (which will force more material inside support) and let it cure. Mine looked like this.



Painted like this

 

Thx for the reply, Looks like you run some long beads even in places where their was no factory adhesive.

 

where did you buy your material

 

never mind i see it at bottom of yhis page

 

It doesn't really "foam up" if your thinking of something akin to insulation foam or something similar. It comes out just like a caulking tube with the exception of the nozzle/mixing applicator.

Your applicator automatically mixes your NVH material and its clear so you can visually see it coming filling up those chambers. You'll know when its close to the tip.
Watch this youtube video starting at 7:09, this is what it looks like.
https://youtu.be/W7IrxQtWYLw?t=429

Just remember if it starts to ooze out of the applicator too fast you can always press the release lever on your COX gun and remove that pressure from the NVH tube which will stop that. Also keep in mind it has a 60 min work time you have plenty of time to work with it. Take your time and don't rush it. Its gonna take 24 hours at 77 degrees to properly cure anyways. If your below that temp I was told by 3M techs to double that time. So its a weekend project for sure.

Also get something like a tarp or an old beach towel you can lay down over your engine in case you get any drips.

 

Maybe you should have used wood glue

 

Thanks for the info. Better to have more than not to haven enough though.

 

My hood is being replaced.

 

last thing I want is a new hood. I don't trust their body shop to get the blue paint matched perfect.