96 5vz xcab 4x4 TACO TURBO BUILD

Ahhh, I thought you were putting the pin whole restrictor on the block. There was a Mitsubishi Eclipse build where the guy did this and blew his turbo three times in about a year IIRC before the company stopped honoring the warranty. He started a rant thread and it blew up into a shit show. I'll have to find that thread, it was pretty funny.

 

Lol na dude, not the pin hole one. I wouldn't go smaller than 1/8" at the turbo for an oil cooled setup anyway. I just wanted to eliminate any possibility of oil bursting through the tiny aluminum walls of the oil cooler. Seriously though, I tested the oil pressure of my rear mount (brand new and dry at the time) oil feed line with the end in a Solo cup... I only cranked it enough to hear the starter crank two times without starting the engine and the Solo cup was almost half full. Our oil pressure is no joke

 

Ok, I see what you're saying

 

Oil pressure no joke? Hahah. When I was getting a nasty noise from my turbo I thought it wasn't getting oil. So I removed the feed line and put a tupperware underneath to catch the oil. Started her up, then ran to the engine bay to observe the oil flow. Found it like a garden hose on full blast soaking from the underside of the hood down. Oh, and a rather large section of the garage wall from the ceiling down. Oops. Lol. A freaking garden hose!

 

Up and running. Here are a few pics:







There are still a few little things to clean up, like my hack PCV blue hose job, and the coupler from the compressor outlet where I got a little hasty with the knife and it doesn't quite fit right. Since the pics were taken I've added a turbo blanket to help contain the heat and protect the A/C lines.

Overall it runs pretty well at 6-7psi, but I get some pinging in closed loop. In open loop with the "Free FMU" it runs 10.8-11.4:1 all the way to redline, so the stock fuel system seems to be up to the task.

I've ordered the Split Second Enricher to hopefully correct the closed loop fueling, but I'm starting to think that it may be a timing issue too. I know the ECU doesn't read the knock sensors below ~3100RPM, and it seems to ping the worst when I boot it in 2nd and 3rd at ~2000RPM. Full boost happens around 2500, and the ECU doesn't seem to pull enough timing. In open loop in the upper gears it runs ~6°BTDC and pulls clean, but between 2000 and 3000RPM in the lower gears it stays in the mid teens and pings, even though A/F drops to 11:1.

I have an open cone filter under the hood, which I originally considered a stopgap since I can't find one that fits in the fender, but it may help since the ECU seems to pull more timing when the intake air temps go up. It sure seems like I'm headed down the piggy-back on a piggy-back route here. Shit.

 

Nice man! Big difference over stock. Is that a recirculating BOV? I run the fic6, works but not perfect. Great to see what you did.

 

Yep, BOV recirculates. It still stalls if I try to go from full boost to idle, like pushing the clutch at high revs/boost and expecting the ECU to figure it out, but in normal driving it shouldn't be a problem.

Air mass reading before turbo was 118g/s max, the highest I've seen after turbo is 168g/s, but there's probably more in it. That loosely suggests a ~65hp increase. The cool part is that the old 118g/s rate came at full throttle at redline. Now I can surpass that number at 70mph in 5th gear on the freeway. Passing power is fxxxin awesome!

 

So what is the consensus on the restrictor thing? How should the oil feed line be set up?

 

I run a -3AN from the port next to the filter into the banjo fitting you see at the top of the turbo. I checked for flow with the line in a soda bottle. I had about an ounce in the bottle when the engine fired up, but the pressure didn't look super high- it wasn't shooting out like a firehose, just nice steady flow. While this is just anecdotal, I think a setup like this is pretty ideal for an oil cooled journal bearing turbo. If you run a BB I'd follow the turbo manufacturer's specs on a restrictor.

Obviously the oil drain is just as important, you don't want any bottlenecks downstream that allow oil to collect in the CHRA.

 

I run off of an oil filter plate to feed. No problems. I think you can tap the engine somewhere too. Got my restrictor from cx racing. It's like a 1/16 hole or so. I run a bb turbo, but I'm pretty sure every turbo needs a restrictor.

Any ideas Gio on my speedometer issue?

 

NICE!!! A couple things though and please know that I'm not trying to be a douche...
1) Ditch the BOV until you get a proper intercooler setup (I hope and pray that it's on your near future to-do list). The volume of air that you are trying to relieve with that setup is so insignificant that I'd be willing to bet that you couldn't get that turbo to get the giggles like the rest of ours does going from WOT to idle (turbo flutter). I promise you that your BOV isn't helping anything the way it is now.
2) You're darn right it's a timing issue. 6+PSI closed loop boost at 15+ AFR and unregistered intake temps approaching 200f (because of lack of intercooler and air temp sensor pre-turbo) can and will destroy your engine. I suggest getting used to the fact that you cannot go into boost at all whatsoever unless it's full blown WOT and open loop at 2500+ RPM.
3) You need to reverse that oil catch can setup you have going on there. Clean and unboosted air goes into the back hose (the one that you have connected to the blue hose) as an input source, and the pressure from within your crank case is relieved through the PCV valve (right under your BOV). The hose from the PCV valve goes into the input of the catch can and the output of the catch can goes into your pre-turbo intake. right now when you boost, your crank case has nowhere to relieve the pressure since it's a one-way system.
I'm glad you have boost, but please take it easy until you perfect that setup. It would break my heart to see another 5VZ in the graveyard.

 

What's up with your speedo?
EDIT: oh just glanced over your thread... shoot IDK brother
I'm not sure where the speed sensor is that actually determines the speed, but maybe you fried that sensor/unit. IIRC it's a little tiny box connected to the tranny somewhere

 

No douchery problems here. I'm a big boy, I can handle a little constructive criticism Currently I've backed the preload way off on the WG actuator to slow the spool, and I'm certainly driving it gently in that 2000-3000 zone.

1) The BOV stays. The valve design itself is a side project that's currently in the hands of the US Patent Office. While I agree that it isn't needed to protect the turbo at 6psi, a recirc valve does help transient throttle response since it's open under vacuum. The intake air can bypass the slow moving compressor for better throttle response in vacuum. I think you're onto something on the intercooler though.

2) I'm trying to decide between a FMIC and water/meth injection. The "advantage" of the front mount is that it will add more lag and allow the ECU a chance to pull some timing. The MAF will see high flow, but there will be a small delay in that flow reaching the TB. Not to mention the benefits of cooler charge air. The water/meth would be wholly responsible for controlling detonation in the quick spooling setup I have now. I've used it on two other cars in the past with ERL Aquamist systems and WW fluid. It's very effective, but it is more to go wrong, and I'd be completely dependent on it. Do you think a FMIC would be effective to fix the timing ping at 6psi?

3) School me on this PCV thing- this system is more complicated than the boosted 4-bangers I've had. The blue line and catch can only see vaccuum/ambient air, just like the stock intake system does. I also installed a check valve in the other PCV line on the front of the intake mani, so no boost gets into the crank case that way. I understand that hooking it up with the vac and catch can system on the "front" PCV would cause it to "flow" the other way than I have it now. Is that what needs to happen?

A couple more:

Has anyone tried reducing the diameter of the MAF tube? Would this push the ECU higher into the VE table and cause it to pull some timing? Where is the flow ceiling of the stock MAF? I know if I peg that signal I'm flying blind...

The IAT sensor is in the MAF, but does it supply an independent signal? Can it be fooled into reporting a higher temp to help pull timing? Does anyone have a Split Second TMC1.1 for sale?

This timing thing is a fucking mess. The one time when you need something to go Full Retard...

 

Ah I see. That's actually a really good idea to bypass the turbo for better low RPM air flow. I've heard of that for SCs, but not turbos. I would do both intercooler and meth injection, but definitely get one or the other installed ASAP. FMIC will reduce or potentially eliminate your low RPM open loop ping, and methanol injection will reduce or potentially eliminate your closed loop part throttle boost ping/lean-out as well as the former issue. If it's strictly one or the other, then definitely go with meth injection.
I would not recommend altering the MAF or its signal. The issue is high intake temps and leaning out under closed loop boost, not your MAF. Meth injection will eliminate both of those issues AND increase your HP. You really don't need any other piggy backs at all if you have a nicely tuned meth kit.
The PCV and catch can is simple. The rear line is the intake and the PCV valve is the out. It goes air filter>rear vac line into rear crank input>(crank case)>PCV>catch can>either back into intake or capped off with a tiny 3/8" filter.

"The one time when you need something to go full retard"
^ dude this just made my day
Get a meth kit and most of your issues will go away

 

Yeah, to piggy back on the PCV system. The rear vent that the catch can is connected to via the blue line is your fresh air intake. The PCV valve located on the front of your block is already a check valve so no boost will pass through it, but when you are boosting, the crank pressure has to fight the boost pressure to escape the PCV valve.

The way you have it is ok but not opportune because while the crank pressure has a way to vent, it doesn't have a fresh air source. I don't know how important that tbh but I guess Toyota thought it was needed

To maintain stock PCV operation, remove the blue hose on the rear vent and connect it to the PCV valve (forward middle valve on the block). For the rear vent, the easiest thing to do is put a small breather filter on it and a check valve that only allows air to flow into the valve. In the end you will have a PCV valve that is already a check valve that lets air escape only and a rear vent with a check valve that allows fresh air to enter the block only.

Make sense?

 

Thanks for the info on the PCV system. I'll reroute it.

I highly recommend the Split Second Enricher. I installed it today and it made a big difference. The A/F ratio drops to ~12.0 under boost in closed loop. Really simple, and it nearly cured my pinging. Here's an exceptionally bad video showing ~50% throttle. You can see the A/F drop in boost.

https://onedrive.live.com/embed?cid=3AC995D3D98C7193&resid=3AC995D3D98C7193!71144&authkey=ALeOUxPl2-BJQ4Q

I think adding a FMIC will solve the last of my ping issue. That's the next step.

Thanks for everyone's help.

 

Nice!!!! Yes sir, a FMIC is all you need now. Glad that the enricher took care of that closed loop leaning. You have more room to easily fit an intercooler than any of us do, so it shouldn't take long at all to set it all up. Look real good and you can find everything for under $200.

 

Not sure how the split second enricher works but I don't think it's a long term solution. The stock ECU will always trim for a 14.7 AFR so unless the enricher alters the O2 sensor readings to the ECU, any additional fuel added will at first work, but will eventually be trimmed out by the ECU.

 

I'm sure it fools the ECU with O2 reading alterations based on MAP readings instead of simply compensating for the lean condition.