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Nate's build

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by Nate87, Oct 2, 2014.

  1. Feb 24, 2016 at 7:33 AM
    #421
    Nate87

    Nate87 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Haven't noticed any ill effects from El Nino rains we've been having. Have taken it snow wheeling a few times and done plenty of high water crossings. I'll see if if can find the publication reference that says it's okay with water as long as it's not on when submerged. And by on it means actually pumping and then switched on with the fans running but not pumping. So as long as it's off, you should be good. I have thought about possibly relocating the breathers and extending them upwards. Might not be necessary.
    Thanks man! Your truck is my all time favorite on TW! Very well thought out and put together. Can't wait to see what you have in store next.
     
    Acerwin[QUOTED] likes this.
  2. Feb 24, 2016 at 9:02 AM
    #422
    SixthSnail

    SixthSnail I have no idea what I'm doing

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    That is the cleanest install of an AOB system I've ever seen.
     
  3. Feb 24, 2016 at 9:26 AM
    #423
    Iggy

    Iggy Vagabond Outdoors

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    Looking good @Nate87!!

    I considered using that space too when you sent me a pic. What I like the most about your build is you keep most of your space available, in the bed or in the cab.

    Man I'm super jealous of the Sanden AC compressor. I've wanted to that so bad but don't want to mess with everything that goes into it. Maybe you can push me in the right direction ;)

    A quick questions, how is the compressor filling the 5gal tank, and then keeping it topped off? I'm thinking about going larger with mine (I have a 1gal), but I don't want the compressor to be running all the time.
     
  4. Feb 24, 2016 at 9:41 AM
    #424
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    Nate, Congrats on the install! :) Super job on the writeup, best I've seen yet. I don't think you'll have any issues with water.

    A couple question for you....
    1. Does the leader hose from ARB have a check valve in it? I couldn't tell from the specs whether it did or not.
    2. Where did you mount your switch for the compressor?

    Don't know if you've seen this post before:

    Belt Driven Air Compressor a.k.a. Unlimited On-Board Air <---As far as I know, it's the only Tacoma in existence with a belt driven compressor.

    I'm going to be hard mounting mine soon.

    Thanks
     
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  5. Feb 24, 2016 at 1:55 PM
    #425
    Nate87

    Nate87 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks bro! Proper prior planning prevents a piss poor performance. Spent lots of time figuring out where to mount it all. Considered in the cab, wheel wells and under hood but this suited me best. I hope it holds up to the test of time

    Thanks again! I try to keep the space available and out the way. I don't want things clashing either in the cab or bed since I always have crap in both.

    We'll get there eventually with the Sandens. I want to draw some brackets up on a 3D file and possibly make a kit for Tacomas if there is interest.

    The compressor takes just over 2 minutes to top off the 5 gallon tank. I've ran that thing constantly for over 10 minutes filling other trucks tires. 35's and 33's on a few different rigs. Compressor did great. Only thing was with the relay it was running it through. Got a little to hot for my liking so that's going to be upped to an Air Zenith 80amp relay. It keeps it topped off easily. While airing up I don't see the tank pressure drop below 60. I'll double check next time though.

    Thanks Crom!
    1: I don't know but want to say no. I'm sure I was messing around at one point and blew through the hose and don't remember any instructions saying to install it a certain way.

    2: The compressor switch is mounted overhead in the switch panel. There's the compressor and air locker switch up there. For now it's the factory ARB switch till it gets swapped out with one from OTRATTW. I also want to try and rewire the switches a bit. Right now the air locker is dependent on the compressor being on. I want to be able to turn the locker on even when compressor is off(fan not spinning) in case there is a time when I need to be locked but don't want compressor running. I don't know. Might not be with the trouble.

    I have seen that thread! There's that one and this one https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-belt-driven-air-saga.290646/

    I used them as a reference along with other write ups online. It'll get there eventually. And I can't wait to see what you come up with for hard mounting.
     
    Crom[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Feb 24, 2016 at 3:36 PM
    #426
    velillen

    velillen Well-Known Member

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    If i remember correctly (and i am going off memory here) the if you follow the ARB wiring for the lockers and compressor all they do is have a power wire that goes from the Compressor switch to the compressor for turning it on/off. Then they tied into that same power wire and run it to the "Locker #1" switch power in spot on the switch. Then they use a different wire to run from "Locker #1" switch to the solenoid on the compressor. Then that same wire going from Locker #1 is tapped into and ran to the "in" on Locker #2 switch. Finally another wire is ran to solenoid #2.

    So all you should have to do is find a power wire you want to use (direct hookup/on with ignition/ect) and run it to each Locker switch and plug it in on the "power in" connection.




    Now for my questions! Im thinking Im going to redo my electrical and actually plan to sort of copy you in your location (access cab back wall). Just curious how you mounted everything there? Just to some 1/8" wood and screwed the wood through the cab?
     
  7. Feb 24, 2016 at 4:02 PM
    #427
    Nate87

    Nate87 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    You are correct on the wiring. The first locker is dependent on compressor switch being on and second locker dependent on first locker being on. If all are on and compressor is turned off they all turn off. I know it wouldn't be hard to do. Just don't know if it's worth the time for a situation that I may never encounter.

    As for the rear panels, right now they are still some thin wood sheet. Maybe 1/8" like you said. I just put some industrial strength Velcro on the back side of the wood and the rear of the cab. I also cut the panels to size so it sort of needs to be pressed in and has a really snug fit even without the Velcro. Those things aren't going anywhere! No drilling to mount the panels. The entire layout of the panels were thought out so there wasn't any clearance issues with the rear interior panel. Some cuts needed to be made here and there. Things moved to fit the contour and shape of rear interior panel.
    I've since purchased a sheet of ABS plastic to replace the wood at a later time. A 24x24 3/16" of ABS sheet I got online. There are different sizes and thickness depending on what you need.
     
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  8. Feb 24, 2016 at 4:17 PM
    #428
    velillen

    velillen Well-Known Member

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    Id say its worth wiring them up since it would just be one additional wire to run. Be nice to be able to lock without having to have the compressor on. The way ARB has it wired is great for those without a tank but when running a tank I think it limits a bit.

    And good idea on the ABS. Hadnt thought of that. Im not to worried on space since I got rid of the back paneling and jump seats. never used them in 5 years and I'd rather have the extra room. Right now I just have a 3/4" mdf "wall" so shouldnt be to hard to redo that and extend it out an inch or two to make room for the fuse box and everything. I just need to decide how i want to make an access panel to it too
     
  9. Feb 27, 2016 at 10:09 AM
    #429
    Shmellmopwho

    Shmellmopwho Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Hey do you have extended brake lines in the rear?
     
  10. Feb 27, 2016 at 10:16 AM
    #430
    Nate87

    Nate87 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yup. The lines are from AllPro front and rear. They are a good fit.
     
  11. Feb 27, 2016 at 10:18 AM
    #431
    Shmellmopwho

    Shmellmopwho Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Okay cool! Probably wouldn't be a good idea to flex out my rear without the extended brake lines huh?
     
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  12. Feb 27, 2016 at 10:21 AM
    #432
    Nate87

    Nate87 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The socks were REALLY tight at droop. They might tear and with your rear BAMF I would assume you are also getting more down travel. You can get away with them on the road till you can get them swapped out.
     
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  13. Feb 27, 2016 at 10:30 AM
    #433
    Shmellmopwho

    Shmellmopwho Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Sounds good man. I'll order them right now. I have them for the front when I throw the LT on but I need them for the rear now too. Thanks
     
  14. Feb 27, 2016 at 11:58 PM
    #434
    dakotasyota

    dakotasyota Just a Fringe of the Ging in your Minge

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    Total Chaos +2 LT w/ 2.5 x 8 Kings, 700 lb coils, Chevy 63s, BAMF Shock relocation, 12" King Smoothies, Locker Anytime Mod, 5% Tint All Around, 4xInnovations full skids, Custom Made Rock Sliders, 4xInnovations HC Rear Bumper w/ Tire Carrier, SOS Original Plate 2 Front Bumper, 130 w KC Slimlites, Homertaco Raptor Grill, Bestop Supertop, Smittybilt 9500 lb winch, Flowmaster 40 series, JVC deck w/ 12" Rockford Fosgate T1 in custom box, and lots more!!
    #Legend
     
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  15. Feb 28, 2016 at 11:24 AM
    #435
    Nate87

    Nate87 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    HA! Far from it!
     
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  16. Mar 3, 2016 at 12:10 AM
    #436
    Nate87

    Nate87 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Update on the OBA install:
    I've since used it on many wheeling trips, a few camping trips and for daily use airing off after the beach, running air tools while working on the truck ect. It runs like a champ. It's ran for over 10 minutes constantly and keeps going! I've since drained and filled the tank dozens of times and recently decided to try and drain the tank of any accumulated condensation via the bottom facing drain cock. At full tank pressure I unscrewed it expecting for mist to blow out the plug but to my surprise got absolutely NOTHING! That in line water separator has been doing its job quite well. One of the best examples was on a few recent snow wheeling trips. I went to drain the water trap and had all sorts of water in there get blown out.

    The only thing that I don't like right now is the 60Amp relay I have it running through. It gets pretty damn hot. More than what I'm comfortable with so it's getting replaced with an 80Amp AirZenith relay.

    Here are the comparisons between the AccuAir and Legris fittings. The AccuAir seem to be higher quality and have DOT rated markings but the Legris fittings have larger openings and seem to flow better and cost less. So far both have held up with no leaks.
    AccuAir on the left brass fitting. Legris on the right is Nickel plated brass fitting.
    Both are straight 3/8" airline fittings with male 1/4"NPT end


    Through Legris


    Through AccuAir


    Legris


    AccuAir


    On a sidenote about the different fittings, I also have 90 degree fittings of both and the Legris fittings swivel so you can clock the direction where you desire but the AccuAir ones don't. I had to clock those by tightening or loosening the fittings to get desired orientation. Legris was easier to work with in that respect with the 90 degree fittings. Neither leaks. Just an FYI.

    Now it was time to run a pressure gauge to monitor tank air pressure. Not really needed since I know the compressor shutoff is at 150 and kicks in at 135. BUT, after doing the twin sticks I now have a useless 4x4 dial switch in the dash and that seems like the perfect spot for a gauge. So this empty slot


    Led to this chaos that was recently posted


    Being the perfectionist I am meant the air line needed to be ran hidden and under everything. This also gave me the opportunity to clean up about a gallon of water spilt recently that hadn't evaporated out of the carpet.

    Went with the Viair 2" single needle 220psi gauge part number 90090
    It came with a chrome/shiny bezel which looked out of place inside the truck so it had to get painted. Taped off


    Viair 90090


    How it turned out




    Put that aside and got to running the tiny 1/8" DOT airline. Also cleaned up the swamp I had going on under the carpet. Carpet has a plastic layer on the bottom so water couldn't seep through and evaporate. Had to scrub out some rust that formed. Not really from just the water because 1/2 gallon was spilled on passenger and 1/2 on driver but only the passenger had rust. It was from when I did the Crawler box and twin stick installs. Metal shavings from drilling the holes gathered then rusted with the water.


    Once that was done I used one of these T fittings to tap the 1/8" pressure gauge airline into. Went with a push to connect fitting for the 1/8" line as well.


    Tapped in along the frame rail a little forward of where the cab and bed meet




    Ran the line through rear of cab grommet and under the door sill with the other electrical in the sheath as much as possible.




    Crossed over through that seat rail channel


    Put a 90 degree fitting on the back side of gauge. One thing I didn't get a photo of was the backlight of the gauge. It's a small bulb that goes into that circular hole above the fitting. It was tapped into the light for the automatic shifter to have it work with the dimmer switch.


    Took off the plastic silver bezel from the factory 4x4 switch and cut it to fit the gauge with a Dremel. Used double sided sticky tape around the gauge to fill the gaps between it and the hole in the dash.


    And finished!








    Okay, I'm not too proud of this next part. It looks okay but not up the my typical standards of what's acceptable for an install. I had been up for about 40 hours straight at this point and pulled 2 all nighters getting things done for an upcoming wheeling trip. Anyways, I wanted to mount an external speaker for the CB radio somewhere because the CB was mounted in the center console and muffled the sound. Install on that later. I liked this location. Inspiration from @barlowrs who is one of my all time favorite builds.
    Drivers side of center console. Taped it out.


    Cut less than needed and went a little more at a time with Dremel and hand file


    About how and where I wanted it


    So this is where I did something out of character. I wanted a clean and flush install but didn't have epoxy, JB weld or anything to keep the speaker in place. I was super tired by this point and just wanted to finish so I went ahead and found a solution that required drilling. Drilled some extra angle aluminum bar into the speaker body then used that to drill and mount through the console.


    This is how I came out. Not a fan of the screws.




    Ohh well. It's not TOO bad I guess and it works exactly how I wanted. Pretty damn loud for that little speaker.
     
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  17. Mar 3, 2016 at 12:30 AM
    #437
    NorthwestCruiser

    NorthwestCruiser Well-Known Member

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    All I can say is wow :drool: Glad its all working out! Did you not want to dynamat the cab or anything while you had the interior all torn apart? Or is that plans in the future?
     
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  18. Mar 3, 2016 at 12:40 AM
    #438
    Nate87

    Nate87 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It'll get done eventually. Honestly, it doesn't take much to remove all the interior. I've done it many times before this and even a few times after. Not that much to it. I do want to mat and possibly foam the rest of the truck one day but am not sure how much of a difference it'll make and if it's worth it. Access cabs seem to be louder than double cabs because of that cabin equalization vent in the back. Then add the 35" mud tires and roof rack. It might be a loosing battle. Road noise has it's perks though :rofl:
     
  19. Mar 3, 2016 at 2:04 AM
    #439
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    Nate, great posts! Everything looks beautiful. Which model Accuair water trap are you using? I'm strongly considering one. Thanks

    ROFL!!! I think the double cabs have the same or similar vent in the cab... I just finished treating all my doors and roof for sound proofing and it's helped cut the truck noise down quite a bit. I'm skipping the floors for now, but maybe one day in the future. I ever do it, it'll be a night install like you. :)
     
  20. Mar 3, 2016 at 3:20 AM
    #440
    Acerwin

    Acerwin The unNORM NORM

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    Sick. Just keeps getting better and better
     
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