PrInSu Design Studio Roof Racks BS Thread

Just depends on you. Depending on order volume that lead time may not change.

 

You should really look at different brands of racks acc's that you can use with the t-slots. The only way to make round cross bar acc's work is to use round cross bars in place of the extruded cross bars just in the two locations that you need you acc's. You can do it, I played with it and all you have to do is buy a few of these rubber expansion plugs to match the ID of your round cross bar. Simply cut your round cross bar to fit inside the Prinu side rails, insert the rubber expansion plug, insert the cross bar and run the bolt through.

 

@Evenflow do you have a some photos of this setup in use? The more detail, the better.

 

No sorry but it is super simple. Just cut your round cross bar to fit perfectly inside the Prinsu rails and insert the expansion plug into the end of the cross bar the plug basically serves as a nut inside the cross bar. Line up the round cross bar with one of the Prinsu slots and run a bolt into expansion plug nut through the Prinsu side rail.

Here is a diagram of how an expansion plug works, the thumb screw is where you would run a bolt through the expansion plug.

 

Ahhhh, that makes sense. Width might be an issue with two canoes. Think you'll need to extend the round bars out several inches on either side of the rack.

 

Thanks Evenflow,
I'm gonna have to see the rack and go from there. The Yakima crossbars I plan on using will be about 68" wide. Much wider than the Prinsu cabrac.

 

Not mine but this is what I am going to play with to add limb risers.
@geekhouse23

 

http://axiaalloys.com/Universal-Mou...m-Bolt-Perpendicular-To-Bar-Satin-Clear-Black

Some of these would work great to mount round yakima bars to the top of the rectangular prinsu bars. Just bolt it into the tslot and clamp it around the round bar.

 

Sweet. Bookmarked.

 

Thanks Zach.

 

How has this held up? I've been looking for tracks but it's pretty dang hard

 

Is there a good source for tslots hardware? I would try ACE but I image tslots is pretty specific.
My scrap pile of stuff in my workshop wont fit some of the gear I have. rotopax mounts, treds etc

looking at the how to thread now, but wasn't sure if anyone had luck with finding a place to get your hands on some

 

I just used 5/16" carriage bolts

 

Alrighty, got my CABRAC and TOPRAC installed over the weekend and it looks and performs just as sexy as I was hoping. I'd like to toss out a couple of things about the install though, just so other people can learn from my pratfalls. First of all, cutting the holes in the drip molding/weather stripping on the cab was a challenge. I used a spade bit and just stepped on the sections adjacent to the hole I was cutting and it was difficult getting a clean cut. In the how-to it looks like Zach made a channel to keep everything in place which, and if it's an option, I recommend doing so as well. Also, if you have a hole saw bit that might be a better option to make the cut since I had difficulty removing all of the rubberized plastic material cleanly and had to clean it up with a utility blade. Not a deal breaker, just something that will speed things up and make a cleaner cut if you have the choice.

Next up, I have a Leer 100XR topper for my short bed that has maybe 0.2-0.25" of fiberglass on the external shell. I ordered Yakima 54" tracks which were still too long so I had to grind off about 6" to make them practical. When I drilled through the topper's surface shell(easy peasy) and inserted the plusnuts that came with the

$179 YAKIMA - Tracks with PlusNuts, Low Profile Track for Rooftop Car Rack System, 54"

Yakima rack, the plusnuts only fit about half way in, requiring me to drill past whatever the next internal layer of material was that existed after an air gap and puncture the carpeted ceiling just to fit the plusnuts in. The next issue was that the plusnuts expand at the very top, rather than starting at the bottom, and anchor themselves by expanding into the max .25" fiberglass surface shell. I would have preferred a solution that tightened down by squeezing the crown above the top of the topper surface shell with the bottom of it. I still might see if I can find another plusnut "blind rivet" solution or might just anchor through the inside ceiling of the topper. I don't think the cargo nets on the ceiling of toppers look very useful but if I do this I'm probably going to try and put eye nuts in there just to have the option of having a net to keep my snowboard jacket, or other clothing, high, dry and away from my cargo. TL;DR - the thickness of the exterior surface fiberglass on the Leer 100XR makes it a challenge to get a good anchor with the plusnuts that came with Yakima tracks.

Last thing, I ordered the wind deflector with the 30" cutout just in case I get a chance to do some mountain bike camping in remote locations. Through a couple of particularly windy Denver days I haven't noticed any dramatic increase in wind noise. I didn't notice it at 80mph, and I didn't notice it with a side wind strong enough to generate the dreaded mirror/windshield/godknowswhatsource whistle hum.

All in all though, the Prinsu racks are the coolest thing I've seen on a Taco. They are super sturdy and will easily support a jon boat or hobie that I'm looking to get this summer, and every off road junkie in a jeep or fj has been giving me the eye when I drive by them.

 

^^^I second the weatherstripping install issues.

Props to @zscott and others with a clean install, I sadly had to manhandle mine and cut and hack and just never got it as clean.
I suggest a forstner bit and use the jig that Zach also used, so much easier in retrospect.

Also had 0 amounts of noise with/without the included bulb weatherstrip for the fairing.

 

What size bit is needed? I just ordered my Prinsu so all the tips are very helpful!

 

3/4"

 

I had a 3/4 inch hole saw with pilot bit, which is at least what size he recommended. it definitely takes some time to get right and measure about 6 times.
[my weatherstripping kept flexing and stretching so even after measuring 3 times the hole never lined up, so I will just silicone seal them back down if they have a slight rise]
I would definitely follow his instructions to a T, which he has posted online.

 

I currently have dealer installed factory racks which I will need to remove once I receive my Prinsu. I am assuming I have no weather stripping underneath the factory racks. I asked Zach if the weather stripping is necessary and if I would need to order some. He said it is not necessary. I plan to install without it, using the same silicone/sealant process shown in the directions. Just stating this in case anyone doesn't want the hassle of drilling the stripping.

 

Finally finished painting and install today at lunch. Very pleased. Thanks Zach!