Mid Travel BS 2.0

I think I got like 5.5" or 5 3/8" of shaft showing on mine. Used to be 6 but since I changed out shocks it took up more shaft since the heights slightly changed.

The shock specs should be stamped on the bottom of the shock body cap BTW.

I have been eyeing the 12" BAMF relocate for a while but I'm not sure if you will need A. A different leaf pack, and B. That would require an eyelet conversion and a 12" shaft as well as shock body conversion for me and longer brake lines, so it's more work than I am willing to put into the rear for now.

Oh yeah I forgot about that. Lol. I'm not sure if it's a loaded rubber bushing as well.

 

So 5150s then?

 

And they are about 500 dollars cheaper haha

 

Ha thanks. I have no valving experience yet though nor any shock variety.

Looks like jberry helped you out though

 

Guys running OE replacement Kings on first gens... What spring rate are you running?

 

http://www.crawlpedia.com/shock_valving.htm

Gives you a general idea

 

Anyone else have this problem?

 

I haven't seen that before, but its most likely because they changed the way the resi mounts. Now its vertical versus mine is horizontal, yours brings the hose up more. Maybe the DK uppers are bigger than other aftermarket UCA's causing the rubbing?

 

I was thinking the same thing.

In the mean time I wrapped the hoses with abrasion sleeving.

 

Move your resi's closer to the shock, like slide em in the mounts, so the hose has a steeper angle

 

He has the new vertical style so he can't

 

I need some of that sleeving still for my battery power cable. Lol.

 

Ohhhhhhh I gotcha....shitty

 

i know there are some alignment gurus out there (paging @jberry813 )

My cam bolts are frozen therefore camber/caster couldnt be changed. but i have plenty of caster anyways and only my passenger front camber is out of "spec". Is this alright so long as rotations are done on time? or should i get it fixed? the truck seems to have decent road manners with it as-is. Just trying to avoid cutting the cam bolts and getting new bushings or buying new arms at the current moment.

Driver:
Camber +0.4 (within oem specs)
Caster +4.2
Toe +0.03

Passenger:
Camber -0.7 (out of spec)
Caster +4.5
Toe +0.04

 

Point taken. Guess ill start looking for the fixings. Thanks

 

Not to mention you'll be drifting as you drive down the road most likely. The frozen cam bolts are not too difficult to deal with. Spray plenty of PBlaster or similar in there to try and have it set in and all you really have to do is either take an air hammer or a regular hammer with a punch or chisel to the cam bolts no matter how frozen.

I'd rather see you at zero or on the negative spectrum on the camber portion of your alignment. Regardless, you need to do some work to rectify the issue.

One thing which intrigues me is why do you have as much caster as you do, and are still very positive on the camber on your driver side? Something doesn't seem right there, bent frame possibly? Your tires look like this if you are sitting in the drivers seat.

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