Oil Filter 2016 tacoma v6

Does the 2016 have a gasket on the drain plug? I didn't see one when I took it off, didn't see it in the oil, but I have them. To use or not to use?

 

My drain plug has a flat aluminum gasket.

 

I would think that it is encapsulated by some other surface, or else what is there to force the oil through the filter? You need to have a sealed system (for the filtration to work) for the oil to pass through the media vs around it, which is what would happen. I mean, what would force the oil through the filter if there is a gap at the end (hence around it)?

 

Toyota going old school. Mercedes-Benz and most other makes had the canister oil filter from the 1930's up to the 1970's. IIRC from having a '61, '65, and '68 Mercedes it didn't have all the O-rings. They had the one rubber O-ring at the top mating surface to the block, the canister was centered into the molded aluminum filter housing.

 

There should be one, make sure it's not stuck to the pan before you put a new one on.

 

I found it. Had to get out a flash light. It was on the bottom of the pan, it was so stuck to the pan that I thought it was part of it. Oil change, complete. Did it (unnecessarily) at 1000 miles. I've seen some crap in filters/oil during break in on other vehicles previously, so I wanted to be on the safe side.

I can also say I hate 0W-20. Comes out of the pan so easily it splashes everywhere. Including into my face/eye. Fun times...

 

Did you see much metal in the drain pan? I changed mine at about 2500 and saw a few pieces. I did not see any metal flakes in the filter though. Others are posting pictures with, what I would consider, a significant amount. I know it is normal for a new engine....just curious.

 

Excellent. Won't help on the oil pan. But try a 5/8" ID hose or tubing on the oil filter drain pipe and run it to your drain pan before you insert. Should help with the splash.

 

thanks for the video

 

Get used to thin oil. Mazda is coming out with 0W16 and Shell is coming out with 0W8. I guess we will soon see a 0W0 if I had to guess

 

Torque them the first time to get a "feel" for how tight, then just guess after that.

 

Trying to understand this...
You must remove the plug and insert the drain pipe which depresses the spring and allows the oil to flow?
So no oil comes out when simply removing the plug, correct?

Where to buy this plug? Does it come with each new filter?

 

Ps save your o rings.You never know...

 

Yes, remove the oil drain plug from the oil filter cap and nothing will come out at that time. When you insert the temporary plastic drain pipe into the spot where the oil filter plug was oil will start to flow. Use some 5/8" ID tubing on the plastic drain pipe and route it to your pan to keep it clean. The oil filter cap and oil filter drain plug are permanent. You replace the filter cartridge and 2 o-rings (one for the cap and one for the plug) each time you change the filter and throw away the plastic drain pipe. The filter element kit comes with a cartridge, 2 o-rings, and the plastic drain pipe and instructions are on the box. There's lots of DIYs and videos for this on 4runners, Highlanders and other Toyota's if you look around. Here's an example . Just be aware that there are some slight part # differences between some vehicles.

Here's another link for your reference. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-diy-maintenance-quick-reference.406712/

 

Thanks a lot for confirming the details. Never dealt with this setup before and would rather make sure I get it right than have oil everywhere and be missing needed parts.

 

Another thing I forgot to mention. When you move the filter drain plug, make sure the o-ring stays in place on the cap. It will seal around the plastic drain pipe to make it all flow out your tubing. When you take off the drain pipe, then the o-ring should come with it.

 

Ditto!

 

Just completed my first oil change on a '16 Tacoma TRD Sport. What evil genius created this filter system. A couple of notes that others might find helpful. 1) You're probably going to get messy. The filter change isn't exactly clean. Two oil catch pans helps. 2) The OEM O-rings are black, and it takes a bit to actually locate them (esp on first time). Big one on the outside of the canister, the smaller one on the canister drain on the bottom. 3) Get the canister wrench. It's worth it. 4) The canister drain plug may be tight. When you try to loosen it, you may find the whole canister turning (the canister wasn't that tight, but the plug was tighter). 5) From experience after owning a good number of Tacomas, take the bolts that hold the protection pan out and replace them with stainless steel bolts. Do it sooner rather than later. I've broken a few off in years past, and struggled with rusted in bolts too. The bolts are metric threads 8x1.25. Carefully run a tap through the hole to make sure the new bolts fit. The ones I got from BoltDepot have 13 mm heads on them, but you can probably find them elsewhere. Use anti-seize. Use a 6-point socket on them - less chance of it slipping. I've made this change from my 98 Tacoma on forward.

 

If the center drain plug was used first, would it still be as messy..??

 

It might be less messy once one gets used to doing this oil change, but I don't think it will get as clean as oil changes on earlier models ('05 - '11) were. I barely had to use a rag when doing oil changes for various model years in that range. I don't mean to drive people away from the newest model, just letting them know what to expect.