Mid Travel BS 2.0

Hah I went from US Navy to unemployed for about 3 years chasing a dream, luckily the GI Bill floated me for it, and then I'm where I'm at now making some pretty good cash with my GI Bill cash to supplement my truck addiction which keeps the wife off my back about spending money

 

Just stop, you had me at aggressive treads.

 

Keep it in your pants Rob, damnit.

 

I wouldn't even think twice about the camber, I set my cars at -1 all the way around anyways.

Truck is fine as close to 0 as possible at ride height. Camber will take so long to wear out a tire you will never notice.

On the other hand, I insist toe be at 0, or whatever the manufacturer recommends. Toe will kill a tire faster than you can blink.

 

That was my impression from my old car days as well. That toe was the real killer. Just wasnt sure if id get anything weird with one being slightly positive and one negative.

Thanks for the opinion

 

Not with the specs on your truck. Honestly with a meaty side-walled tire, I highly doubt you would notice any difference.

 

Cool, thanks. Still need to free them up sometime though

 

Move out west, hahaha

 

Yes, which is why I also said "or whatever the manufacturer recommends". I've had fwd, rwd, and awd vehicles, and though they're all different, the one thing you want to be in spec more than anything is toe.

The others are definitely important for handling purposes, but toe saves your tires.

 

If camber is off you'll have super uneven wear as well. Id say Toe and Camber are equally as important.

 

It would have to be like 3+ degrees before it made any noticeable difference. If you have more than that and it's not on purpose, you probably have bigger problems.

 

Saw this picture and realized it's hilarious. He has no uptravel or downtravel at all.

Edit: I know it's not mid travel but figured y'all would get a good laugh.

 

you have to remove coils to crank them don't you?

and no one ever answered whether up or down travel is better for a MT set up.. which I would suppose an equal amount of both would be ideal

 

Depends what you do so there is no correct answer. For a mix of everything equal would be sufficient

 

But i'm definitely needing to go up cause I'm sick of the rake plus i don't haul.

 

I would think you need at least a couple inches of downtravel for just day to day driving. Otherwise you'd be topping out your coilovers on every little bump in the road.

 

Ive said this answer a few times before but not all feel the same way. So ill start by saying that this is what I was instructed by King tech support. Call them if you would like, talk to Nick he is really knowledgeable.

According to King you should not exceed 3/4" of thread showing between the top hat and coil nut on their C/Os. It is also said in their instructions that height should be set with the coilovers off the vehicle. Which is a total pain but if you want to keep that coil nut holes from taking gaping abuse from the spanner, its necessary. (Especially if you have 700s)

So if you still have rake after setting maximum recommended cranks than i would say remove some rake. It is my understanding if you do a shackle flip with OEM shackles you can lose some height in the rear (and gain flex)

I hope this answer is sufficient. If not, proceed with doing whatever you want.

 

The whole point of a threaded collar is to adjust the preload. The only reason i see that they would recommend not going over 0.75 inches is to prevent coil block or losing all down-travel. Otherwise how many threads are showing shouldnt matter at all.

The shackle flip reduces up-travel and gains down-travel in its place aka "flex"

 

Will you lose much up travel from a shackle flip if you also put in some shock towers?