30,000mi Check up

Hi,

So the last time I brought my truck in to the dealer, they said at 30,000 I need to have it in for a major check up which involved oil change, tire rotation and greasing. Now that my free oil changes are up I'll start doing those myself as well as the rotations. But what about the greasing, I assume this isn't the biggest deal? Is there a manual I can get that shows all the points? Also is there a preferred oil that you guys use? This is my first new vehicle that I hope to have for awhile. Thanks for any help!

Mark

 

Try a Google search for the location of the zerks. Oil...any name brand is fine. Walmart has the best deals on oil, and I'd go 5w-30 full synthetic. You can't go wrong with M1 or Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum, for example. You don't need boutique oil. I'd use OEM filters.

 

I imagine others will chime in, but the 30,000 mile service is large from what I remember.
Front and rear differential fluid change
Spark plugs
Transmission fluid
Tranfercase fluid
Grease drive lines
Cabin and air intake filters.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/30-000-mile-service.292616/

 

Post showing all the driveshaft grease points (same between your 2014 and 2016): https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/check-your-u-joints.409042/#post-11508028

Greasing the U-joints is actually one of the most important maintenance tasks that many Taco owners neglect. They pay for it when they get clunks and vibrations when the U-joints wear out and become sloppy. Greasing should be done every 10,000 miles or every year.

 

The only grease points are on the drive shafts universal joints, 3 in the rear shaft and 2 in the front shaft. Unless you were unfortunate enough to get one without zerk fittings. The fitting could be in the middle of the universal joint or on an end cap. The front fittings are harder to get to.

 

Wow thanks for the quick replies. I'll get on this ASAP. Glad I joined the forum!

 

If you don't do spark plugs it voids your emissions warranty... so the 8/80 is gone including catalyst coverage. Cats are expensive. Spark plugs are cheap, and take a half hour.

 

I'm not buying that without some documentation. I think Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act may also disagree with that blanket statement.

http://www.mlmlaw.com/library/guides/ftc/warranties/undermag.htm

 

Front/Rear Diff and Transfer only called for at 30K if you tow.

Transmission not even if you tow.

 

Isn't the magnusson-moss act about aftermarket parts and that the manufacturer has to prove the aftermarket part caused the failure to deny warranty coverage? This is talking about not doing routine maintenance which will absolutely be grounds for warranty denial on an engine related issue. It's the same if you don't change your oil or use the wrong weight, they can then deny coverage for a failure.

 

Oh, so you didn't even read the link I provided.

The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act is the federal law that governs consumer product warranties. Passed by Congress in 1975, the Act requires manufacturers and sellers of consumer products to provide consumers with detailed information about warranty coverage. In addition, it affects both the rights of consumers and the obligations of warrantors under written warranties.

Not changing the spark plugs exactly as defined in the maintenance schedule will have no effects on the Federal Emissions Warranty as in the Cat converter etc.

Not changing the oil is an entirely different matter.

As far as the oil viscosity or weight goes they are not going to void the warranty over that unless you do something stupid like fill it with 90 weight gear oil. As long as the oil you are using meets the ILSAC Grade standard.

Here is what the Toyota Owners Manual says:

 

Most of the fluids at the 30,000mi point are checks, not replacement or flushes.

I personally would not take it to the dealer after warranty is up. You'll just get misled and hosed on price. But read the manual. Most of it is fluid checks.

 

I do not understand why people keep saying transmission fluid is part of the 30k maint. It is not.

I also read somewhere that failure to change plugs at 30k voids some kind of warranty, perhaps it is in the owner's manual I will check. Or maybe they told me that at the stealership, I do not recall. Since they are copper plugs it is a good idea to change them at 30k regardless of warranty concerns in my opinion.

 

Why do you say that about the plugs?

In my previous Fords, I changed them at around 100k and I'll change them on my current F250 when I feel like it and I'm at 205k now. Think they were changed around 100k if I remember the maintinence records right.

I ask cause My Taco is at 32k and is hard starting now. I think my battery is taking a shit which is why. I doubt it would be the plugs. They normaly last far longer than the maker says.

 

The stock plugs don't last long as they are copper type plugs. Rolling up on 30 K miles now, just ordered E3 plugs, and a Napa Gold air filter. Have run the E3's in the '12 Sport with good results. T case and diffs getting synthetic oil, might drop the Trans pan and put in some new fluid every 30 K miles now,also. No dipstick, dumbest thing in the world.

 

Generally speaking copper plugs are good for about 30k and the platinum/iridium are good for 100k. What kind of plugs were in the Fords? I agree it is possible that the plugs could last much longer but I like changing my plugs and copper plugs are cheap. I change the plugs in my Cobra every year and I change the plugs in my Tacoma every 30k. I use copper NGK plugs in both vehicles.

 

Good question. I'll have to go pop them out and find out.
I didn't put them in. They were changed by a previous owner.

 

at 30k on my older 2011 access cab, i spent an easy day doing the plugs (copper denso) cleaned the MAF, cabin and engine air filters (good price from Amazon.com), Mobil 1 from walmart, OEM oil filter from dealer, front and rear differential and transfer case with Mobil 1 synthetic, and greased the zerks. The front drive shaft ones were a pita but doable. There are tons of pictures and threads here to look at before you do it. Plus while you are under the truck you can check the shape of the cv boots. Maybe clean the battery posts while under the hood. A nice day spent, and my truck love me for it.

 

This covers you if you use non OEM spark plugs and a failure occurs, then Toyota cannot blame it on the non OEM part and not do warranty work. If you fail to do the maintenance they can absolutely not provide warranty coverage for that failure. I don't care about the emissions warranty, I am talking about the standard powertrain warranty. And while I agree with the law, good luck fighting it, I doubt many people want to deal with the hassle and cost associated with fighting a large corporation. Now I know you'll say well they can be reimbursed if they win, but that's if they win and how long will it be tied up in court while your out the cost of the repair for your vehicle.