Unichip!!!!

After few miles, the correction is carried by the LTFT and then is part of the formula used by the ECU to control fuel so no more trick.

At part throttle it's absolutly normal to operate in open loop for a moment depending on the rpm cause based on the % of load thait is totaly different than the % of TPS.

I had a MAF on my 2005 until i change my truck in 2011 and had one until last year cause looking to use unichip. Via my Innovate OT-1, innovate boost and AFR gauge i can datalog in real time all signals from the truck and gauges. I had so many runs datalog i've stopped to count them. And i've spend so many timestuning my fuel map.

Wow i'm looking at your fuel map and there is a problem for me. To say it simple, your truck is in open loop for everything over 3000 rpm and every TPS over 2V or 2.5V (there is some transition area but). Everybody knows that the Tacoma is running f?%%$%g rich in open loop and you're adding fuel anywhere. Man, realy, get and AFR sensor.

Take a look at the 2 graphs attached. You'll see where the truck is in open loop and look at one of my first fuel map i start with when i switched to 2.85 puley. Do you see the difference. And my more renet map, after chaging fuel pump have value way lower than that, in 8,xxx. I understand when you say eat fuel.

 

Normaly you should tune your close loop trying to get fuel trims at 0 (STFT+LTFT=0) and then tune the open loop section trying to get something like 12.5 (i think for NA it's right) at WOT.

Trying to help.

 

Well I'm N/A with stock injectors so our maps will be completely different, mine looks rich yours looks lean...
With the exhaust, intake mod and intake spacer leaned it out so I had to add more fuel...
According to my dash commander I'm around 12.1 or just passed in open loop and 0-60 times are the best with this map....

Running fuel trims at 0 are great for MPG but not power...
I run negative fuel trims for performance and 0 for MPG.... That's the whole point....
Just keep adding fuel till it stops improving and that's the best for your set up for the most power...
My frs likes 12.7 the trucks likes 12 ( it could be slightly richer)
I can really feel it on the dunes runs great in open loop and bad in closed loop, she likes lots of gas in high load...

Did you do the reflash, because your map is the opposite of mine your leaning it out at higher rpm, I had to add fuel and your idle section looks really rich?

 

Like explain, everything you do in closed loop will be void by the ECU and LTFT except maybe the position on timing map. We are not running 0 on FT for mpg cause liek said it doean't affect the AFR in close loop. The lower mpg with the MAF cal is coming from removing fuel and getting a more appropriate AFR in open loop and at WOT. The ECU carry the LTFT in open loop, it's why fuel trims can affect open loop tuning.

Mods are not leaning out mixture in close loop. Even in open loop, it will not affect the AFR set by the ECU except if your intake have a different geometry than the OEM at the cross section of the tube where the MAF is installed. Like sais i've recorded like 70 runs in the past on road and on drag track with and without different mods and the only moment where i had to add fuel has been when i reach the limit of the fuel pump and i was trying to add fuel with the MAF cal. cause AFR was to lean for my set up.

Yeah i run the TRD refalsh but my previous truck was NA and it was running pretty rich at WOT like all tacomas on earth. With or without the reflash they run rich, something like AFR=10 and even richer. So if you want to have a leaner AFR like 12 your cells values in the map have to be Under 10.

For my iddle, it was a development map and i was doing some test in the transition area where you have 2 conditions (close loop iddle and open loop/fuel cut on decel).

I have done some test in the past using the signal from the truck to read AFR and results were not good, read signal was offset from realty. Results with AFR gauge are totaly different.

 

Not to butt in on the debate but my truck dipped all the way down to 9.8 AFR and held around 10.5 in open loop at WOT
my truck is N/A as well.
AFR's were read off the right bank with an MTX-L
I leaned out open loop to a 9.8 value in the maf cal software. which put me at 12.3-12.8 AFR range.
so a 0.2 value change from 10 = no signal modification changed my AFR by 2.5
I cant imagine what the AFR value is when your maf cal software is at 11 during WOT

 

Your right, but what no seams to get is, how does the computer works and how does it know when to adjust the F/A mixture?
It adjust only after it reads too lean or too rich...
So if you add fuel, the computer will adjust only after it's too rich, so it already injected at 13-1 and then adjusted to 14.7...
It doesn't over compensate it just corrects for the next cycle..
Does it maintain that setting? no, the MAF says to add more fuel, it sprays in more fuel, takes a reading, reads too much, adjust the fuel and sprays in the corrected amount and then cycle starts over and over and over again...
So it won't stay at 13 but you are cheating in more fuel...
At 3000 RPM it's injecting fuel 12 times a second, there is no way the computer is correcting on every cycle maybe every other or every 3rd but not 12 times a second, so every other time you have extra fuel, it's that simple...

If it didn't make a difference there would be no reason to adjust the map below WOT, it would be a waste of time...
But we both know changes even at an idle will make a difference, only because you are cheating the fuel...
If the computer was that good you could run my map and in a few mins it would run the same...
But if we change maps both our trucks will run like shit...

If you are running 0 trim bump your closed loop map 2-3 tenths across the board and I guarantee it will run better and mpg will go down..
your closed loop map has to be .5-1 higher than your WOT map because closed loop is at 14.7 and wot is 10 ( from the factory)
So how can you have the same adjustment? why would you lean it out from 14.7 in closed loop?
you are running way to lean in closed loop....Unless the re flash changes your F/A in closed loop....

 

I'm running 10 at WOT and may be going to 10.2..
11 is at high rpm in closed loop...
I think I started at around 9.4 in open loop and just kept adding fuel till it stop pulling...
This is just a modified map that gadget loaded on there for me.
He is a good tuner and had a very good base to work from....

I also run 87 octane and we have reformulated gas here so it has 10% ethanol in it so you have to run richer then real gas....
Or I could lean it out and run 93 oct but It wouldn't be any faster, maybe slower...

 

You could add a degree or so of timing with the 93 RON. Ad when a degree of timing is worth approximately 10hp, it is worth it.

Especially since there is ethanol in the gas, rubbing its BTU potency. Although offering a tiny timing buffer.

 

Sorry i'm pretty aware about how the ECU is operating. The only problem in your explanation is that you only consider the Short Term Fuel Trim. First, trims are not constant from one cell to the otehr cell of the map. And second, after few miles, the correction is transfer to the Long Term Fuel Trim and this one will void your changes cause it doesn't care about control loop because it is part of the basic injection duration calculation.

Maybe your base map from gadget was a bit different from All the ones i see before in order to take care and correct the K&N CAI impact on MAF readings.

There is reason to adjust below WOT cause a large part of the map is covering the open loop operation.

I know how the MAF controller is operating. Are you? In another thread you didn't even know what was the voltage value in the top of the map! You send a link to somebody for the tuning manual from gadget. Did you even read it? And 1/10 adjustment on the map is the same thing at WOT and in close loop. It's not 1/10 of 10 AFR at WOT and 1/10 of 14.7 in close loop. This is not related to the AFR readings. It's related to the reading of MAF sensor in g/s. ±1/10 adjustment is a correction of ±0.025V on the MAF signal and it's totaly linear.

All tuning documentation i've readen in the past say maximum power for NA is somewhere between 12 and 13 AFR at WOT.

But no problem with the fact that we do not agree. It remained a polite conversation like that should always be. As I often say, I am not the custodian of truth if it can be said that way.

Regards

 

Before the unichip it was better to run richer F/A with 87 octane than running 93...
Now that I can adjust timing there may be a benefit to running 93 with more timing and backing off the fuel...
But once you map for ethanol it could make more power...
All the tuner guys are make more power with E85...

The nice thing about tuning is it's never over....
I'll be trying different setups this summer...

 

Hey it's cool we don't have to agree but at least we are working on our trucks...
and I'm N/A running on 87 oct ethanol fuel, if I switched to 93 or 93 non ethanol I would have to back my map way down...
I just feel with the low compression there is no need to run 93 and I feel the faster ignition of the 87 produces more power...
And we are stuck with ethanol fuel here.
Supercharged you have to run higher octane fuel...
I'm also running an intake spacer and no pcv ( I don't want oil injection).. All these little things add up...

We can all learn from each other and get new ideas.....
Hey I just try it, if it works great, if not at least I tried...

 

Not sure if you are aware that the 4.0L 1GR has a compression ratio of 10.0:1
Which I consider relatively high. Not high compared to diesel maybe.
GM use to be 8.5:1
Acura runs 11:1 and recommends premium fuel. If you compare the exact same Honda engine to its Acura equivalent the Acura always has more Power because they increase compression for a higher end more performance based product.
The faster ignition is called premature detonation.
Premature detonation robs power as the mixture ignites on the up stroke reducing efficiency.
There is also engine testing on the 1GR that shows it gained 3hp and 12ft-lbs on 93 vs 87. Can't remember the original source I found. Wikipedia mimics the info as well on the 1GR.
If you get a chance to dyno let us know the results.

 

Well it's rated at 10 to 1 in reality when you check most engines they are a little less so maybe 9.5-1 is probably more accurate...
That's probably why I need to run more fuel because I'm using the 87 oct with ethanol...
before I got the maf cal I used to run 50/50 87 and 93...
After I run 87 , sometimes maybe 30% 93...
It just doesn't need much octane...
My FRS hates lower octane, I could maybe mix 25% 87 but not worth the risk in the FRS and after reflashing I stick to 93.

Higher octane doesn't make more HP it slows down ignition.
Tuners are making the most power with E85, so you have to tune for the fuel you are using and so far I find no advantage going to 100% 93..
In some counties I can get non ethanol gas which runs the best but with my current tune it will run worse, so I just stick to 87...

I want to get It on the dyno, it's on the to do list...

 

Question about Unichip...I was on unichip's website and noticed they have a plug and play unichip for the 2013, does anyone have any experience with this plug and play product. everything I read on this forum has people manually tuning there unichip setup...atleast that's what I get out of the reads. I was just looking for something to use that I don't have to self tune all the time. This unichip plugs into the ECM and has 2 settings, switchable...

 

bump on more information about the uni chip. I'm in the market for a URD MAF or a uni chip. Not sure what route to go.
I have a URD intake,Doug long tube headers, 2.5 exhaust with a flow master 40 series.

 

I have the plug and play. easy to install, but adds $300 to the price....
But you have to pay another 300 for the mapping software....

 

I have both...
The urd maf is much better dollar for dollar mod for the fuel but you have to hard wire in in...
The unichip you can also add timing that the computer won't correct....
Ultimately the unichip is nicer and has more precise control and multiple maps but much more $$$$....
When you add the plug and play and tuning software it's about $1000...

With either one you can correct for intake and exhaust mods and fix the over rich open loop...
And with either one you will need to make your own maps for them to work.....

 

Okay may go with the urd maf route first then. Have you ever used a aprx-1?

 

APR hasn't been in business for years.

URD's UCON has replace the X-1.

 

Will a Uni chip work in a 2009 or newer? I feel like I read that it only goes up until 2008