Lifted '16 Tacomas

Does anyone know if Toyota is aware of the sloppy clamshell bearing in the front diff that seems to be causing the tacoma vibrations?

 

looks like a great way to ruin a nice new truck

 

Are those Koing wheels hubcentric to our truck? They look great! Are you running center caps?

 

Looks really nice Ryan!

 

Thank you. It rides really nice too. Great quality product.

 

Could you go into detail on how it would ruin it?

 

It's a spacer lift. I know people have different budgets but if you're going to lift a new 30k+ truck, then do it with good parts. At least front shocks, coils and an AAL and shocks in the rear minimum. Better ride and performance for years.

 

I can see the AAL in the rear, but what would be the difference in a spacer preloading the original strut vs a aftermarket strut with a threaded adjustable preload?

 

Just added the pictures to our Facebook. Thank you so much for sharing!!!

 

Awesome! Thanks. However, I don't do Facebook.

 

There are tons if threads on this,just do some research before you buy.

 

I have read 110 pages on this thread and nothing, but will look elsewhere, thanks

 

Well there is all kinds of things to consider like: what is your goal? What is your budget? Do you have a fr bumper/winch? Do you want a lot of travel? How high do you want it? Do you want to be able to adjust and fine tune it? How do you want it to ride? A lot of off road or on road diving?

Yes they will all give you lift,just decide what your wants and needs. Just some bilsteins and OME springs in the front are a pretty good bang for the buck.

 

Well, I am happy with the factory ride, not a hard core off-roader, but do go camping and like to do some off-roading. would like a 4"/2" lift. I figure new cast iron steering knuckles like BDS would be the best way to go but $$$ We live in the sticks of TN.

 

This post tells me you have a lot of reading still to do. Branch outside the 3rd gen forum and use the search function, theres tons of material on here and it can be quite overwhelming but be patient and listen to those that have been there and done that before.

1: 3" of front lift is the maximum your CVs will allow without imploding themselves on stock width arms
2: The technical term on a IFS truck is "Spindle" not steering knuckle
3: There are no spindle options that will work with a 4wd truck. Spindle lifts work by lowering the hub location while maintaining factory suspension geometry.

Here is a great article explaining the negatives of using a coil spacer: http://www.bilsteinus.com/fileadmin/user_upload/user_upload_us/pdfs/Bil_LevShks_WebArticle.pdf

In summary of that article, a spacer lift works by essentially moving your entire suspension down 3" but still utilizing stock suspension pivot points and diff mounts. What this means is that when your truck hits the point where it should be at full droop the shocks still have 3" of travel left and will prematurely wear your ball joints and cause the CVs to bind. Likewise at full compression you are still 3" away from the bump stops designed to protect the shocks. This leaves nothing stopping the suspension from continuing to travel upwards most commonly resulting in a bent or broken lower shock stem or worse.

 

I haul 4-500 lbs almost daily. So the truck sits level. I want to lift it 1-1.5" all the way around.

I'll likely go with 5100s @ .85 in front, but I am stumped what to do with the rear.

Sounds like an AAL might be best. Any brand suggestions? I'd like the rear to be feeling as stock as possible while unloaded on the highway.

 

Thanks, I normally call them spindles but BDS uses the term knuckles.
http://bds-suspension.com/product?ma=12&mo=45&ty=1&yr=2005-2015


This new Tacoma IFS suspension lift system follows BDS proven design standards using full 1 piece front & rear crossmembers coupled with precision machined ductile cast iron steering knuckles. The steering knuckles are designed to work within the factory traction control constraints and provide stock-like handling characteristics. The knuckles are also considerably more robust in both the mass and strength categories over the rather light-duty stock components.



The crossmembers are built from ¼" steel plate and have integrated differential mounts that work with the new provided differential mounts to properly drop and reposition the front differential for optimal CV and front driveshaft angles.



The whole package is protected by a new belly pan skid plate that runs from the front to rear crossmember and integrates cleanly with the factory from skid/splash guard.



The factory front struts are retained with the kit utilizing a top strut spacer to gain the proper lift height. (Found this build on this thread.) https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/607s-tacoma.420843/#post-12004157

 

Meh. DB lifts, good for around town. If that's your jam

 

thats a whole different animal, and once you choose to go to a 6" lift its very difficult to back track since you cut and lower your OEM crossmember and relocate the diff mounts but if thats your style more power to you.