How To Trouble Shoot 4x4 Actuator

I've gone through two of them now. Taken them both apart, same design.

 

Okay, as I mentioned, I found the "actuator" (part number (41400-35033), and ordered it online. Wouldn't you just know it, once received, I noticed that at some point, prior to shipping, the unit had obviously been dropped onto a concrete floor (as it was really packed well in bubble wrap). The entire black plastic casing, where the electrical connection made, was broken off, plus all the electrical contacts were smashed flat. Other than a few days delay, the guy at the parts place (EB TOYOTA PARTS, North Attleboro, Mass) was extremely apologetic, emailed me a UPS label while we were on the phone, and got me another unit on the way immediately, which I received a couple of days ago. So, all appears well, and now I've just got to get my oil (I'm going to change the front differential & transfer case oil while I'm at it) and locate a 10mm hex socket or allen wrench, plus a 24 mm 6 pt socket, and I'll be ready to dive in.

Now I've got a question, for some of you who have done this before. This may be a stupid question, but if you don't know, why not ask? Anyway, everyone here has been so helpful, so far.

So, once I get my truck (Std 4x4 Access Cab, no off road or TRD, or LSD, 6 cyl) up on the lift, should the transmission be in Park or Neutral, and most importantly, should I have the 4x4 switch set in 2H, 4H, 4L, etc. Just wondering if it makes a difference, when installing the actuator. I see the fork on the actuator, and it doesn't appear to move freely, so I'm supposing that where ever it slips in, has got to be in the correct position to accept it ?o

Any comments would be greatly appreciated............thanks

​

 

Okay, done deal. NO more "blinky blinky blinky" indicator light, and I got my 4x4 back again.

ADDITIONAL NOTES: Anybody that says that top left actuator bolt, isn't a bitch to get out, and put back in, simply hasn't done this job. "IT IS A REAL MUTHER", but, if you can get that one out (AND I'D SUGGEST DOING THAT FIRST), then you should be good to proceed. Everything else is pretty basic, just follow the instructions in this thread. But, before you drain your differential oil, make sure you are going to be able to remove (get a wrench on), that top left actuator bolt, and break it free. Again, it's a tough one, but better to have to drive you truck to the dealer, as it is, with the old oil in tact, than to be forced to waste all that expensive new oil.

Also, if using one of those long plastic tubes that screw onto your oil bottle, to refill your differential, go in from above, and slightly in front of the tire, and work the tube back down through everything. It's a straight shot from there (DON'T TRY TO COME IN FROM THE BACK).

Also, it is really beneficial to have an extra hand when you begin filling - someone to hold and squeeze the bottle, and someone to hold the tube in the fill hole. It's pretty tough to handle the oil bottle, while watching the fill hole for overflow. Plus, you'll need to plug that plastic oil tube from the bottle, quickly, when the differential gets full. Otherwise, you may end up with a big mess (I won't go into that, lol), because that second oil bottle isn't going to be anywhere near empty, when you need to remove it from the filler hole. If you have access, the best bet is to use a pump..........

None-the-less, I'm done, through, finished - Yes, it was a bit more of a job than I anticipated, but it's done now, and I got my 4x4 back !​

 

well, looks like im about to join the club
ive been dealing with this issue for a few weeks now and im sick of it. (MY TRUCK IS A 2015!!!)

4wd light starts blinking when i try to engage 4hi, and if i do get it engaged, as soon as i switch back to 2hi it blinks and has been blinking for the past 480 miles or so. what ive gathered from this thread is that i can pull the ADD off, solder the pins, and either it will work and ill be fine for a while, or it wont and ill be back at square one.
here goes nothing i spose

 

I'm thinking that the guys that did the soldering fix, only removed the black cover (5 screws), did the work, whatever that may have been, and then replaced the cover. Either it worked or it didn't. From a personal standpoint, I would thoroughly hate to think that I had completely removed the actuator from the differential, and not replaced it with a new one. That is not an easy task, and first, you must drain your front differential........ Wouldn't your truck still be under warranty ?

 

yeah but theyre probably going to give me shit because i put a 6" lift on it. my plan is to pull it down and take a look inside of it first to see if theres water in it. (id imagine that a ADD full of water would probably void the waranty). while i have it down ill do the solder trick and see what happens. if it doesnt work, i plan on taking it in to see what they have to say,.

 

Well, if you solder the thing, it will surely void your warranty. I wouldn't think that water inside, should void anything. It shouldn't be leaking in the first place. Let them find that. If you are going to completely remove the actuator from the front differential, I'd have one on hand to replace it with. Order one online and have it there. If you don't need it, send it back (all you are out is a little postage).

Otherwise, if you go to a dealer, they are going to say, "do not pass go, do not collect $100, you need a new actuator - period", and that will be to the tune of around $400 - $500 for the part, plus another $200+ for labor. I was quoted close to $700 for the job. I gambled and replaced mine myself. Guess what, I now have 4x4 again. This problem is not something that a dealer will look at and attempt to fix. All their info tells them is if the light is blinking - replace the front actuator - Good Luck !

 

my ADD appears to be too close to the cross member to remove it because of the 6" lift. it looks like ill have to lower the differential in order to remove it.
im hoping it will be as simple as removing those three bolts and lowering it with a floor jack

 

help please i have wheel drive , that would not shift into 4 wheel drive .after replacing the transfer case motor and the front actuator it will now shift in to 4 low but not 4 hi 4 hi dose nothing it bling when i turn the switch back to 2 hi but dose not blink when its turned to 4 hi .its getting expensive replacing parts the shop thinks it has something to with the transfer case motor timing it skips by 4 hi i have been told that it has to engage 4 hi before it can low. any help would great

 

from what i understand, if its blinking, you're in 2 hi. if you are able to engage 4 Lo and not 4 Hi, i dont believe it is your differential actuator. like the mechanic said, it sounds like something to do with THE transfer case itself

 

you have to check the inputs to the ECU to determine what isn't working and properly diagnose it. It's really not that hard to do but most people just waste $500 on the actuator and hope that fixes it, but the truth is that with this rube goldberg setup it could be almost anything including the 4x4 switch itself, the 4wd ECU, the 4hi and/or 4lo limit switches on the transfer case, or the actuators.

 

thanks

 

the ADD just quit on me yesterday at the start of a trail, thank god not while I was on it!

I replaced the 4x4 Actuator on my transfer case a month ago with a second-hand part for $475 CAD from a junk yard and I tested it by the method of testing a starter, tapped on the solenoid motor and then tried switching it over and it switched but stuck in 4wd till I tapped the motor again and then came out. Their was no light when trying to switch to 4wd before and theirs no light again now that my ADD is gone, I tried the same method, tapping on the motor (black cover, to specific) and got in the truck to try it and it switched over in park quicker then before.

Now when i switch into 4wd its fine but when i'm coming back into 2wd, at a crawl, theirs a violent clunk and comes out. It did that before this problem too.

 

Time to sell

 

100,000 miles today on the ODO and the actuator goes out again...well, looks like I will be soldering the contact points this time.

 

howd it go?

 

Completed it two days ago and everything is working just like it did before. That one bolt that everybody has trouble with is a pain in the ass. Im pretty sure I set a record for consecutive four letter words said in a sentence trying to get that out. After I droped the diff a little bit, I got it out fairly easily.Takes about 30 minutes to do if you have all the right stuff and you drop the diff.

 

@ahspurlock fix that other ADD and have a spare

 

Well, you got the Marines insignia in you profile...

 

Hi Guys! Having the same problem. Tried to go into 4wd last week and the light just keeps blinking. 07 Tacoma 4dr with Revtek 3' kit, auto trans, BFGodorich 285's. Only has 30500 miles on it. Tried putting it in 4wd about a year ago for the first time to see if it works and it worked ok. Now I just get the blinking light. Since I don't have the means to get all 4 wheels off the ground tried this to test if it was the transfer case of differential actuator. Started truck and started to move forward about 10mph. Tried to activate 4wd and got the blinking light. Stopped the truck and went under. Tried turning the front drive shaft by hand and couldn't. Drove a little bit more and turned off the 4wd. Light went off. Went back under the truck and tried turning the driveshaft again. Now it was free wheeling. So I'm guessing that the transfer case actuator is working ok and my front differential one is the problem. Want to be sure I buy and work on the right one. I know I should use the 4wd more often. I also have a 1990 Toyota 4x4 pickup that I am the original owner. That one has never failed to go into 4wd! Thanks for any advice.
BTW I did try hitting it with a hammer. Didn't help!
Mahalo!