alignment specs on a 2016??

I searched and couldn't find the answer on here. I have a 2016 trd sport 4wd double cab. I went to get my truck aligned after the lift was put on. Are the specs tge same as a 2015 or not? The alignment shop computer only went to 2015. We called the dealer who wasn't sure and was supposed to get back to me but never did. We went with 2015 specs. Just wanted to make sure they were correct? Thanks Steve

 

I would just set it to 2015 specs. Personally I would set the left (drivers side) side between 0 to .5 degrees positive and right side .5 negative to 0 degrees ( most likely with a lift you'll be positive on both sides. Set toe to 0 maybe 1/16 in toe in. Caster should be as close side to side as possible or it may pull one way.

 

These are the numbers i ended up with. Caster was off a bit and i am debating on getting total chaos uca. I do notice a little "jerking" of tge steering wheel and i am hoping uca will correct this?

 

Seem to be having trouble with my 2016, alignment and severe tire wear resulting. Stealership and FSM have not been very responsive and won't provide copies of the alignment, either before or after the latest service. This is disturbing because this is the second alignment in the vehicles first 3,000 miles of service.

Observations:

1) Front LCA adjustment cams are maxed out in what appears to be mostly caster; left and right very different.

2) Truck seems to want to steer through corners from the rear-end.

3) Steering wheel center after a corner is never straight.

4) Truck wanders and fights with the crown of the road

5) Terrible vibrations

6) Outside edge of rear-tires has excessive wear and tearing at tread-blocks

7) Cupping of front tire.

8) Wheelbase has grown.

What I have observed about the rear axle setup:

1) Rear axle was likely designed with some camber. Quick and crude check with a bubble and protractor shows I have about 5° negative/side. Is anyone seeing the same on their axle?

2) I am showing toe-in on the rear axle. Again, quick and crude I used a square block and laser (older B&D unit). The laser, shadowed by a rear tire, shines at the middle or inner edge of the front tire.

3) Missing a pinion angle shim on Passenger side of truck. Driver's side looks like the shim is backwards. Does anyone else see the shims on their axle's?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/attachm...-alignment_adjustment-2016-tacoma-pdf.921335/

 

What kind of lift, tires, wheels you running?

 

Thank you for sending the information; this will be useful. I probably need to have an independent shop check the front end alignment and steering component angles. I suspect that the VSC system reset/relearn as likely neglected. Rear brake lock-up occurs very easily and without ABS system activation. Turning right vs. turning left have a much different, if not slightly nervous feeling. I drive CA-18 (aka RIM of the World Highway) daily. The twisty corners that have few guardrails and steep drops into the abyss are concerning.

I am still wondering about rear-axle alignment. Toyota may call the adjustment "torque-angle". My Nissan and other trucks I have worked on usually had a tapered shim that set both drive-line angle and rear camber. Changing the axel's relative angular position will change both camber and toe-in. My all-stock suspension has a tapered shim on the port-side. The starboard side lacks a shim. The port-side shim appears to be installed backwards. I would check the U-bolts myself but don't want to put any personal liability into the dealership's recent replacement of the starboard leaf-spring.

I have a suspicion that the axle housing is twisting while driving and pulling on the parking-brake cables. The logic of attaching the cables to the springs and making them so short escapes me.

The truck is a TRD off-road on the OEM suspension. For winter driving a set of Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac tires were installed. P265-75 16's were selected both for availability and concerns about P265-70's making contact with the front UCA and ball-joint. The stealership refused to address the gas mileage issue because of the very, very slight change in tire-size (about 3% difference in Rev/Mile). The original tires (1200 miles use) show signs of toe-in wear and cupping.

 

My TRD sport did not have any shims. If you have them on one side and I belive they are angled/tapered degree shims, I would remove them. Rear axle should be sitting identical on both sides. When they do alignment they they center their lasers of rear axle/wheelbase so it's sound like you are "dog tracking" the question is why would it have shims to begin with? Did you purchase your truck bran new?

Why did dealer replaced your leaf pack? Was your truck in any kind of accidents?

 

Holy crap that's a lot of problems. Doesn't even sound safe to drive really. Wish I had some advice worth giving - good luck getting it sorted out.