3 & 1 lift vs 3" Level

Ok, my first post got off track so here goes,

I bought this



I am wanting to level it out and add new rims and tires, 4wheeler folks suggested these;

Tires KO2 BFG's

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/LT...aspx?t_c=13&t_s=536&t_pt=101509&t_pn=BFG99728

Wheels' 17"

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Wheels/X...=11&t_s=535&t_pt=101508&t_pn=W/PXD81178067710

3 front 1 rear level

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Suspensi...ck.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=358&t_pt=9333&t_pn=T/MTM506

or front level out only

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Suspensi...l00_ContentPlaceHolder1_pDetail_pdf_Container

Don't know wether the 17" vs 18" wheels matter, I just don't much like the stock 16's

What do you think and any opinions on something better from 4wheeler website, let me know!

I was curious if I need to do the 3 n 1 or just get the front leveled out with rear with the 2.25 " leveling kit!

I was thinking of the above so the tires won't stick out to much past the flares but don't know if they are wide tires, I do like little width on them has well as height, are the above tires with rims give a good height as well as width, I don't want a large space between tire and fender.

I am new so just need advice from you pro's here, thanks

 

Please don't put a 3" spacer on your truck

 

Ok,

what would you recommend to level it out with the rims and tires I listed!

 

Just get Bilstein 5100's
275/70/17 tires
And call it a day

 

I'd go with the 3/1" lift if you are set in 285 bfg's.
If you are just as happy with 275 bfg's, you will be fine with a leveling kit.

I'd get bilstein 5100 and then 275's.

Or bilstein 5100's, Toytec 3" lift coils, and a 1.5 add-a-leaf for the rear if you go with 285's.

 

I did the front level and skipped the rear and regretted it, the measurements matched my idea, but it ended up with a reverse rake after.



I didn't want to lift my rear as it would impede my dog from getting in and out but he just got himself banned from the bed anyway.

Spacer lifts have their place, they are cheap and often ride better than 5100s and stock coils dialed tighter to gain ride height. Toytec or OME is ideal, but not for everyone. My truck is a lease and I plan on returning it in 2 years.

 

Don't mean to sound dumb, but new to this, how are tires measured is the 275 and 285 the height and 70 the width?

I really like these styles




I just have no clue on sizes and I hear bad things about spacers, I know that the truck comes with bilstiens but they can not be adjusted in the front so. I had a 2010 Tundra for 5 years, that had I think a 3 n 1 with the rear a little raked but it looked great and had no problems with spacers, same tires the five years too, 20" Rims and 305/55/R20 Toyo, I just want to have the front level with rear and not overkill on space between tire and fender.

 

Alls good, tire size confused me at first as well.

Ex:
285/70r17

285 is the width of the tire in millimeters
70 is height off the wheel, in % of the tire width.
17 is the wheel diameter.

So a 285mm tire will be 11.2" wide and be 7.8 (70%) tall off the wheel.
This means that is tire is 32.6" tall.

You can increase height of a tire by increasing the second number, and keep the width the same.
You can also increase he height of a tire by increasing the first number and keeping the second number the same (same % of a bigger number)

 

Spacer lifts are really ok for trucks that won't really be used "Offroad" although they can make he ride a bit stiffer in general.

For Offroad use, could and leafs are better as they give more flex of the wheel and don't preload the suspension.

It depends what you want to do with the truck, and how much wheel gap you want!

 

Yup, this is the place you will end up with if you run spacers:



It's not just offroad either. The members I've seen on here with a bent shock have busted them in a lot of different ways. All it takes is for the suspension to bottom out on a pot hole... or when you are crawling around in Waiporus (area I think you were in the pic) and next thing you know your save money on your lease solution requires new shocks.

5100's and lift springs are the way for OP to go. If he wants to save money... well then just take them off when he sells the truck. He'll get at least 50% value for them if they are intact and that makes it just as cheap as a potentially risky spacer lift.

Here's some reading OP:
http://www.tacomahq.com/66/tacoma-leveling-lift-kit/

 

The Bilsteins that come stock on the Tacoma cannot be adjusted because they are not Bilstein 5100 or Bilstein 6112

 

I can show you an equal amount of aftermarket shocks broken. 5100 are good but I've replaced them in their first year on standard ride height, broken or just leaking.

I've seen lots of broken fox shocks, rancho's, procomp mx6's etc. Bottoming out is more of an issue with speed, I'm aware of the weakness I have and just take it easy when I'm on the trail.

We have lots of customers who work on unmaintained roads or offroad with no issues for the life of the strut (~150k)

The only setup I've seen that I haven't seen break is the OME and the Toytec (without the fancy tophat), but they are quite pricey, and I plan on doing it when I find a ride I want to keep.

The spacer is the cheap lift that gives decent ride quality without a full overhaul of suspension. Not for everyone but not as bad as the internet makes it out to be.

 

Full overhaul? It's the exact same amount of work but a few more dollars spent up front.

I agree that every system has it's issues. The 5100's, and to be honest the stock TRD shit too because they are basically 4600's from bili, tend to leak after a few years which require replacement. Again though, either stock or 5100, you're going to have to replace a leaking shock.

Yes speed. Like speed on the deerfoot when you hit a pot hole... right?

I've seen plenty of OME shocks that were toast. I wouldn't rate them any higher that any other RTR strut assembly like a 5100 from Toytec or a Racho. Fox, King, etc etc are in a totally different league. They rarely "break", and if they leak you just rebuild them for what is really pennies on the dollar. However they are massive overkill for a mostly highway vehicle.

I'm not starting an argument here but your whole premise here is to save a few hundred bucks to gain... what? IF you like the Toytec stuff buy it and then flip it when your lease is up.

 

Hey thanks so much for the detailed response, greatly appreciated!

 

I don't want a large gap thats looks way off, just about the gap on the tundra front gap on my old truck!

 

Hey also,

What kind of lift was that called on the tundra above I had!

 

Measure your current gap, add on your expected lift ("x" inches), and subtract half of the additional diameter of the tire you want to run. That's the amount gap your new truck will have. IF you know how much gap you want that should put you were you want to be.

 

It's discarding parts you paid for, to buy parts you plan on selling. Neither of which appeal to me.

If deerfoot ate Tacomas and Tunrdas with spacer lifts I'd be super happy, but the fact is I see tons of them that are just fine. I see more stock Sequoia and 2nd gen Tundras with damaged struts.

Not arguing but weighing in on the otherside of the fence Besides we might run into each other and I'll need a tug if I'm stuck

 

All good, I was about to say the same thing

 

Got it, thanks Bro!