Long Crank

Hi guys,

I posted this in another section but I really wasn't getting any answers.

Recently I've been having troubles with my 2013 Sport cranking too long before starting. Truck has 33K on it and has original stock battery and spark plugs. I bought it used w/ 27K on it.

Every now and then, usually after the truck has been sitting unused for 3+ hours, I will have a hard start. It doesn't happen all the time. Maybe 1 time a week. I have no engine lights on and no problems with the truck while it's running. No odd sounds, no misfires, no vibrations etc. Most of the time it will just crank an extra 2-3 seconds longer than it should before starting. Today however I got scared because it took about 5-6 seconds before starting. I was worried it wasn't going to.

I have had the battery and alternator checked via measuring the voltage. I have no problems with lights coming on when I turn on the ignition. So my battery could be going bad but I really have no other symptoms that indicate battery issues.
I know I have not changed factory plugs but figured this would not be the issue considering I have no issues while the truck is running. Please correct me if that is a wrong assumption.

Anyone have any ideas on what this could be?

Someone told me to run an engine diagnostic on it; however, don't you have to have a check engine light come on in order to do that? I would imagine if there is no light then that means there is no code.

Starting to get a bit concerned.

Other than the truck being turned off for long periods of time I have not noticed any other correlations to this issue. Weather/temp doesn't seem to be a factor. It will happen when cold or warm.

Thanks for any help.

 

Try changing the plugs since it is time to replace them. At least that would be a relatively cheap and easy item to take care of. I changed mine out at 28K miles and the NGK plugs were pretty worn.

 

Thread title had me thinking this might be the UG coming back to TW but...

I'm def no electrician but, can voltage be normal and the battery have low amperage?

 

Yes. Which is why using those voltage testers aren't always the most reliable indicator of battery life. Because I think technically only one cell needs to be functioning to put out good voltage.

 

Here I was thinking each cell produced something like 2.2 volts & 6 cells in series made 13.2v.

 

bump

 

change plugs

big bottle of techron

find a fairly deserted highway and do a 100 mile Italian tuneup

 

- Have battery load tested - voltage test gives no indication of load capability.
- Hook up scanner - there may be PENDING codes. If none are found a good tech can test pertinent circuits and possibly find problem.

 

clean maf too

 

Would slight pumps on the gas pedal once or twice before turning key make any difference?

 

My truck would do this after I replaced the fuel pump. I didn't tighten one of the clamps all the way and had to drop the tank again... Short run ins like to the gas station or liquer store it would fire right back up, but if I went grocery shopping I had to crank for a longer period of time for the pump to reprime the lines and get fuel to the engine.

 

When you start your truck, turn it to the on position then wait a second or two before starting. You should hear a relay click behind your glove box before you start the truck. This is the security system that sometimes causes my truck to delay starting if I don't do that pause.

 

I'm going to take it to my local shop and have them do this. I don't think it's a spark plug or battery issue simply because it's not consistent enough. But I do need to have the battery properly tested.

I called my local dealership and they basically try to convince me over the phone that if they can't replicate the issue then they won't ever be able to know what's wrong with it. So I should leave the truck with them for a week.
Yeah no.

I'll pay for my local shop to look at it and if it's a warranty item then I'll bother with the dealer.

I didn't know about pending codes. Thanks for informing me.

 

No. That's called priming and doesn't work on any EFI systems as far as I know.

On a carb equipped vehicle, it helps give a little extra gas to help start the motor. On EFI it doesn't do anything.

 

our 4runner had its own security key but if you used the spare it would only crank but wouldnt start. So maybe he should try a different key if its got a security chip in it?

 

Where do you live? Check with your local TW members and see if anyone has an OBDii scanner (Torque, UG, or other) most can read present and pending codes.

 

If you have an Android phone I'll send you a BlueTooth OBD2 reader.

Then you can download Torque (free) and check codes yourself.

I don't have an Android any longer so it's worthless.

 

iPhone all the way here.

 

The OBDii reader isn't android specific, granted you need to have the wifi(not Bluetooth) one to work on iPhone.
ELM327 WIFI Wireless ELM327 OBD2 OBDII Auto Diagnostic Scanner Tool Adapter for Smartphone / PC / iOS / iPhone/ iPad/ iTouch /Mac https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QRE0OOA/

 

Very interested in this thread. Mine does the exact same thing. 90% of the time it works just fine...then I jump in after work and it cranks, and cranks, then stumbles and finally starts. Really embarassing when co-workers see/hear it since they know my truck is basically new. No warning lights, codes, etc. It honestly feels like it is flooded. And yes I wait a few seconds before starting, etc. So friggin' random. I did manage to get a recording of it on my phone, but it won't matter if it doesn't do it in the presence of the dealership...which I know it won't. I half wonder if it has anything to do with the emissions pump that runs so many hours after shutdown. I wonder if the pump causes some kind of vacuum (or lack of pressure) to the fuel line? I don't know.