3rd Gen DIY maintenance quick reference

2TR-FE engine:
DENSO FK20HR-A8

2GR-FKS engine:
DENSO FK20HBR8

 

Thank you

 

Any way to make the skids easier to remove for those of us who will be changing our own oil? Has anyone used any sort of quick release fastener or cut a hole in the thing for oil filter access?

 

DRIVE SHAFT U-JOINTS on 2wd
FYI - My 2016 TRD Offroad 2WD has NO Zerks on any of the U-joints. Others with 2WD Offroad and Sports reporting the same.
* Guess Toyo thinks we wont get them wet or dirty . . . Hah !!!!

 

Sub'd good stuff...

 

Thanks for this list. I used it to order all my oil change supplies and changed the oil yesterday after 2,000 miles.

 

Good catch. Updated OP, thanks.

 

Great, take a look at the OP, if you can confirm the italicized info, That'd be great.

 

Yep. All italicized info correct.

 

Sub'd

 

Guys:
On the oil change vid, he pulls the oil drain plug from the canister to drain excess oil from it before he removes the canister itself. My question: is this really necessary? Why not just remove the canister and not mess with the plastic fitting and drain hose? The down side is that you may spill a little oil. The upside is that you have one less thing to mess with and one less o-ring to leak! Your opinions count as I've learned a lot here. tia

 

That is what most people do. Plus I have heard that the Hulk puts on that plug at the factory and even if u put your ratchet in the drain plug, u end up unthreading the canister anyway.

 

Never seen anything official, but the main advantage is it's cleaner. I've also seen some concern that you do not necessarily want to leave that o-ring in there forever as it has the potential to degrade if you never changed it. What would be interesting is if somebody could do a apples to apples comparison of using vs. not using the filter drain plug to see if it changes the total amount of oil that is drained.

 

I used the plastic fitting when I changed the oil a couple of days ago. There is no need to add a hose because it just drains straight down. I'll definitely use the drain fitting again next time I change the oil as well. There was a LOT of oil that drained out of there.

It came right off with no problem at all.

Also, the oil was B.L.A.C.K.! I was a little surprised to see that after only 2,000, but, then again, I've never changed oil after only 2,000 miles before.

I'm also considering taking the angle grinder to the skid plate to cut a hole in it to be able to access the filter without having to take the skid plate off.

 

I've changed my oil once so far and I've only done it while removing the plug. I guess I was lucky cuz the plug came out easily.
I used the 5/8" ID tubing with the plastic fitting to drain it first (tubing ran directly to oil containment pan), so I don't know how messy it would have been without.

One quick note: when using the plastic fitting and tubing, firmly and quickly push the fitting into the filter housing until it snaps into place or it will leak around it and cause a mess anyway. I kind of nonchalantly pushed it up in there and there was more mess than there needed to be. As soon as that spring is pressed, the oil starts running pretty quick.

Once it all stopped draining out, I removed the filter housing and there was still a little oil that came out around the threads. I imagine that if I didn't drain it first, it would have been pretty nasty.

 

If both the plug and housing are properly torqued, this shouldn't be a problem. Having worked at an auto plant and knowing how their tooling is set up, I have somewhat of a hard time believing they're being over torqued at the factory. I think those stories come from shops and dealer techs over torquing. If you're the first person to touch it, should be good to go.

 

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Does the manual say anything about what to do if you have 2-years free service?

 

Nothin' is free

 

Any info on wipers?

 

Sub'd.
Great thread! Very handy info.