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RedTacoma88's 2012 Build

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by redtacoma88, Jun 16, 2013.

  1. Feb 11, 2016 at 2:55 PM
    #161
    ecgreen

    ecgreen overeducated redneck

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    One of my favorite builds, very nice!
     
    redtacoma88[OP] likes this.
  2. Feb 11, 2016 at 3:24 PM
    #162
    redtacoma88

    redtacoma88 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    See Build Page...
    Thanks man!
     
  3. Mar 21, 2016 at 7:10 PM
    #163
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    What up cracka! Gotta sub to this shit. Hopin to see this beast turn into the turd it's destined to be!! Haha still not a fan of red but those BF bumpers make it look badass. Love it man.
     
  4. Mar 21, 2016 at 7:20 PM
    #164
    redtacoma88

    redtacoma88 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Haha good shit! Oh don't worry more wheeling will make it that way. I'm still gonna try to convince you to try and put up a build page and I promise I'll ask plenty of questions! Haha
     
  5. Mar 21, 2016 at 7:56 PM
    #165
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    People been trying for some years now. Almost worth just making a "allmotorrex's not a build thread, just ask questions about pics from other threads" thread. Haha
     
    beertimecontinuum likes this.
  6. Mar 21, 2016 at 9:03 PM
    #166
    redtacoma88

    redtacoma88 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Haha seems like it could work! Okay so Skid plates, all I have is ifs skid.. I want to make more trips to Windrock, aop, roush creek, ect this summer... all full of rocks. What all is needed? LCA skids? Transmission Skid? Tcase? Diff skid? Gas tank skid? Or just fuck it and get them all
     
  7. Mar 21, 2016 at 9:29 PM
    #167
    beertimecontinuum

    beertimecontinuum What's outside the simulation?

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  8. Mar 22, 2016 at 4:14 AM
    #168
    beertimecontinuum

    beertimecontinuum What's outside the simulation?

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    Doooo iiiiiiit! !!!! All the cool kids are:anonymous:
     
  9. Mar 24, 2016 at 8:10 AM
    #169
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    I made a great post in the TN thread a lil while ago about this. It was after returning from AOP, which from trail head to the farthest point in the park is the rockiest park I've been to. I painted all the armor I have before going: front bumper, rear bumper, sliders, ifs skid and lca skids is what I got. When I got home I took pics of all the armor that exists and pics of places where the armor does not exist.

    Places with armor:

    Front bumper: scratched and dented. Rear bumper: barely scratched.
    Sliders: badly scratched and dented.
    Ifs skid: badly scratched and dented.
    Lca skids: badly scratched and one was ripped off the arm.

    Places without armor:

    Mid skid (where trans cross member is): barely touched, looked like it was scratched by sand particles.
    T-case skid: the stock skid that's made out of sheet metal was barely scratched, best looking armor on the truck.
    Gas tank skid: hangers barely scratched
    Rear diff skid: bottom of housing badly scratched, front bottom of pumpkin badly scratched, back center of housing badly scratched and dented.

    Of the armor I don't have ....

    Mid skid: seemingly useless but may help with peace of mind
    T-case skid: seemingly useless but may help with piece of mind
    Gas tank skid: seemingly useless but may help with piece of mind
    Rear diff skid: not "needed" for the bottom housing (already thick metal) or front of pumpkin but would def help with longevity of both. Would prove beneficial for backside of housing as metal is thinner there.

    My take away is I have all the armor I need except I'd like a plate around the back of the rear axle housing.

    If I can find that post then I'll post it in here for you
     
  10. Mar 24, 2016 at 8:36 AM
    #170
    NorthwestCruiser

    NorthwestCruiser Well-Known Member

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    My experience is just opposite for the belly skids. My IFS was minorly touched but my mid skid looked like this
    IMG_5698.jpg
    The scrapes are deeper than they look in the pic. Only had this skid on for a few wheeling trips last summer too (got it in August). Sliders definitely took the most hits and this came second. Didn't have a rear skid, diff or gas tank skid (hit the diff once and haven't hit the gas tank yet).
    I do think LCA skids are important too though for sure.
     
    redtacoma88[OP] likes this.
  11. Mar 24, 2016 at 10:42 AM
    #171
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    Yeah I'm def not gonna dispute the fact that if you put a skid plate on the belly of your truck, it will get scratched and dented. If you're hitting it then it's taking the full weight of your truck. But that's like building a flat belly then being surprised you scratched and dented it. I don't want anyone to misconstrue my points.

    Without the mid skid this is what you have .......

    242e19353d4f002231a59528348550d4_e8465eb79a76ecaf5da06b86e78e49ba8e625412.jpg

    e34a04801ce859cf75a931a1d95936c2_4f95a90e1e1d099b316c5cb0120cf5716ca5f05d.jpg

    ..... a trans support beam that is the only point on the belly that hangs lower then the frame rails. This is a pic of mine after dragging my truck through countless rock gardens and endless miles of rocky trails. I've never repainted it or touched it up. Now yes, I hit it all the time and consequently it is scratched but I have yet to find any reason to cover it up with a weaker flat piece of lower hanging metal. My trans has never been touched (visually inspecting it) and my front driveshaft has never been touched (visually inspecting it). I've also never been hung up on it. All of these reasons leave me with the question "what's the skid plate actually for?" Now I can come up with a dozen great sounding answers but at the end of the self argument I still ask the same question.

    The tcase skid seems even more irrelevant. With no aftermarket skid plate, I am left with this ......

    dbc5b95fc2e47b37a4e71f4b45c3875c_844a31e7fe0492f5a7d79a63dccd85c819040c21.jpg

    11cf4e8c5e14b39d7fcfc8a0aef480cb_160d479c0a67e62f7a7f2e4563a7e4772e214b61.jpg

    ..... a tiny little cute piece of sheet metal that boldly stands strong with no fear of being penetrated. I've never repainted it or touched it up. I've never even removed it from the tcase before. And it looks fantastic!! Now if this little sweet guy can protect my tcase then why would I add a lower hanging flat piece of metal to cover it up? I once again am left with the question "what's the skid plate actually for?"
     
  12. Mar 24, 2016 at 11:02 AM
    #172
    redtacoma88

    redtacoma88 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Guys thank you for all the info. I think I'm gonna say diff skid and LCA skids next! Eventually like Gid said I'll add the transmission, t case skid, and gas tank skid for peace of mind but Based on all this info I'm not gonna let the fact that Ill be missing the transmission and t case skid for a while stop me from hitting harder trails. I guess it's the mentaliy I don't want to buy something unless I have been in a situation where I would have benefited for it. The only reason I bought a aftermarket front and rear bumper was after cracking the front and smashing the back Offroad.
     
  13. Mar 24, 2016 at 3:49 PM
    #173
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    Yeah I'm the same. I like things to function and be able to prove they function. I'm not at all saying Brian is wrong or dumb for having a mid skid, I'm just showing you my proof of never feeling the "need" for one. Any preventative maintenance is never a bad idea, that doesn't mean it's necessary though. I'm gonna be building a driveshaft skid soon because, although I've hit it before, I finally fucked up my shaft enough to where I have to get it re-tubed. Only took 8 years. Haha
     
    NorthwestCruiser likes this.
  14. Mar 24, 2016 at 4:25 PM
    #174
    beertimecontinuum

    beertimecontinuum What's outside the simulation?

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    My mid and transfer case skids have been leaning in my shed since AOP :anonymous:

    If I had them installed I might have tried to cross that log in our path though. Probably wouldnt have made it over but it would have been a good time either way
     
    redtacoma88[OP] likes this.
  15. Mar 24, 2016 at 4:35 PM
    #175
    redtacoma88

    redtacoma88 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ahh you dont need them!! I'm happy to take them off your hands
     
  16. Mar 24, 2016 at 4:41 PM
    #176
    redtacoma88

    redtacoma88 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Agreed. Is a driveshaft skid even a thing? I've always thought that was a weak spot that just says exposed and gets replaced when it is damaged.
     
  17. Mar 24, 2016 at 4:53 PM
    #177
    beertimecontinuum

    beertimecontinuum What's outside the simulation?

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    Not sure what he's doing but I'm doing a traction bar that will follow the same profile as my drive shaft and hopefully maintain its straight virgin alignment.
     
  18. Mar 24, 2016 at 4:56 PM
    #178
    beertimecontinuum

    beertimecontinuum What's outside the simulation?

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    I'm going to hold on to them for now lol, just in case of zombies. Theit intestines hang on anything and everything when you run them down. Might save me some time during clean up :cheers:
     
  19. Mar 24, 2016 at 6:12 PM
    #179
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    It's a weak spot but really only exposed when climbing something and laying your belly on the edge of the top. That's leaves your driveshaft to pull over it until your back tires begin to bring the back of your truck up. Example A: all driveshaft

    https://youtu.be/n60o_b7lEBI
    Yeah it will serve as a trac bar as well. I have a vision of 1 attachment point at the top using a swing shackle as the mount and a heim on the end of the bar attaching to it so it has forward and backwards motion when drooping/compressing the axle and side to side movement when articulating. Running that tube down to an attachment point at the bottom of the housing on a truss then attaching a bar a foot or so up the trac bar to an attachment point on a truss on the top of the axle, creating a triangle at the axle.
     
  20. Nov 23, 2016 at 4:50 PM
    #180
    TXOverland

    TXOverland Well-Known Member

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    Love the build! Do you happen to remember what size tires you had on before the 295's?
     

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