Lifted '16 Tacomas

Here's mine with Icon Stage 3, TRD Pro wheels and 285 70 r17 BFG KO2s.

 

Nice truck.

 

Not really a question, more of an update on my build. Put a tuff country 6 inch kit on with lots of upgrades with King coilovers and other things, but had issues rubbing the sway bar links and nobody could come up with a good fix. So I ended up buying some smaller and narrower tires. Also just a little info on the Toyo Tires in case anyone was interested in those for their truck.

 

Did you put on a sway at relocator

 

I didn't install, I had someone do it. I don't think it came with one. I know the sway bar ends up above the tie rod with the kit installed. The factory links are used. Called fabtech and the said new links come with thete kit. Tuff Country said everything looked like it was installed correctly from all the pictures we sent them. No answer on why it's not worked on my truck.

 

No the sway bar relocator goes on the front and moves the sway bar forward which helps eliminate tire rub on the sway bar. Tomorrow I'll take a pic of mine so you can see it.

 

Actually I just remembered they are like little shim blocks, and it was worse with them on so we took them off and the sway bar moved back a little bit and it helped a lot which Tuff country knows about. Possibly didn't need them because something to do with the bracket that holds the remote res. of the king coilovers I guess.

 

Did you make sure they didn't install the backwards. That's the only way I would think it would make it worse

 

Here you can see it. The silver block. It moves the sway bar more to the front which gives the tire room.

 

I think the picture above without the tire on is when we had thre relocate shims on. Tuff country said that link should be farther back towards the spindle and they sent us a picture of what it should look like, so we removed the relocation shims which moved the sway bar farther back so it looked more like they said it should and it helped. With the relocations in, it made it rub at about 3/4 turn. Without them didn't rub till almost full turn.

 

I see them. On the Tuff country setup you can see that the sway bar links are up above the tie rod so it's a little different setup. The sway bar is actually up high instead of down low. And I don't know why it work better without them but in order to get more clearance to sway bar link, we had to go back not forward so we removed them and like I said it helped. Never got a good answer from TUFF country why that would be the case. They are very frustrating to deal with at least they have been IMHO.

 

Good questions though and I'm actually going to throw them back at Tuff country next week again because doesn't make sense that it works better with out there relocation brackets. And I never got a good answer on why that would be. Thanks for your help and I will let you know what I find out if they give me any answers!. I guess I don't think the truck looks so bad with the smaller tires. Just hope I can get most of the money back out of the other tires so they ain't just sitting around. Probably get a little better gas mileage with them anyway have to look on the bright side I guess.

 

Bro your lift is making my brain hurt. It makes no sense everything you've tried and explained. Tuff country seems to be contributing to the problem. I have an idea but I'm going to PM you.

 

Ok, thanks. It's been making my brain hurt for 4 weeks now!

 

Here is the picture Tuff Country said it should look like. That link should be back almost to the steering knuckle. If you look at the picture I had posted of mine, it was forward too far. Removing their relocate bracket moved it farther back to what their picture looks like. Don't know why that made any sense other than the bracket holding the remote res on the king coilovers but I'm not sure that that even affected it.

 

So I Installed a fox stage one suspension kit, had an alignment done and everything looked good. Ran that for about a week and no problems. I got a diff drop kit in the mail and installed that on Thursday...I've now noticed a whirring sound coupled with slight vibration from the driver side diff/wheel area. At around the 90kmh range. It seems to go away when I go into 4x4. I'm sort of freaking out right now that I've screwed up the diff... any advice? I'm worried I now will have to pay big $ to fix this :s

 

That would be the bearings. Pretty common issue, but there is an aftermarket fox with the ecgs bushings. Now, the dealer "may" fiddle with this and replace the part however the aftermarket bushings are much better and will be a more long term solution

 

Which bearings are you talking about Jerry? Wheel or diff? It's a brand new truck, how are they possibly worn already? Warrenty will cover it?

 

5100's @ .85, OME 887's, and Wheelers AAL.
285/70/17 Kelly Safari TSR

 

Diff. Technically the warranty should cover it, however the dealer is without question going to blame the lift and increased angle applied to the cv's. That said, the burden of proof is on them. There's actually a tsb floating around somewhere for that specific part. I know it's been posted somewhere on the forum so if you can dig that up, it'd definitely be worth bringing that with you and showing it to your service advisor. I had the same problem with my 05 and was able to get them to replace it under warranty. Took a little fighting though