Interesting braking issue

*Caliper Mounting Bolt

 

OP's sig says he has a Prerunner which is a six lug and has fixed calipers.

The image you posted above is a five lug Tacoma which does have a floating caliper.

Apples and Oranges.

The Six Lug looks more like this, where the caliper doesn't move:

 

Sub'd

 

I had my 2015 at the dealer for the 10k service and asked them to take a look at what I thought might be warped rotors because I had front-end vibration when braking. They confirmed the rotors were warped and recommended front rotors and pads. After several conversations with the service manager (including them making a call to their Corporate rep), they agreed to a goodwill repair at no cost to me.

Now at 16k I'm noticing a bit of vibration from time to time. I'm hopeful it doesn't get worse as I get closer to 20k.

I don't drive the truck hard. Heavy braking isn't part of my driving style and I've not had this problem with previous cars or trucks, including other Toyotas. Sharing this in case other late model Gen2 owners are seeing the same issue.

 

I had this problem with my 2006 SR5 4x4. The calipers had stuck corroded inner pistons on both sides. New calipers, rotors, pads and a fluid flush and it still had a light shudder. Pulled the rear drums off and found the shoes needed adjustment and servicing. With that done the truck felt much more confident and level when braking, no more shudder. Seems the front brakes were doing 100% of the work.

 

It only gets worse, I just replaced mine with an ebc kit Thursday night. I love my truck again, Doesnt vibrate the steering wheel and your arm to death when braking now. Hopefully the ebc kit will hold up better then the oem units.

 

ah didn't notice that.

 

are you guys just riding your brakes downhill or something? 35k on mine no issues, moms 4 runner (which has the same front brakes as our 6 luggers) 105k on original pads n rotors, rotors were not warped, but figured while i was in there changing pads, for the extra 120-150 bucks ill replace the oem rotors as well.


The shifter in the center of your console can be moved below D ya kno, to help with big downhills....

 

Yeah, that must be it. Thanks for the incredible advice.

 

A stuck caliper can make things overheat and cause warping, but in my experience the biggest cause is the incompetent tech who doesn't torque the wheel studs properly and evenly. Today's rotors are crap, very thin, there isn't much room for error. Most rotors can't even be cut once because there isn't enough meat there. A yahoo with an impact wrench can have your pedal pulsating in no time. I let them know up front on the rare occasion I even let anyone touch my wheel studs, HAND TORQUE ONLY!!! Here in PA we have state inspection, I can't completely avoid letting someone mess with the lugs,

 

One of my friends is that guy who always has "bad rotors". He'll get his brakes serviced, and several thousand miles later he'll have the braking vibes. He never downshifts even though we travel a lot on mountain highways with the trucks loaded. I've always had manual trans trucks, while he's always had autos since I've known him. I tried explaining it years ago, but it fell on deaf ears. The best part is that he's pretty mechanically inclined. Oh well.

 

exactly.... hell even the auto trans tries to help by downshifting for you, but often times its not enough. Obviously im not downshifting my auto every stop, but on a long downhill... popping her in 4th, sometimes 3rd or even 2nd depending on how steep the grade is helps ALOT.