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DIY: How To Replace An Output Shaft Seal

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by NorCalTRD, Mar 26, 2013.

  1. Feb 26, 2016 at 12:37 PM
    #41
    beavis87

    beavis87 Well-Known Member

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    Wow wish I had found that earlier. Is that stickied? If not, it should be. Also I realized this was was for 2wd tacos without a transfer case. I have one and I was a bit confused. It's good now, I found a good write up for the transfer case output seal here: Inner and outer seals plus nut was $21.91 at my dealer.
     
  2. Mar 22, 2016 at 1:16 PM
    #42
    NikoVee

    NikoVee you're a towel

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    Soo i just received the double lip seal from TRDsparks (easy to navigate site, good prices, really good communication) and it looks like there are two sides to the seal - one side has a thin inner lip, the other side the inner lip is thicker and appears to have a spring of some sort on the OD of inner lip..what's the correct orientation when installing??
     
  3. Mar 22, 2016 at 1:20 PM
    #43
    trdNick

    trdNick Odie

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    New double lip seal in place, spring to the inside.

    65E7971D-F2F0-46AD-9E76-A6A37B18C782_zps_475707793e9c2c109d152707ec11b9e9aae87a28.jpg
     
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  4. Mar 25, 2016 at 1:37 PM
    #44
    hecsys_

    hecsys_ Member

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    Does somebody knows where to find the missing pictures?
     
  5. Mar 25, 2016 at 1:40 PM
    #45
    NikoVee

    NikoVee you're a towel

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    I too was looking for the missing pictures but after reading it several times, coupled with reading up on replacing u joints/carrier bearing and tranny flush, it just kinda started to make sense. only thing I wish I had was the first picture where he's talking about orientating the driveshaft. planning on doing the change tomorrow, ill try to get some shots of the process.
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2016
  6. Mar 25, 2016 at 1:51 PM
    #46
    hecsys_

    hecsys_ Member

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    You
    You can see the first three pictures in here: http://s684.photobucket.com/user/t_wired/media/IMG_5712.jpg.html


    Seeing other posts helped me pictured, I also have a friend that worked for Toyota and told me it is really easy but time consuming. "Make sure you mark the drive shaft (white sharpie) so it goes back easy", also remember to leave it in neutral so you have more play when is time to put the shaft back. I will order the seal ring today from the dealer.

    Thanks.
     
  7. Mar 25, 2016 at 1:59 PM
    #47
    NikoVee

    NikoVee you're a towel

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    my main concern is the carrier bearing, namely im worried about re-securing and not messing up the centering. Im not sure how much play there is in the positioning, but after reading so many issues relating to lifts and driveline vibration, im a bit worried about screwing it up. guess we'll see!

    and thanks for the link, i guess i was referring to the 1st picture of the process where he's talking about orientating the ujoints in a particular fashion - which is technically the second picture. good luck with your swap!
     
  8. Mar 25, 2016 at 2:08 PM
    #48
    hecsys_

    hecsys_ Member

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    pictures are there, you can see the left and right arrows on the sides of the picture... here is the link of what you are referring to: http://s684.photobucket.com/user/t_wired/media/IMG_5711b.jpg.html

    I won't worry about the carrier bearing, use a sharpie to mark the exact location and also lowered with a floor jack and let it rest on jack stands.
     
  9. Mar 25, 2016 at 5:05 PM
    #49
    SKULLY

    SKULLY Well-Known Member

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    Did this a couple of weeks ago and it is really pretty simple. I marked the drive shaft location and carrier bearing bolts and took a couple of pics for reference just to make sure everything went back in place. Drive shaft slide right out, old seal came right out, new seal tapped right in and shaft slide right back in. Only took about 40 mins and no more drip. Can't believe the dealership would charge $400 for this...no actually I can.
     
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  10. Mar 25, 2016 at 7:26 PM
    #50
    hecsys_

    hecsys_ Member

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    Is there a spring too or just the seal? I order the seal this afternoon from the dealership and I never ask them if there is a inner spring or not. I am planning to do a transmission fluid and filter change too at the same time.
     
  11. Mar 25, 2016 at 7:34 PM
    #51
    NikoVee

    NikoVee you're a towel

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    the spring is in the inner lip of the seal, at least on the double lip one that replaces the old single lip
     
  12. Mar 25, 2016 at 8:01 PM
    #52
    hecsys_

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    I will check tomorrow when the seal arrives. Thank you!
     
  13. Mar 26, 2016 at 4:06 PM
    #53
    NikoVee

    NikoVee you're a towel

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    how deep is the new seal supposed to sit? fsm states 5.4-.8mm but I think that's for the old seal. are the two seals the same width? I'm having a hard time getting seating it properly
     
  14. Mar 26, 2016 at 10:05 PM
    #54
    hecsys_

    hecsys_ Member

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    I believe is 5.8mm, the new seal has double lip... that is the only different. I used a harborfreight caliper and mine went in to almost 6mm (this caliper is not made in Germany) so given the play I will say for sure 5.8 to 6mm.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2016
  15. Mar 26, 2016 at 11:08 PM
    #55
    NikoVee

    NikoVee you're a towel

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    damn really? mine was sticking out a couple mm, I figured that was the difference in width. I spent a good hour or so just trying to tap the damn thing in place. I just finished doing the tranny flush, gonna take it for a long drive tomorrow and see if it leaks. might have to order another seal and do it over again. I used a 1-1/2 pvc union to drive it in but i might order the sst just to make sure I'm doing it right..
     
  16. Mar 27, 2016 at 3:34 PM
    #56
    hecsys_

    hecsys_ Member

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    Unfortunately I didn't caliper the pocket, I was too tired given the situation that I also drop the tranny pan and I replace the strainer, gasket and oil after fixing the seal problem. What I did was to tap it with a 1 1/2" pvc couplet (union) using a hammer, slowly all around the edges. I am not sure if it need to seat all the way down so, I will be checking for leaks also to make sure I did positioned the seal properly. I didn't use any grease, some people recommend to use a little bit on the edges to make the job easier. Check for leaks, I read that if the seal is not sitting properly it will break again. I believe that as long as it sits straight you shouldn't worry about it. I also spoke with a toyota master tech and he told me that leaks start when the oil is too old and loose viscosity, tranny oil is thick and get thin when is dirty and old make it more prompt to leaks. The original seal in my truck wasn't broken, the only problem was that the spring ring stretched and fail to hold tranny fluid.
     
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  17. Mar 27, 2016 at 5:01 PM
    #57
    NikoVee

    NikoVee you're a towel

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    yea I tried greasing it up a bit but that didn't seem to help much. no leaks yet but the real test will be a week of commuting. I also dropped the pan and changed the strainer, went smooth except for the part where I dropped the strainer into the bucket of atf and ended up spilling a good cup or two of fluid. I switched to amsoil and it might just be me but I feel the tranny shifts much smoother now
     
  18. Mar 27, 2016 at 7:44 PM
    #58
    hecsys_

    hecsys_ Member

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    It will definitely change how smooth the tranny sifts no matter what kind of fluid you use. I went with the toyota brand. My tranny used to give me little kicks after stopping now all those symptoms are gone!
    I will schedule a full system fluid flash later on before summer, I only change 4.5qt of fluid and if I'm not mistaken tacomas take about 14-15qts.
     
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  19. Mar 28, 2016 at 12:31 PM
    #59
    NikoVee

    NikoVee you're a towel

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  20. Apr 5, 2016 at 2:26 PM
    #60
    hecsys_

    hecsys_ Member

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