Closed (for now): Group Buy: IEDLS Polyurethane Carrier Bearing

Sooo why do I need this? This would just be like installing polyurethane bushings into anything else?

 

Well my carrier has 250K on it and I suspect that this is part of my clunk/rattle issue. The poly is an upgrade to the OEM in my opinion.

 

thanks Benjamin, Looking forward to the pics.

 

Thanks for the update.

As an FYI. It has already been discussed and established that the bearing being used in these assembly's are sealed units, so there will be no issues.

 

Note - I followed the DIY in 1st gen - HERE

My steps:

1. Mark all driveshaft alignments with sharpie/paint-marker/"Hello Kitty" fingernail polish.


2. Measure crossbar mount for carrier bearing (I measured the span of 7")



3. Realized I DIDN'T have PB Blaster, down to O'Reilly's for a can (wasted an hour on that one).

4. Used 2 14MM wrenches (one straight and one hooked) on the carridan (whatever it is called) and the center carrier bearing flange. Support rear driveshaft with jack stand.

5. Used 14MM socket to loosen the center carrier bearing support bolts. Support front driveshaft with jack stand.



6. Challenge #1 - beat the "$" out of the carridan with a hammer and PB Blaster. Couldn't get the right angle. Started truck, shifted to 'R' quickly and then to 'P' (see photo above). Wasted about an hour on this one until I figured it out.

7. Once Flat bar is cut, verify length against cross member support. Use painters blue tape about 9", attach to cut flat bar, mark tape with sharpie at end of bar, remove tap, center tape lines on outer ends of cross member support, use center carrier bearing bolts to poke holes in tape, transfer tape to flat bar, use small drill bit to create small pilot hole, drill main hole with 3/8" drill bit and then hog it out and round it out, bolt should slide in/out with ease, test fit by mounting with bolts to cross member support, hog out with drill bit as necessary (I had to do this three times), paint as needed with rust proof paint.

8. Challenge #2 - un-key the keyed main nut. Mark the alignment on the flange with the keyed section using sharpie/paint marker/"Hello Kitty" fingernail polish. Screwdriver with hammer = fail. PB Blast again so as nut would be "easy". Finally used a nail countersink that moved the keyed main nut = decent enough to proceed. Didn't have a breaker bar so I used the handle of my hi-lift as leverage = came off with ease!



9. Prep for new carrier bearing:
remove nut, remove washer, remove flange (mine came off with ease but I was prepared with a bearing puller, just in case), remove additional washer, remove trashed carrier bearing (with a test spin to verify - grinding and squeaking). I marked with fingernail polish on the flange where the keyed section. Clean up shaft, clean out flange splines, etc.

10. Slide new poly carrier bearing on to shaft. It was tight, so tight that I thought about using ice on the shaft and some heat on the bearing, but I didn't. After cleaning the shaft again, then a light coating of oil, slid on as expected. See heater in the background.



11. Mount new poly center bearing to cross member support with new flat bar between bearing and cross member support (note - flat end with ring is positioned to the rear; pointed end with sharp lip pointed towards transmission/front). With the cross member in the way, there was no option to invert or raise up the position. I torqued to 27 ft/lb and it seemed more than enough. I was concerned about stripping this as I lent out my tap/dye set and have yet to receive it back...



12. Tighten flange nut to shaft - 134ft/lb then back off/loose then 51ft/lb = Done!

13. Jack up rear axle, place jack stands under. Turn rear wheels until alignment marks on carridian flange and center bearing flange line up, install 4 bolts and tighten = Done!



I completely overthought the entire process.
If/when I have to do this again, it will be much easier for me.

 

Very nice! Great job on the 1st gen write up!

Vibe free now? Feel more confident than before?

 

I'm only at 37k for now - I'll keep this subbed

 

Mileage literally means nothing. The stock CB sucks and they traded reliability for less NVH by using crappy rubber.

Sub if you'd like, but when you get vibes you may find yourself regretting not doing this sooner.

 

I'll keep it in mind - poor college kid can't buy shit right now/doesn't have the right tools for the job because he's broke-flat-broke

 

Very understandable. This site is the money pit for everyone. It keeps me coming back for more also. Lol.

 

I can tell you that the vib is reduced with the caveat that I think there are other issues.
The IEDLS bearing "feels" better (if there is such a thing)
The OEM one is crap, IMO.

 

Current inquiring members: As per Jeff IEDLS, a third round group buy is on indefinite hold until they can clear up the large wave of orders which they were hit with. They will let me know when they are ready to resume the GB. Thank you.

 

Some how my username ended up on both round one and 2 list....

 

Does that mean that there is an extra one floating around? I talked to Jeff this morning and he said they are a few weeks from getting more, which is a complete bummer because mine is shot and I need one ASAP

 

Call and ask Him to pay for the one of mine thats on the first list.... Per email this morning he asked if I wanted 2 or if I just wanted the one I paid for online.... So if you can grab my spot on the first one go ahead!

 

Okay. I'll correct that issue. Monkeyproof sounds like he needs it immediatrly, so others will have to take the backseat for a bit.

I'll add you to the second list.

 

If you need it ASAP you can take my spot as well. If the spot Chris has open isn't there for some reason. If you're DCSB even better.

 

@ROK-NJA you have been added to GB number 2.

 

I got it covered guys.

 

This needs a new thread or a sticky or something. It will get lost in a GB.