The Getaway...Crom's build and adventures

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The cabin air filter of mine is a cleanable one. ANd I use the K&N oil on it. lol

 

My hat is off to you for your success. I tried and butchered the custom made one so badly. lol Many years ago, but still remember, haha

 

I started using scissors and then said screw it grabbed the K-Bar and a cutting block and angrily chopped it up and it worked

 

@Crom - are these the same wheels? I'm gonna shamelessly copy you, since you did all the homework. Also, my lift is with a 884X, not 885X as yours. I believe it's only 1/2" lift difference. Will I still be able to accomodate your current tire size? Maybe Cooper 285/85/16. Thanks.

 

You wrote 285, but I think you mean 255. If you meant 255/85/R16, and get the Cooper, I don't think you need different wheels. Lots of folks run them with no rubbing problems, they are smaller in size which is why. Not all 255 are identical between manufacturers. The Toyos I have are spec at 33.5, which is why they rubbed everything.

Yes those are them in the link.

 

Yes. I meant 255/85/R16.
I thought I needed 4.5" backspacing for these size tires. I'm glad I don't need them.
I love your thread and your advice is always good. Thanks again.

 

Thanks. You're welcome. Yes you should be fine with the Coopers.

 

My Hi-Lift gets used a lot. I use it in regular vehicle maintenance on the truck. One day I'll have a suitable floor jack, but post lift, it hasn't happened yet.

Anyways, I broke the spring on my Hi-Lift and ordered a new one from Hi-Lift. I was lucky and they sent me two for the price of one! lol What a come up!



Here it is, installed on the jack. Yay.



It's hard to get excited about a stupid spring, but the spring is actually an important part for safe practice of hi-lift operation.

Pictured below is the incorrect method for the jack handle, but since it was low pressure operation, safety concern was decreased.
You can see the bit of velcro I was using when the spring broke. And in the picture, I'm not even using it.


This is the right way. Jack handle is secured to beam by spring clip, when not jacking, and jack is in lifting position.

 

Crom- is this the same Green ignition wire that you used for the Anytime Foglight Mod?

 

Nice rig! Subd for some ideas

 

i agree, when i put on my used Relentless steel rear we gave it the old heave ho (highly accurate...) 'which one feels heavier' test and they seemed pretty close to the same(stock with hitch vs Relentless with hidden hitch. after landing on it a couple of times since i'm glad it is steel not aliminium

 

DVexile said: ↑
So I'm not done with my OBA just yet, but I'm taking a slightly different approach. Rather than running a permanent hose to the front or the back where I would then attach another hose to run all the way back past the compressor to the opposite tire I'll just flip the seat forward and connect directly to the pump when airing up (and actually the hose will be stored there already connected). The seat will thus be open while the compressor is running and there should be plenty of cooling. I've got a housing (more of a shroud as it is open on one side) to put the compressor in so that nothing else stored behind the seat can come in contact with hot parts of the compressor.

None of that will happen until next week at the earliest though, I'll post results in my "not as cool as Crom's" build thread.

I did a test fit this weekend. Wifey thinks it looks cool.

 

Crom - Thanks for the materials list. I just ordered everything on this list and I hope to work on reducing the interior noise of my truck over the upcoming months (I tend to have the itch to do something late weeknights.) Because I just pulled the plastic bins, my first priority is the storage area behind the rear seats and the rear pillars. Based on your experience, what would be the next. Roof, rear doors, then front doors? I want to prioritize because I noticed you ran out of stuff on the last stretch of your sound deadening series. LOL.
Thanks again. Lloyd

 

Welcome. I'd do the front doors, after the back, then rear doors and roof last.

Soon I'll write a comprehensive review of all the benefits I've noticed since completing the project. I think about it often. It's incredibly rewarding and well worth the effort.

Yessir!

Thanks!

Appreciated! I Drooled all-over five other built armored rigs for three days on the trail this last weekend. I can't wait to finally get some.

Looks good!

I'm loving the twin compressor. It puts out so much air. On Sunday I used it with the air Chuck to blow the dust off the back of the rig which was covered in a fine powder after three days and 100+ miles of trail.

I also did something terrible with my OBA. I let a friend use it.

So fast!

@ETAV8R used it to air up. Pretty sure I saw an ear to ear smile from him.

 

@Crom I picked up either 3 or 4 boxes of this when the GB was open.... Hopefully its enough to do the rear wall and roof and floor and then probably a second layer on the rear and then the doors if any is left.

 

Crom, is your list that Subway 4x4 quoted the "I ran out of stuff at the end list", comprising your original order?
Did it get you through all the doors and the back, just not the roof?
Did you go nuclear like Steve and do all the stuff he did to the doors?

 

I'm sure it's very good. I looked at that stuff, I believe it's thicker than the stuff I used, but I could not make a direct comparison to other products. Most of the butyl mat on the market will specify the thickness, but also very important to me is density per sq foot--If I know that, then I can compare.

I have to give a slightly long answer to your question, hope you don't mind.

My stated goal in treating the interior was to block noise. And the best material for that is mass loaded vinyl (MLV), which is both very dense, and limp, two very important qualities in a sound blocker material.

The foil-backed-butyl-mat product, commonly referred to as "deadner" or "damper" or "mat" we're currently discussing is primarily used for adding density to sheet metal to change it's resonance frequency. In layman's terms, were adding weight to the sheet metal so that shit wont vibrate at higher pitched sound waves.

I think it's important to understand that, because the manner in which I used the product is different from what an audio shop might do to a customers car who paid for this service.

All that said, and with respect to the doors, what I did was attempt 100% coverage of the outter skin with the butyl mat, then I covered that with layer with 100% coverage of frost king duct insulation. Then I sealed the inner door skin and applied some mat in small strips, but my goal now was not 100% coverage, more like 20%, which would be consistent perhaps with what an audio shop would do. I then applied some foam to the door which helps isolate the 4 lb. of MLV sound barrier I cut, and hung on the door. Some modders will stick the foam to the MLV barrier to make a sandwich layer. I just did mine a little different.

The cumulative effect for me, is that each door is about 8-10 lbs heavier than stock. That's money in the door, as I like to say.

I applied a similar strategy for the portion of back wall I've done. 100% coverage mat, 100% foam, then MLV sound barrier.

For the roof, I have a flat roof rack above the cab and at about 70 mph it makes a little bit of wind noise. I attempted 100% coverage of the roof with mat above the front two seats, then covered that with some frost king. For the middle and back of the roof, I just spaced out some mat in strategic sections to go with what a typical audio shop would do, changing the resonance of the panel, then I put some reflectix insulation for good measure, since I ran out of frost king, to help with insulation / heat reduction.

So back in October I bought 36 sq.ft of butyl mat, which was not enough, and I ended up buying another batch of 18 sq.ft of the same stuff.

If you are serious about blocking noise, don't skip the MLV sound barrier. It really is the best tool for the job.

I feel like my truck now has a better interior than a $100K luxury vehicle would from the factory. Especially since I installed secondary axillary door seals to help stop wind noise, just like the 2016 Tacoma's have.

Additionally, I'm not sure when it's going to happen, because I'm tired, and happy with the results thus far, but in theory, I'd like to pull the back 60 side seat out and finish the back wall and pass side "C" pillar to complete the project and further enhance my personal sound studio.

And since I'm this deep into a post, I'll do the pros and cons list I've been thinking about.

Pros of sound proofing.

• My truck is now the most quiet vehicle I have ever experienced.
  
• Very satisfying incredible feeling of luxury interior when door are opened, closed or handled due to extra mass.
  
• My window door lift motor used to sound like T-Rex, now they sound like a purring cat when the window goes up or down.
• Door lock actuators, unlocking, or locking, slight clicking sound is heard.
• Road noise severely muted.
• When I'm rolling down the interstate at 70-80, I can't tell I have mud terrain tires. And if the sound system is playing at about volume 15, playing an mp3, I can not hear any truck noise at all, only the music.
  
• The JBL factory sound system sounds 3x better than it ever did. Truly amazing improvement.
• Wind noise from roof rack is still audible, but attenuated. I'd say in my case about 30% reduction, not as much as I hoped for, but still very happy.
• As a side note, I think my factory mirrors make a tiny little bit of wind noise due to how they are attached to the door... Going to look into that...

Cons:

• Doors are 8-10 lbs heavier, so more effort is required to open close, especially on hills.
• Care must be taken with doors, so that hinges and stops aren't damaged if door gets away from hand.
• Very time consuming to complete.

Lastly, I feel like a video is in order to demonstrate the benefits. I can spend all day writing about it, but listening to the changes through the changes in sound speaks more than I could ever write. I'll try to make one soon.

 

hey nick any pics of your oba? Its not linked in the list of stuff you've done. Not sure the page you have it posted to

 

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