What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Thanks for the help. Appreciate it!

 

Performed my first oil change. Installed a Fumitomo drain valve.
It looks like I didnt really need it, there is a hole through the shield, so I dont know how "messy" it would be without a line running to it. Oh well.

Had tons of fun putting together shield. I thought I read I could do it by attaching either front or rear first, then hooking up, but no go.
I put it together on the ground, tightened the two bolts that connect them.

Then when assembling realized (I think) that the 2 long bolts should be the connecting bolts between the shield pieces.
So I ended up in the end with the bolts 3 short/2 long/2 short, from front to back.

I am debating how to set up lights/switches. I am thinking I will get:

Auxbeam 3" LED Light Bar 20w LED Pods Fog Lights Square Cube Lights Spot Beam Driving Light for Offroad Truck 4WD SUV ATV UTV Waterproof (4D Projector Hyperspot)

Auxbeam 3" LED Light Bar 20w LED Pods Fog Lights Square Cube Lights Spot Beam Driving Light for Offroad Truck 4WD SUV ATV UTV Waterproof (4D Projector Hyperspot)

Auxbeam 4 Inch 20W PHILIPS Square LED Fog Light Spotlight (4D Projector Hyperspot)
x2 for the front bumper

Auxbeam 5" 10W LED Light Bar Flood LEDs Work Light for Pickup Offroad SUV ATV Vehicles Car

Auxbeam® 5" 10W Led Work Light Bar Flood PHILIPS LEDs for Pickup Offroad SUV ATV Vehicles Car Ford f150
x2 for the rear bumper

And something else for the bed.
Using the Paranoid Fabrication 4 bay switch plate for the ashtray is a long reach.
I dont know if I want a 6 bay in one of the DIN slots.

The former owner put 1 switch in the fuse box access panel on the left.
I dont think a 3 slot will fit on the panel.

I know I want to get a dual USB, but there is a switch size one I can mount in the spare horizontal slot, the far one of the 2 to the right under the ashtray.

I need to think on all this...


I ordered headlights and belts from RockAuto. 2 of the 3 are Bandos, which I understand are OEM, Gates for the other.
I ordered a bumper filler trim piece for underneath the right headlight, it was missing when I got the truck and only 1.95.
I went for the TYC CAPA certified headlights for $41 a pop.
I will return the unopened $30 Rain-x headlight restoration kit to Pep-Boys.


I ordered a washer pump and line kit for the RAV-4, I have been doing without it, I can get away with that in no-snow Texas (Houston) and I didnt want to remove the wheel well liner to get at the pump on the RAV-4.
I was going to order a fender for the RAV-4, but paying $59 for a $29 fender seemed insane.

 

I have very little pictures, that go along with my little build thread. I don't know how to make a build thread picture thing like you guys, but its in there somewhere!!

 

ahahah sounds good bud! I'll find it lol

 

Washed, clay barred, and waxed her today. Much better. Oh and cleaned up the cover for my rtt. It was filthy.
20160404_192748 by Jeremy Pabst, on Flickr

 

What about a a high amp disconnect for the run away scenario?

http://www.littelfuse.com/products/switches/battery-disconnect-switches.aspx

 

Second one down would work.

 

While they would work, I really don't see a reason for it. In order for it to be truly effective it would have to be mounted under the dash or somewhere readily accessible. Under hood, might not be able to get the hood open in time, if at all. And the wire run would increase as well as the resistance.

I understand the safety conscience aspect to the thinking here but in reality the safest bet is straight to the battery, and keep the little plastic cap on the controller receptacle when not in use.

Doing fancy switch wiring to the window controls in the door is asking for trouble. While they are technically doing it right, shorts happen. This is the main cause of "runaways", not a short in the winch but a short in somebody's wiring attempt.

A breaker inline with the alternator is a neat idea until the battery is drained and then the alt starts to dump amps back into the battery, tripping the breaker...

That one is personal preference. Personally, I would never run any of that. Straight connections to battery and alternator and you won't have any problems.

Unless you are towing vehicles for a living, most winch recovery scenarios are short, no measurable heat is generated in the battery or winch.
I've done some really long stupid pulls in the snow in the past and never had a problem.

There will always be "that one time" but most often it was due to installation error

 

I have the same problem with one of my brackets....i used heavy duty zip ties till i get off my lazy ass and create a legit bracket....maybe at the sac mod day i'll git-er-dun

 

This definitely reassure my ability of hooking my winch up lol!

 

I totally hear what you are saying about adding resistance. That is a a concern. I don't think I would add much to the run though. I would not want to run high amps into and back out of the cab for instance.

If I were to do it, I would put it right on the bumper adding almost nothing to the run. Maybe on top of the bumper out of harms way but with easy access. Definitely not under the hood. I have already moved the controller switch plug into the cab so I don't have to have the hood open when I winch.

http://www.littelfuse.com/products/switches/battery-disconnect-switches/tr.aspx

This one has the added benefit of an IP69 rating. Out there in front, I think I'd want a little more "water-proofness" to have it exposed on top of the bumper.

In the mean time, I will keep the shears handy. In the worst-case scenario, I can always cut the rope.

 

So this is a battery cutoff switch for the winch correct? Will it just be off when you are not using the winch?

 

Anyone have a wiring diagram for a 96 distributor 3rz? I'm having a no start issue and can't find much online. Figured I'd check here before making a thread

 

Yeah, placed between the battery and the winch. It could be off whenever the winch is not in use too but I was thinking it would primarily be a safety switch in the event the winch contractor wont disengage.

 

Hmmm I see connected to the hot wire correct?

 

Interrupting either the positive or the negative will do the trick. It does not have to be both.

The switch I linked is actually a dual pole so it is capable of doing both at the same time but in this application, that isn't really necessary. I chose to link that particular switch because of it's continuous amp rating, it's IP rating, it is black and its the one Monte said would work.

 

I have the FSM for a 96 which likely includes some info. But otherwise you'd have to check one of those mechanics sites the give that stuff out.

 

Little off topic right now but...Does anyone have or know of a "how to thread" for replacing the 5 speed manual shifter seat and socket? I Was looking to get the marlin crawler set-up soon. Did some searching but have not had to much luck. Thanks.

 

Hmm didn't think it would do anything on the ground end! Good to know!

 

I did it, super easy. There is a decent instructables thing for it that I used. Really don't need to know much else except that you should make sure the hole the new bushing seat will sit in is nice and free of particulate from the old seat before setting the new one in.

Here's a decent link to doing the job...
http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/shift-lever-seat-replacement-18543.html

Here's a pic of how terrible mine was...

Dirty...

Clean and greased...