Buzzy Vibration at certain RPM's..read before buying!

Tried it for this very issue. Been in the shop for its 5th time, 4th just for this issue. Told them the same, they said totally new design, that's not the problem, vibration in 2wd and not 4wd is normal. Neighboring dealer said they have 2 there with the same problem, said they're in arbitration with them and Toyota is saying that is normal as well. For a common issue as this I didn't figure much effort would be put into avoiding the issue and tell me it's supposed to be like that. After owning 6 Toyota's, this will indeed be my last.

 

Very disappointing to hear.

 

After 7 months in, many of us have hit brick walls with Toyota Corporate and dealerships on this one. Given how this seems to be playing out, I'd be willing to bet that the following is the best-case hypothesis/scenario at this point:

1) More than enough customers have complained to warrant a "we probably need to do something sooner or later" at the corporate level.

2) However, they don't want to mess with the current year's sales by dropping a TSB now, or take on the time and cost of switching parts or changing assembly in the middle of a production cycle. It would be easier (or more pragmatic) to first ensure that this gets engineered out of the 2017s.

3) Therefore, they’ve made a strategic decision, with legal counsel’s backing, that this isn't enough of an issue to warrant immediate action. For now, reduce liability and forestall with "characteristic" and "normal.”

4) Release the 2017, without the issue. Then drop a TSB or Limited Service Campaign for the 2016s.

Of course, we've seen these types of issues go on for several years into a generation (e.g., the 2nd Gen). The above just seems like the best and most realistic scenario. I know some members have already decided to cut losses and pursue a trade, and one I heard from directly already did. I'm getting closer but still trying to wait this out. Unfortunately, the warmer temps is making that very hard to do.

 

I'm bummed. But, I've waited this long, I will wait for a '17 Ridgline. I've had 5 Toyotas but I won't buy another one.

 

This may be my last, too.....sadly....

 

Have we isolated the problem yet to 2WD vs 4WD. I do see mostly 4WD in the the thread.

I also tried to get a frequency reading using my phone, but unfortunately the app I was using maxes out at 50 Hz (samples at 100 Hz max). The frequency is higher than 50 Hz. I believe the accelerometer in my phone can go higher (Samsung Galaxy S6), but I think it is an app limitation. If I can find an app that will sample higher (need at least 2x the frequency of interest), I will try to find what frequency the buzzing is at. Others should do the same so we can at least isolate a frequency for the time being......

 

dealers have picoscope/ oscilloscopes which they use to analyze and track down vibrations and noises, whether they chose to use em is another thing, or maybe they have been instructed not to use them....

 

It's true while most dealers have the tools to help diagnosis the problem. The problem has to be first recognized as a problem and not a compared normal. Then it takes a mechanic willing to acknowledge [he can decide whether to pursue] it's a problem knowing he's probably not going to get paid for his time and efforts trying to diagnosis the concern unless he finds something. Usually the only way a mechanic would even get involved is if he owned a 16 Tacoma with the problem or worked a deal with the service manager to compensate him for his time and efforts, that's the "flat rate" system mechanics work on. In my opinion "chassis ears" would be my tool of choice.

 

At my dealer, the Service Manager gave me the old "if the mechanics want to search down the problem, they can get very well compensated if they find the problem and the solution, it's up to them". Then my friend, the fleet manager at the dealer, told me that all of the diagnostic time they spent was totally uncompensated and the mechanics wouldn't want to do it at all since it cost them money. After the mechanic spent an hour with my truck, along with checking a few others, his response was that he could definitely feel the buzz; however, until the company said any different, it was "normal and characteristic." In other words, he had paying work to do and wasn't going to screw with it for free with the very slight chance that he'd eventually get some compensation....I don't blame him; however, it is a pretty sad system that allows for both the company and the mechanic to all blow this off and screw the buyer. Caveat Emptor.

 

Time to setup a gofundme account for a willing mechanic!

 

I do not understand this. These Toyota mechanics work for free while doing diagnostics? How is that possible? Are they not just hourly employees of the dealership?

 

Most mechanics at dealerships are "flat rate" with hopefully a weekly 40 hour guarantee.......?

I retired 7/15 [30 years] from a Ford dealership, it was our discretion if we wanted to pursue the problem at our expense. If the customer was a "special needs" [what they called them] customer being persistent, didn't accept that it was normal, contacted Ford and had a case open. The job would go to the original mechanic that's been working on it from day one, a Ford engineer would come in and try and figure the problem out along with the mechanic. The engineer would report all findings to Ford and a SSM bulletin or TSB might come out for a fix. Pretty much all time spent by the mechanic would be covered if documented. There are mechanics out there that will go the extra mile just to try and diagnosis or fix a problem regardless if they get paid or not, you just have to find one?

 

Wow. That sounds like a bad deal for the mechanics and a terrible model for a car company. The car company is telling the mechanics not to be creative to find solutions as they may not be paid for that time. Doesn't that stifle any motivation to figure out hard mechanical issues?

 

That's what my friend said. The Service Manager was touting how much money they (the mechanic) could make if they found the solution for the company...in reality, the odds in Vegas are much better...and we all know those fancy fountains and lights and shows are not paid for by the winners....I threw the mechanic a $50 gift card from Cracker Barrel just because I felt bad about all the time he spent not taking much better paying jobs that were coming through the front door of the service department.

 

Your a great customer that cares about the mechanic and appreciates the time he spent. You also found a mechanic that will spend the extra time trying to diagnosis the problem, regardless he's not getting paid for the job...hang on to him..

Being a flat rate mechanic in today's world [at least where I was, Ford] is very hard job especially just trying make 40 hrs of flat rate time. There's alot of dealerships that don't even offer guarantee for there mechanic. Getting paid by the job with most of it being warranty work [which doesn't pay] makes it very hard make hours. So if you have no guarantee and make 20 hrs flat rate time in a week you get paid 20 hrs. try to live on that....... it's a rough life.

 

Getting back to the buzz, harmonic, drone noise. I crawled under my truck and started looking at brackets, mounts, shields etc. What I found was the transmission shift cable housing was about 1/8 away from the corrugated aluminum floor pan heat shield on the drivers side. I could actually see where the cable housing was rubbing on the edge of the shield. What I think is happening is when in "drive" the engine torques slightly upward on the left side causing the cable to contact the shield. I just bent the shield away from the cable giving it about 3/4" clearance. This is something you guys might want to check, yours may or not be close. If it's close I would bend the shield away from the shift cable housing and road test. Just thought I would pass this info on. It got rid of a buzzing noise I had with mine. This shield is attached to the drivers side floor pan on the underside and is right where your feet rest on the the drivers floor. It could be transmitting buzz/noise up thru the gas pedal. Mine was just a noise and not felt thru the gas pedal. I still have the exhaust drone harmonic noise around 2000 rpm and the 3 sec. 2-1 down shift shudder/vibration feels like going over rub strips on the road issues. But my buzzing noise is gone...........my truck V6 4x4 auto access cab SR5 built 11/15 in Texas 2,200 mi.

 

If this is true, they are just plain scumbags and as I said earlier, there is a place in hell waiting for them. It's just flat out dishonest. And probably misguided, they may calculate it's better approach for their bottom line, but I doubt it is. The bad publicity like this thread will not be without effect. Besides, I just don't see how releasing a TSB for 2016 hurts them now.

I think they may not have the solution or not solution is not easy to implement. Maybe proper fix means significant changes to the engine calibration (to account for a percentage of engines that are outside originally planned tolerances) that would bite into the EPA fuel estimates.

Stinks either way.

 

Well...the part that isn't promising is that you can Google this same issue with the Tundra over the past years.

Same exact thing, some people complaining of a buzzing in the steering wheel, floor and gas pedal at a certain RPM range making their hands and feet numb.

Yet nowhere do you see a solid solution....


Has anybody in this thread had a lift done and REPLACED the body mount bushings (also referred to as cab mounts) with different ones? Still have the issue?

 

well that's not very reassuring.

 

Weird. I am finding complaints like this going all the way back to the mid-2000s.