Official Tennessee Thread

Check this out ......

Universal fit for all imports ....


http://powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Fitzall-220

 

Well more props to pioneer then

 

Another viable option ......

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_467/Toyota-Tacoma.htm

 

Shit $410. Still a good chunk of change. Might just fuckin mount 2 factory ones to mine. That's how it works, right? Lmao

 

What door speakers do you have? And how are they mounted? I've about blown my rear two and am adding that to my list of shit to do.

 

Factory haha

 

Damnit, I meant to quote Gid.

@allmotorrex

 

I agree but I'd pay that. That seems to be what they cost. Every high output one I can find is about $400 for a +250a. The thing that matters to me is will a splash of mud take it out. It's been proven the stock one works great even when submerged. That's what I want. Also the amps to price ratio is still there. A new 80a alternator cost $130. A 250ish cost $400

Infinity 3way 6x9 and 6x6. I want to point out that I bought my entire sound system about a month after I bought my truck in Feb. 08. I've played those speakers "too" loud countless times for extended periods of time with pushing to them about 80% of their max watts. They have also been under water twice now recently and they still sound awesome. Needless to say, I'm pretty damn impressed. I have plans of buying infinity kappas as my next speakers if/when I can destroy these

 

Yea, I'd pay it too. But it better be fuckin waterproof. Lol

 

Soooo. Who's gonna try 'em out??

 

Gid

 

Need some knowledge people...

Let's talk aftermarket UCA's, specifically, uniball vs. balljoint. On this site, I read people posts bitching about their uniballs needing to be replaced after a year of use, and others saying their balljoint boots tore prematurely, etc etc. I have 80K miles on factory UCA's. The boots and bushings are fine. Can this type of durability be expected from an aftermarket control arm? Which lasts longer, uniball or balljoint? I understand the pros and cons or each design. Either would work for my application. I just want something that's going to last.

 

If I didn't get such a killer deal on mine, I would've gone uniball. Just make sure to lube them often and you shouldn't see any problems. Also look for a control arm that uses a 1.25" stainless uniball

 

I think Built Right is generally the least expensive but still a quality arm. There is an All Pro group buy going on right now. I think if they get enough people its only $530 and free shipping. Normally $700 arms.

 

It's all about how you maintenance them. Ball joints don't require very much. A squirt of grease every once in a while and it should last a long time. Uniball are hard to hide from the elements so that's why stainless is a good idea however stainless will still rust and it's hard to keep shit out of them which will cause them to become sloppy. Lube often to make them last as long as possible.

 

You ran the camburg balljoints before, right? How'd they do?

 

Yep. Probably me. But you fuck sticks should do your own research. I'm tired of carrying you limp dick fuck tards. IM BREAKIN MY BACK FOR YOU NIGGAS!! haha

But for real, I'm gonna email a few of these guys and ask about their water resistance. $400 for an alternator that lasts 10 years and gives me all the juice I want is well worth it. But if I'm gonna be using that 1 year no questions asked warranty, as awesome as that is, then I need to be looking elsewhere.

 

Probably a long shot buuuuutttt....

Looking for 1 or both switch blanks that came in the lower dash portion of a first gen (possibly 01-04 only, not sure) with a grey interior.
I'll gladly throw in a few bucks and meet somewhere to pick em up. Thanks in advance and heres a pic for reference.

 

A ballpoint should always last longer just for the fact that it's "sealed". There's not a uniball in the world that will come close to lasting 80k miles. The people that bitch about their uniballs needing to be replaced after a year can use the "I'm ignorant as fuck" excuse. A uniball just won't hold up that long because it's open. And the lube thing is kind of right ..... Let's take a stainless steel fk uniball for example (aka the one you want). It has a teflon outer lining that allows it to rotate inside the cup. That teflon does 2 things, keeps the ball clean as it moves around and it lubricates it. Once the lubrication wears out in the teflon, it begins to break down which causes play in the uniball. To keep the teflon healthy, you need to lubricate it once it's own supply is gone. In order to do that you use a teflon lubrication and squirt it on the outside of the uniball.

Now this sounds all great. "Yeah I can just lube it everyday and it will never go bad. Woo-hoo!!" But then you pull your truck out of the vacuum bubble it lives in and actually drive it. Now all the lube you squirted all over it acts like a mosquito light and attracts every piece of rock and dust it passes by. Well, guess what happens next. The rock and dust particles begin to scratch and dig their way into the teflon and over time eat it away.

Sooooooooo, I don't have time to finish my thought. I'll get back to you .....