Led Light Bar mounted in lower bumper

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So I am going to get this light bar:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291359214980
these brackets:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222001020304
and this switch:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111948155956

For these items it would cost $140 shipped. I am looking at auctions of the same light bar for $15 less, so total of $125 shipped. I think that's very reasonable.

 

Good find on those brackets! Pretty fair price if they mount up correctly and sit flush with the bumper

 

This is on my first gen and I'm running without the lower valence, but figured it might give some inspiration.

Used two 1.5ft low profile aluminum strut channel and channel nuts from McMaster-Carr bolted through the factory holes in the lower core support. The channel had to be lightly filed in a couple spots to fit how I wanted but otherwise no cutting/drilling/fabricating was requied. I had to pull the grille off and unbolt the condenser to reach the other side of the bolts but it went on without a fuss otherwise (upper bumper is off for other reasons).

It fit way nicer than I had expected, and theres still room to mount some flood pods for ditch lights in the future. Light bar is 32" curved Auxbeam.

 

Nice work

 

Did mine
Drilled a hole to match the bracket and bolted a large lag bolt lol
I did cut the lower valance cross member

 

5d vs 4d bar will mount 4d behind upper grill or roof basket

 

Finally did my lightbar mod behind the bumper. Anybody have suggestions on what to fill the holes from the license plate with?

 

For the holes:
http://www.bumperplugs.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_11_98&product_id=98

For those with brackets, will a 32" light bar work? On eBay they say their for 30" but no 30" light bars available. Lots of 32" though. Also I think 32" fills in the 05-11 bumper hole better. Maybe modification of brackets can make 32" work?

 

Pretty sure most lightbars are 30" but labeled as 32" because that's the length with the mounting feet on maybe

 

^^^^^ mine was ......but don't go for a $40 bar like I did lol spend the extra $20 and get a D4 bar

 

Saw this thread and thought I would share a little bit of my insight into this subject since I have a good amount of info on the topic.

There are a lot of ways to mount LEDs in the lower grill. People do various methods: self tappers into the crash bar, mounts, angle iron, strap, etc. Some are bad, some are good, some are best. Here are a few of the things I considered when designing my mounts that are important.

First is safety. I do not agree with anyone drilling or tapping into the aluminum crash bar. This is an easy method to mount the LED but you are really shooting yourself in the foot here! The aluminum crash bar is considered a safety feature designed by Toyota to handle a specific amount of force and bend a certain way. By drilling holes for bolts or self tapping screws you are modifying this safety feature. This could lead to a safety concern in a crash. It could also lead to insurance not covering any medical claims because you knowingly modified the crash bar and they are not responsible for the results of that.

The second is light movement. When it comes to actual lighting performance it is absolutely key that you light moves as little as possible. If it is dark out and your light is shaking while at speed it can play tricks on your mind as you are not able to see the terrain as clearly. The vibration/bouncing of the light can also lead to hardware coming lose over time because of the extra movement. Also on the topic of hardware, please be careful with self taping screws. Self tapping screws are designed to be used in higher numbers on a part and not in a structural manor. If you look at how Toyota uses them on their trucks, they are only used to hold light accessories and trim panels, not on more critical items.

Lastly I make a request to look at the differences as all mounts are not created equally. Some may say this is just a light mount, who cares. I think if your using these lights out on the trail at night and relying on them, you should make sure you get the right stuff. There are some cheap $40 mounts out there that are made from 1/8" mild steel, have a few bends in them and not a lot of support as they only have two frame mounting holes... I personally would not use these. Rigid makes nice mounts, they are similar to the one I just described but they use stainless steel which is much more rigid (no pun intended) and stronger. I use 3/16" thick mild steel that has three mounting holes which provides a lot more support and I include a welded on gusset which just about eliminates all vibration and shaking. The choice is yours!

 

Thanks for the link man!!

Mine is a 30" with the rigid brackets, it was a tight fit since it wasn't a rigid bar. For a 05-11 I would definetly put a 32", it fits like a 30" on a 12-15 "perfect". Maybe ask @MojaveMadman if a 32" would work with his brackets/if he made one for a 32"

 

Mine are made for 32" mounting width, I got you @nate232

 

It's Group Buy Time!!!!!

Link here: Super awesome mount group buy

 

When people are using self taping screws, what size are they using?

 

I used a 2 pack of lag bolts from wallyworld. Its defiantly not coming out lol

 

Will a light bar that is 34.5" in total width fit in a 2010 tacoma lower grill?

 

Subd in I just bought a 32 inch and I'm going to try some eBay mounts, does anyone having any wiring tips or write ups for these light bars? I have never mounted or wired one up.

 

Did those brackets work for you?