3rd Gen DIY maintenance quick reference

^^ Truth
I just changed my oil/filter the other day at 5000km, and the plug/housing came off exactly as described.
As someone else mentioned, make sure you have a good sized pan under the engine drain plug, as that 0W-20 shite comes out of there at a high rate of knots!!!

Frank

 

Figured I'd copy this post here. Bottom line for prop shaft lubing. Dana spicer clearly states to purge all 4 seals until fresh grease appears. I would follow the mfr's recommendation.

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/DSSM-3264.pdf
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3299-2-DSSP.PDF
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wH-fvddVt-g

 

Hold on a minute. So Toyota keeps the same engine from the Gen2 but changed the oil filter to a cartridge? When I search online for the filter for my 2016 4cyl 4x4 SR, it shows the regular oil filter that my 2013 used? Im confused.

 

Anybody find an angled funnel that fits the oil filler? A straight funnel doesn't work very well due to the angle of the fill pipe. A flexible funnel would require an extra set of hands to hold it upright.

I found this but it's kind of expensive by the time you add the angle adapter:

$29 Assenmacher Specialty Tools OFTOY1038 Threaded Oil Funnel for Toyota

http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-S..._cp_469_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HK5W8DWV7F308YXGDCM

Assenmacher Specialty OFT38 Funnel Extension used in Conjunction with OFTOY1038

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00DTVE84Q/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

 

Here is what I use, it worked on my Tundra, IS250, Scion TC, and works on the Taco too. It screws into the fill tube, also there seems to be cheaper models.

https://store.snapon.com/Funnels-Spouts-Filler-Oil-Toyota-reg-Lexus-reg-Scion-reg--P646579.aspx

 

Just some information for all: recently swapped out transmission and transfer case oil on a 16' sport w/ manual trans. Used 75W90 Redline MT90 synthetic manual transmission oil in both and WOW. Smoothed out shifts quite a bit over Toyota WS conventional oil and an added bonus: sometimes my flywheel would seem to 'stick' before, and despite my foot being off the throttle it would hang at high rpm, especially if i really got on the pedal from a stop. After switching out tranny oil it seemed to help this issue quite a bit. Also, it appears that my transmission was about a half quart low on oil from the factory so watch out for that! Would be happy to provide a quick writeup if anyone needs it, but really all you need to know is you need a 24MM short socket so that you don't have problems with the O2 sensor on the cat across from the tranny fill spot. Other than that, its as easy as can be and a quick upgrade to the overall feel of the truck. Not quite sure yet if the issue was that the tranny wasn't full, or if the oil is actually better but it feels much better since swapping out fluids.

 

Would love to get a quick write-up from you. I'm a noob but am very interested to swap trans, t-case, and diffs.

Be well,
B.

 

Okay! So first things first, the transmission oil. You might want to wear some disposable rubber gloves or something like that for this, as it can be a bit messy. For this, you will want to crawl under the truck from the passengers side and look directly at the middle of the transmission, on the side pointing toward the passenger side. Right next to the catalytic converter on that side is the fill location for the tranny fluid. Take this off with a short 24mm socket, after you place a drip pan underneath. Some of the oil might spit out of the fill spot so watch out if your truck is warm when you change oil.
Next, you want to move the drip pan under the tranny and take out the drain plug near the bottom.
Once the oil drains out, you want to replace the drain plug and then you're good to refill. As i stated before, I used Redline MT-90 75w90 transmission oil but any good, synthetic 75w90 replacement will do. I ordered a little plunger style oil pump attachment off Amazon to pump the oil in, which was pretty easy IMO. Now, just replace the fill plug and torque down both plugs to 28 ft/lbs (correct me if I'm wrong here).

Transfer case is the same process, only the transfer case is located right past the end of the transmission before the driveshaft, right about in the middle of your truck's underside. You need the same 24mm socket to take off the drain and fill plugs. One is located near the bottom of the t-case facing the rear axle, and the other is located a little further up near the the middle of the t-case. T-case plugs get 36 ft/lbs of torque i believe (please correct me if I'm wrong here).

I also changed the rear diff fluid last night, and it also follows the same process as the tranny and t-case, except for using Redline 75w90 gear oil. I found something pretty odd when i went to change my diff fluid. I had about 2-1/2 MAYBE 3 quarts of oil in my diff, and when I went to fill it it took more than 4 quarts, almost 4-1/2! Even at that it just barely started leaking out of the fill hole. Truck was on relatively level ground, so thats not the issue. I also added 4 oz of Redline Limited Slip Diff Friction Modifier. Everything has been pretty smooth since!

 

Interesting. I noticed that my RPM doesn't drop in between shifts when I wind her out a little. I've been driving manuals for almost 30 years and I thought it was weird. I asked the master tech about it when he came along for a ride to diagnose my rear diff whine and his answer was.........wait for it........., " I think that's normal".

 

Yeah I mean I think he just means its not going to cause any real problems, its just annoying to the driver because we expect the truck to behave one way and it surprises us. Changing the t-case, tranny, and rear diff fluids to all synthetic helped a good bit both with smoothing shifts out and also with the high rpm sticking that sometimes happens. Toyota WS oil is a bad joke, just like its recommended service interval (50K mile tranny, t-case, and diff fluid change interval I believe LOL).

 

Yup. It's just awkward after driving manuals my whole life. To an outsider it would sound like I'm not lifting between shifts. I will do the fluid changes after my rear diff issue is resolved.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...omatic-in-the-2016-write-up-with-pics.361114/

 

So the last number in the parenthesis is the foot lbs we should be using? sorry, this is all new stuff to me

 

I ended up buying this one:

$57 Lisle 19342 Multi-App Oil Funnel Set, 7pc

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19342-M...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I'll report back when I have a chance to use it.

 

Looks like it should do the job.

 

.
Thanks OP ... for the good information ... and starting this thread.
.

 

Your engine looks so clean. Jealous. Stupid New England weather. Salted road crap gets everywhere.

 

Not sure what the 4-cyl has, sorry. Didn't mean to confuse. The OP is for the masses, V6 auto.

 

It is a bit confusing since no where in the OP does it state V6 anywhere that I could see. Oh well.