2016 shell pics?

Snug top rebel with double windoors, front drop slider, 500lb roof with tracks installed and the rod holders. Fits good and the paint matches.

 

We're the same size, but I never made the jump to the 29ers. The whole family is still riding 26's off-road, and 700c on-road. The tallest saddle in the garage was 39" from the floor (wheels on), so I figured I'd be good with the front wheel removed, and would pull seatposts if need be. Thanks for the response.

 

I think I've posted details elsewhere, but I can fit two 29-ers, one large one medium, with front wheels removed and using Kuat fork mounts (thru-axle) in my cab-high ARE and DCSB. It s very tight. Based on what I've seen of Snugtop rear window hinge design, plus a mid-rise and a long bed, fit should be ok with that configuration. But, I do have to lower the droppers all the way and tilt the bikes to get them in. So I mount the larger bike with the fork to the front of the bed, and then load the smaller bike facing backwards.

 

It's going to be a bit of an adjustment coming from 20 years in a full-size.

 

It sounds like yours is very similar to mine.

If you get a chance, can you note how many screws are holding down your roof rails and if the end caps have screws or rivets? My first shell came in without the reinforced roof and it had every screw in the rails. When the shell with the reinforced roof came in, it only had some of the rail screws installed and the end caps were riveted on so they are not removable. I'm trying to understand if this is because it has the reinforced roof or if it's because the dealer ordered roof bars (that I hadn't asked for) and that led to the different mounting. [Note: the dealer wanted the roof bars because he gets a better deal ordering them with the shell. I have no problem with that but I want to know if that's why the end caps are riveted because it makes it hard to add something else to the rails.]

 

Hi, could someone with a mid-rise provide the height from the bottom of the bed (not top of a bed rib) to the lowest point of the rear window opening? Even though my bikes do fit in my cab-high ARE, I think I will upgrade to a mid-rise. Does anyone out there have, or is considering, a contractor-type shell?

 

Any of you got the ARE Walk-In Door on your ride?

http://www.4are.com/product/walkin/

Was thinking it would be nice for when camping/sleeping in the bed.

 

I looked into it, nice way to go, $1500.00 upcharge is what I was quoted. Always wanted to do that until I got the quote, ouch. Plus no tailgate to sit on, or use as a table.

 

Good point. I'll deal with the traditional style shell rather than pay that much extra.

 

$1500.00 for other mods

 

I'm looking at the ARE Z Series with OTR, which was quoted at about $3k.

 

I got a Snugtop, cabhigh, all the bells,except the vented windoors, $3000.00. I screwed up ,get the vented windoors, you will love them if you camp out of the back of your truck, easy access to gear. I have a mega warrior rack on top, with an ARB awning, sweet deal.

 

I have a Z Series ... it's nice except the hinges and light block access through the already small rear opening. Also, the lip below the rear window does nothing to stop the tailgate from being opened with the rear window closed and locked. Mine is silver and I may sell it and buy a roomier mid-rise or contractor shell.

 

The green Niner is a small. The medium Ti bike is mine. Both are 29ers. There is a bit of clearance, but not a ton.

 

Thanks man. Seat is barely above the window, so I think the Rebel will work. We'll know soon enough.

 

Trust me, compared to my two 29-ers in my DCSB you have a ton of clearance, perhaps even a metric ton (2200 lbs). I'll try to remember to post a picture the next time I wrestle them in.

 

Interesting. They told me it would stop the tailgate from opening. If I do go with that one, I'll need to discuss with them so I can return or exchange if I'm not happy with it.

 

Mine doesn't remotely prevent the tailgate from opening. There's some friction from the top of the tailgate wiping the rubber seal under the hard plastic or fiberglass "lip", but you can barely feel any resistance. Good thing the tailgate is now lockable.

 

My Leer 100XR has a beefy fiberglass piece below the rear glass that comes down well over the tailgate. In fact it comes down so far that I'm worried that the rubber weatherstrip will rub and wear the paint off of the tailgate.

I was concerned about this piece because some of the display models just had a flimsy piece of plastic. Fortunately, the shop that I got my cap from has a 2016 Tacoma parked out front and it had a cap that I could see in person before buying.

 

Really awesome set up! Getting my cap installed this week and I've been looking at making a platform. What is the trick behind it?