2016 shell pics?

For my platform I ordered two 1x3" steel rectangular tube beams off Internet. I prefer steel over wood because I don't have a way to plane wood to 1". Steel comes in 6ft length. Cut to bed width, fit in notches in bedsides.

Get two pieces of 3/4" plywood, and cut each to make one half of platform. Big waste of plywood, but platform has to be two pieces to install. Leave 1/4" gap around edges for outdoor carpet, and to avoid warping.

Drill four holes in each beam and screw plywood to beams from below. I used t-nuts in plywood and machine screws upward. Alternately you could countersink plywood, then screw self taping screws downward, I think.

Remove platform and cover with outdoor carpet, then re-install. There are several good threads on TW with pictures.

 

Weird. I had a Z-Series on my 16 TRD Sport 4x4 and the lip on the rear glass of the shell did prevent the tailgate from being opened. But I have to say, why are people making a big deal about being able to open the tailgate when the topper is on? Last time I checked the tailgate has a lock of it's own.

 

I notice on some shells the rear glass opens and stops horizontal. Mine goes up to the sky. Can I switch out the piston supports to change this? I want to make it easier for kids to reach, and so I can put on a tent.

 

Awesome - I appreciate you takin the time to walk me through that. I'll definitely look for those other threads!

 

Just finished up my platform build under my ARE MX. Kept it simple and lightweight, the drawer holds all of my camping gear and is easily removed when driving around town. The whole platform is secured to the tie-down rail, which makes removing the entire platform very simple. Having the windoor makes everything on the left side easily accessible. I kept the platform 2/3 width to allow for tall items and bikes to go inside depending on how I want to have it configured. The storage in the front right is where I keep bedding, extra clothes, etc. I have a large foam mattress topper that I bring along. The action packer tote, and the cooler provide support to allow the bed to be full width when camping. The small LED light illuminates the entire cab and is wired directly to the battery.

 

It's not a huge deal, but with push button start the tailgate key is another, rather bulky key I have to carry. I haven't had a vehicle that needed two keys since my '86 Ranger. But anyway, something just occurred to me: is your Z Series mounted without the bed side rail caps? Mine was mounted on top of the caps, so that may create just enough extra gap to allow the 'gate to swing down easily. Thanks.

 

Mine was also mounted with the bedrail caps.

 

Do any Leers keep the tailgate "locked"? Specifically looking at the 100R

 

Nice setup. Did you make the bed drawers and platform?

 

im from vermont originally but now in hawaii....in hawaii its like $ 2,600 starting for 100xr. and id want a thule rack too which is like $400.... i really want a top but might have to just go with the roll n lock. M -series...they run like $1300 -1400 installed. ... at least i can lock up some surfboards and tools in there.

 

I did, details are here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/quicksand-overland-or-something.419981/

 

Has LEER fixed the issue with the sliding / opening portion of the windoors?

 

Those vented windoors you got as an option on your LEER cap there. They leak like crazy.

 

Shouldn't these come from the factory free of leaks? Has their qc gone out the window or something?

I'm one to fix/make things work but this doesn't give me a lot of faith in buying a cap at the moment.


Regards

Steve

 

Now that you had it for awhile how do yo like it? I have the factory bed cover and noticed everything got wet in the rain after driving yesterday, not happy about that. Mind saying what it cost? I had ARE and Leer in the past and it's a toss up on which is better, but my Leers never let me down. Notice any mileage difference?

 

Bob,
I love it. I have zero complaints. I had a Leer on my '14 and never had any issues. I got out the ladder yesterday and polished the truck, and tops too. The Leer is smooth as glass. Paint is spot on. It may be hard to mess up white. I have not noticed any mileage changes either way. I am sure it helps, but not sure how much. I seen an ARE today, or the one with the trim piece on the topper bed seam area. Not sure if that is applicable to all ARE's but the seam was coming off, peeling, and looked bad. The paint wasn't a good match to the blue on the truck. Almost looked like a patina or something. The truck was about a '14 or so, and super clean. I can go out and say the person was taking care of their vehicle, so......don't know the history of the topper.
What I would recommend, in hindsight, is to seal the bed before you put the topper on. There are threads where folks have done some work trying to make it water proof and that makes sense to me.
When you buy the Leers, the initial price diff is the glass and back locks. I didn't care about the glass or locks, so I went base and got a free fold down from window. That hasn't leaked at all from what I can tell. Nice to lower and clean the glass. The windoors look cool, but I can pretty much reach anything in the bed so that option didn't appeal to me.

 

I paid like 1,300. out the door. They shipped an 12v bed light instead of the battery. Glad I'm not in Canada, those boys pay a hefty price seems like.

 

Ok thanks, just priced the top Leer and it's now $2695, a little pricy for a short bed midsize truck I think. Going to really have to think on this one as I also like the lid.

 

Got my 100r and Bedrug mat today. Still need to install tailgate seal before washing. Did the side and front rails before so hopefully I won't have any leakage up front.

 

The 100r does.