Synthetic oil?

I buy 5 qts of Mobile one and a filter for right at $30 and change my oil every 10K. I put a clean filter on at 5K. I started doing that years ago when I was working 70 hours a week for months at a time and changing oil on 4 vehicles every 5K started to eat into what little free time I had. Been doing that for a long time and have no issues. I really think synthetic might be able to go longer, but 10K is as far as I'm comfortable. Regular oil will work just as well, but I wouldn't keep it in for 10K. I think synthetic comes out cheaper in the long run if you keep it in longer.

I've bought a couple of K&N filters over the years. For several years it was the ONLY aftermarket filter I could find for my wife's Honda. Now that others are available I no longer use it. I tried one in a 1998 F-150 I used to own simply because a paper filter was $25 and the K&N was $35-$40 IIRC. I used it only because it was cheaper in the long run to clean the K&N rather than replace the paper filter. Looking at their own advertising I only see performance gains when running 4000-5000 rpm. They might give a race car a few extra HP, but won't help anything I'm driving. I've seen enough data to convince me that they don't filter the air as well either. I wouldn't use one on a vehicle driven in dirty or dusty conditions.

 

Why?

It has nothing to do with my warranty.

 

That is not an even comparison. You are comapring the v12 of motorcycles to a 4 cyl. I put over 50k on a 1986 YX600 in my college years. When I tried, I could get 55 mpg, or blow a Corvette off the line.

The emission controls on motorcycles is not as visible as on cars (ie cat converters). They use orher means such as tuning and carb sizing. Some bikes since early 2000's, especially two strokes, actually have cat converters.

I maintain when compared one on one, a car produces more pollution than a motorcycles, as in grams per mile over grams per liter.

 

It's not a bad idea to follow scheduled oil change intervals during warranty period.

 

Double post

 

Check the fine print on the warranty. The sales manager showed me the fine print that regardless of oil used if you go 1 month or 1,000 miles over the recommended oil change interval it voids your warranty. That was a document straight from Toyota that he showed me. I was going to do the synthetic changes every 10, 000 miles, but not going to void my warranty.

 

They have to prove that you going 1 month or 1K over actually caused the issue... which guess what they cant.

 

Toyota cannot void any part of their warranty until they prove that what you did (or didn't do) as far as modifications or personal work done on the vehicle caused a problem with the vehicle.

That is a federal law, it doesn't matter what their magical fine print says.

To make things simple, assume anything a dealer tells you is a lie. Never let anyone convince you that your warranty is voided because of anything. It's not true.

 

T6 full synthetic every 5k.
If you keep your truck you'll be glad you did.

 

Best of luck with that argument when it's in writing. Yes, I know they have to prove certain things caused said issue. This would apply to using an K&N air filter not a Toyota brand or use Valvoline not Toyota brand oil. Neglecting to do the recommended service requirements that the Engineers decided will be a little harder to fight. With that said I do believe synthetic oils will last 10,000 miles. I just don't wish to have to fight the dealership on any repair.

 

So ones warranty is voided unless you use only Toyota oil and filters. I think I'm in trouble because I used rainx wipers instead of Toyota oem windshield wipers, guess my warranty is out the door hey .

Have you ever hear of Magnuson moss. Toyota must love you cause they have you thinking you need to buy basic items from them.

 

That's basically what we do on our boats. Filters (3 per engine) get changed 4 times before a full oil change. 14000+ hours and they're getting tired but still running strong. They also hold over 20 gallons of oil so...

 

No, I was referring to comment "they have to prove that it caused the issue". This applies to things like using other brand products however it doesn't apply to not following the prescribed oil change intervals. If you use Valvoline Oil and not Toyota Oil the dealership would have to prove that the use of Valvoline caused the issue. However if the manufacture says you must do 5,000 mile or six month oil changes and you go 10,000 miles the dealer can void the warranty for failure to follow the recommended service requirements.

Toyota cannot void your warranty for doing your own oil changes or using other products. The dealership would have to prove the product or a problem with the service caused the issue. If you do not follow the guidance written to maintain the warranty than the dealership can void the warranty. So if it is recommended to do oil changes every 5,000 miles and you do not do them till 10,000 and you spin a rod bearing Toyota doesn't have to cover the issue under warranty.

 

http://www.autoblog.com/2010/12/28/5-things-will-void-car-warranty/

First of all, in order to understand your part in the warranty relationship, it is vital that you understand what a warranty is and what it is not. A new car warranty is an agreement between the carmaker and the consumer. It outlines what you must do to keep your warranty in force, and a warranty can be voided in part or whole. For instance, if you don't have the oil changed in the engine according to the suggested maintenance schedule and the engine fails as a result, the carmaker has the legal right to void the warranty on the engine. The rest of the warranty remains intact, providing nothing else was affected by such negligence.

 

Toyota, and probably every manufacture, tries to trick you into buying their parts. The Toyota manual reads they "recommend" you buy Toyota brand products. A manufacturer can require you to use their products, but only if they offer them free.

 

Those are the ones I bought too. Work great. Less than $1 each.

No thank you. They stick down too far for my comfort, begging to be sheared off by the next piece of lumber on the highway.

 

K&N or any other aftermarket air filter that you have to "oil" are a bad idea. If you want to use any "AFTERMARKET AIR FILTRATION" go with a non oiled. For example... The AFE Pro Dry S filter. If you use a oiled style filter and under oil the filter, your not catching all the crap. If you over oil the filter, than you just suck that through the MAF sensor (which is a bitch to clean and expensive to replace) and add extra gummy crap to the throttle body and throttle position sensor. Much better filters out there than K&N.. Even for the drop in filters.

Just my 2 cents.

 

You will fight dealerships with repairs 100% of the time anyways. It is an inevitable thing.

All my vehicles I've bought have been out of standard warranty because they have been older. My Tacoma had an additional warranty with it. I'm having issues with either my fuel system or CPU. Dealership is telling me neither is covered by my bumper to bumper warranty added in when I bought it used (at a dealer). A dealership will always make it so you'd rather shoot yourself in the head then deal with them. I'm lucky my issues have been relatively inexpensive, because I really would rather pay for the work to be done by someone I trust than have it done for free by a dealer. It's why I don't buy any extended warranties. Please, please don't make me talk to them more than just to buy the truck.

The chances of having a lubricant related issue under warranty is so minimal, I'll take my chances with changing my own oil and arguing with them later. Some salesman lying to me about the fine print doesn't scare me.

 

This is well said. Where do some of you get the idea that the dealership or Toyota will ever have to "prove" anything? lol. They won't, they'll just look at you and tell you it's not covered then insert "for whatever reason" here.. Then the ball will be in your court, hire a lawyer and go to war with them or fix it yourself. Please don't waste your time or your hard earned money on extended warrantees with car manufacturers or any retailer for that matter, it's a scam. They're not in the doing stuff for free business or the making people happy business or in the satisfied customer business.. Geesh, they're in the automobile sales business or "The business of making money". They sell cars and they service cars for a profit. Period. Keep your money keep your cool, change your oil when they suggest it, I don't know what your manuals say but mine clearly states synthetic oil 0/20 (0/20 I've never seen it conventional) every 16,000kms (10,000 miles). Keep your receipts if you do it yourself, for arguments sake. Try not to lean too heavily on your almighty "warrantee" it's really just a ruse to lure you into giving them your hard earned money, it's meant for catastrophic failures, the ones that rarely happen. Recalls happen for different reasons, again, they don't replace everyone's frame they replace as few as possible, it's really just to cover their ass in case someone dies tragically they can at least state that they tried.. Now lets talk about not wasting your money on life insurance and how the process is loaded against you.. These corporations do not base their business model on check writing.. I could ramble on but I'll leave it at that..

 

I never buy extended warranties cause they are not worth the paper they are printed on. They don't cover any wearable items and will argue about anything else unless they perform all scheduled Maintenance . I hate letting anyone touch my vehicle and prefer to do the work myself. However I have never had to fight with a dealer for any repairs during the bumper to bumper or power train warranty. When they do the Maintenance or if you follow the scheduled maintenance and keep all receipts. If you are getting the run around from a dealer during the bumper to bumper warranty you need to find a new dealership.