Polyurethane Radiator Support Mounts (Cab Also)

Could you guys post up if you ever get a crack in the crumple zone. Shouldn't happen but it could. I had one on each side but have fixed both. @MonkeyProof have you had cracks in the crumple zone?

 

I know of one TW member who posted a build thread out of Florida that has pictures of the same cracks I have. And I'm pretty sure there was one in the crumple zone. I can't think of the username at the moment but is some like Milill ? I don't know..

Edit... he built an LT Tacoma to ship down way south..

Give me a minute so a can take some pics of my junk..

 

@Milowilli

Yes. Miles has reported that as a observable defect/weakness of the 2nd gen Tacoma.

 

Luckily no cracks found in the crumple zone like what the FJ guys get.

Here's what I got..

 

I found Mile's post on the ripped fender / core support.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ana-south-america.233101/page-13#post-8676285

 

mmmmm... polyurethane, you make me feel soooooooo good.
https://youtu.be/OCSp-ANYWwM
https://youtu.be/X7spIEPQGmc













I just bought poly rear spring bushings too

 

I have a set of poly rear leaf spring bushings I received over the weekend ready to install. The current bushings on my AllPro Expo Springs look a little worn..

 

My wheel wells don't have as deep but my trouble started with the Shrockworks bumper and trying to have a 1/2 gap with the bumper. I have lowered it to about 1" or more gap. This small gap and strong bumper tended to twist the sheet metal more than it should have twisted.

I also have made a connection between the top of the bumper and the bottom of the radiator support in an attempt to reduce the twisting moment of the winch being higher than the bumper connections. There was little left to the original tin foil bumper mount so I used angle iron and m18 bolts (fit perfectly in the frame hole) to connect the bumper to the frame instead of just to that flimsy piece of metal in the front of the frame that was never intented to hold any more than about 18 pounds of wt.

Crumple Zone crack (before repair)


Brackets to tie into frame




First mock-up of the top part of bumper tie into the rad support

 

Mine isn't that bad but same exact spots...

 

do you have the cracks in the c-pillar?

 

Haven't noticed any there yet...my cab also has marks from my bed hitting. Damn wheeling at the mall is rough.

I see the stop drilling didn't work on that inner fender, was debating it. I relocated my battery as soon as I saw cracks.

 

glad im not the only one with marks on the back of the cab from the bed, makes me feel better

 

Eventually my truck will be destroyed enough to warrant a full gut, cage, tube bed and some other shit.

 

If this isn't proof enough that you need to ditch your battery up front I don't know what else is, Especially if you have an oversized battery.


Much less weight now.

 

So where is yours now?

 

Sold the 31m for dual grp 34 optimas. Redundancy and easier to find.

 

I need to see better pictures of that and also I need to see exactly where that mounts up to.

 

I did the same, but I relocated to the frame. Run a group 65 Odyssey battery. Solid.

 

Aaron,was your crack above & below a frame plug?
And did you do a lot of Off-roading?

 

"Stop Drilling," from what I know is no longer a standard of practice in aviation. Sadly we have weak front ends. Take the sub out and put the battery/batteries in the back and keep a good full-flex-of-frame gap with the bumper, stitch weld the cracks and you should be good.