Home Improvement Today?

Ha, only every 15 minutes? When the ground is saturated, mine will kick on about every minute or 2. It has kicked on every 30 seconds twice when we got 15" of rain in 3 days and 3" in about and hour. My foundation drainage system needs to be redone but the water actually comes up from underneath as I have the lowest house of those around me.

 

Wow! Thats incredible! You must have like a commercial grade battery back-up? I sometimes fear my "6hr protection" isnt enough since they dont figure it running every 10/15 minutes in their calculations.

Just swapped battery out this weekend for peace of mind. Old one 5yrs old to the date!

 

I currently have no battery backup. The house didn't even have a sump at all when I bought it. Water would just rise and fall in the crawl space without touching anything. It still caused moisture issues that needed to be solved so when I did the vapor barrier, I had to do the sump... didn't think about needing a backup until a co-worker mentioned it. When I do it I think I will get one of these so I dont have to worry about maintaining a battery. http://www.libertypumps.com/Products/Category/SubCategory/Product/?p=76&s=23&c=14

 

Help!!! @OZ-T if the paper is gone from the back of the drywall, will it matter?? just in spots

 

paper is what gives it its strength

 

that's what I figured..... could I use some tape to fix it?

 

pictures speak a thousand words

also what room is it in?
personally, there are certain ones i will just say meh to. but, drywall work is cheap & not that time consuming, so depending on the location and size i'd consider just replacing the sheet.

 

it's for the holes in my bed room wall.... bought too thick drywall and wanted to thin the edges down and just use it... one piece is 18 x 30 and the other is 8 x 9"

 

i am also not a contractor or expert advise giver, just another notsohandyman with a growing pool of knowledge

i'd just purchase the proper thickness sheet, around here it'd be less than 10 bucks for more than enough

oz-t is a great resource, a few others gave some solid advice when i redid my bathroom, unfortuantely i can't remember their users.. pretty sure one had a username containing taco in it... but thats like half of the population on tw

 

@File IFR may be another good resource, unsure of background but remember a few posts

 

easier said than done.... those freaking sheets are heavy

 

tubdeck is almost done!... waiting on fabrication of the last piece!

 

have them help you load it up

even better just break it in half

 

holyshit looks good

 

Nice!!!

Good idea. I'll have them cut it... Thanks

 

@ImpulseRed008 @Bennett707

thanks!!!

 

1st buy the right thickness Drywall. You need to make your holes as square as possible as well and make the cuts run from stud to stud. Generally 16 inches by whatever. The hole but where you can see the trim will be a pain. You'll have to pull the trim for sure to finish it right. When you repaint make sure to get two good cuts of paint or the spot will look otchy compared to the rest of the wall. Hope this helps.

 

I'm starting a little timber building I'm doing for a client , the timbers I bought for this job quite a while ago and got a killer deal because my lumber guy had a bunch left over from an order but they were all 8x12 and I need 4 posts @ 8x8 so I'm ripping them with my 16" Makita beam saw



I use a 4x24 belt sander with a 36 grit belt to make sure the surface of the timber is flat and zone any small out of square issues first ( knots shrink less than the surrounding wood and tend to stick up throwing the saw off of square ) and then just use the big rip guide on the saw , then run the sander over all 4 edges

 

I took the cutout with me, and put it next to the new piece and it seemed to match. The other one seemed too thin Corners are square and the top holes are now one. pic supposed to be headed to live....

 

damn oz you got some big wood