What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

My crossbar is similar to what Squeaky Penguin did. I think it is a 1.75" tube also.



However, the shock arraingement is closer to the way Silver02Taco has his.

 

So really, what is the best way to relocate?? /\ or II

@jberry813 @JLee @Blackdawg @Box Rocket

Would love to get alls your input

 

Haven't been on here for a while lol but I've been the past 3 years! I'll keep an eye out for ya!

 

|| hands down now cut holes in your bed!

 

Damn it jerry..you just like to cut shit

 

Does that mean you can use TW emojis when texting?? I have always wanted to do that.

 

X2

Vertical is best. Followed by vertical but at an angle forward or backward. Then last in angled in.

The only point to angling in is to maximize travel of certain sizes of shocks. Like what I did to Mikes rig. He had shorter shocks so by moving them and changing the mounts, he gains travels but he has to valve them stiffer then he would have to if they where vertical and over all will be harder to tune.

 

Think it kinda depends on what you are doing. /\ will give you more articulation, the shocks aren't working very effectivly though, unless they are more straight up and down and not angle forward on backward; all relative to the axle. When like this



The movement of the piston in the shock is not as much compared to the axle, so even though your axle is moving alot, the shocks are not doing a whole lot of dampening. Having the tops of the shocks toward the center of the body allows for more articulation, but could promote more body roll and vehicle instability. Not in unsafe levels. This is best for low speed rock crawling where articulation is a must.

Now having the shock not angled as much allows the axle travel be more relative to shock travel. If they were straight up and down on the axle you would have a 1:1 ratio. So if the axle move up 3 inches, the piston in the shock will move 3 inches, doing more dampening then angled shocks. The shocks are working more effectively this way. If you mount them || instead of the tops toward the center of the body you are simply just adding some stability and losing some articulation( how much I have no idea, may be very small), you have to run a shorter shock.

Now If you run || but outside the frame, the the shocks are closer to the wheel, so now the wheel travel is more relative to shock travel, increasing how effective the shocks are at dampening your wheel movement. The shocks will do there jobs the best close to the wheel and as close to straight up and down you can get. Have them close to the wheel decreases body roll as well. This setup is best for high speed stuff. You will not be able to articulate as much as the guys like /\, but with these trucks the loss of articulation may be negligible. Plus you can gain articulation over stock cause you can run a longer shock. I'm not sure though. I'm not a suspension expert.

I have 13" icons in here. I'm going to redo it all so its cleaner and simpler and set up right with the right measurements and everything, break down the leaf pack, etc. Also try to prevent the tire rub.

Looking at this pic I could almost run a longer shock because the pack is way negative and I still have 1.5" of shock travel left, But I still wouldn't do it.


If any of this is wrong please correct me. I'm learning lol.

 

that one he is referring to is mine and it is ome springs 881s and bilstein 5100s mounted on bottom perch. not 3" though

 

Great explanation brotha... thank you

 

Oh yeah what shocks are you running that's the first time I have ever seen them mounted like that. I think I'm gonna do something similar to squeaky's but try and push them as far out as possible.

 

Hmmm? Not sure have not tried it.

 

There is some right in here and some wrong. Basic idea are okay. Details aren't though

 

Made it to Lowes last night, truck running fine. When I came back out and started it up, it started missing. Thinking it may "go away" I attempted to drive home 40 miles. About 2 miles in, the CEL started flashing. Wheeled in to Advanced Auto, and had them run the code. "Misfire cylinder 4". So, I started cheap and changed the spark plug. No luck. Next, changed the coil. No luck. Now, from all of the suggestions, its possibly a bad injector. So, I'll be looking to change out my fuel injector on cylinder 4. Any suggestions?

Rant: My bro-in-law has a 600 hp firebird, and told me last night when he bought the new larger injectors for it, he paid $200 for 8 injectors, brand new.

WHY THE EFF are stock injectors (4) $200 for this truck. WTF?!?!

 

Actually I was going to try it as a replacement for my rusting up OEM bracket.

 

Why is that?

 

will do brother!

 

Cause we're immature. Atleast that's my guess.

 

No! It is because of all the miss-information spewed out as gospel.