2013 takes on Chrysler Pacifica in the driver's rear tire

So, my truck was t-boned since a gentleman decided that red lights did not apply to him. There is some cosmetic damage, but more importantly I don't think he could have hit my driver's rear tire more square on. Take a look at the photos and let me know your expert opinions. The alignment shows that I now have -0.6 Camber on the tire that was hit which was always -0.2. Also, my toe is way out after the impact compared to past alignment specs I received. Lastly, take a look at the frame report. What units are those measurements in? Inches? Millimeters?

The toe (so I am told) can be fixed by loosening up the U-bolts and straightening out the axle relative to the leaf springs. Is that true?

The camber has me worried. There is no adjustments on the rear end which makes me believe something is bent to cause it to be -0.6 now. Should I even be concerned about -0.6?

I have also attached a photo of the passenger rear tire. You'll notice that its toed in.

 

Hi Kyle; Bummer! What did the guys at the shop that took the measurements say? If its fixable, it should be perfect, if its not, they should write it off and compensate you for the loss. I wouldn't accept any compromise that you'll regret down the road. Tacoma's have incredible driveability, which is one of the big reasons that they are so popular. In stock form from the factory, they perform very smoothly, like a high performance/luxury car at high speeds. Sure, some off road mods can reduce that, but as soon as they are out of spec, it can be a challenge to get it back. Vibration, premature tire wear, driveline alignment issues resulting in gear and bearing failures can occur from the slightest deviation from the manufacturer's standard - which is very high. Toyota has one of the highest manufacturing standards in the world, which is why its vehicles last so long and are so tough.

 

Since the accident wasn't your fault why not have the frame checked and repaired back to factory specs on the other persons dime...

 

Quality response. Thanks for answering my questions... The frame was checked, but I don't know how to decipher the readouts (see the attached photos). FYI... it's extremely easy to fudge frame reports and alignment readouts.

 

My point is this.

Did the frame shop say that it was within specifications, you never said?
You don't know how to interpret the frame readings. Did they not explain it to you?
If you do not trust the shop that did the frame check then I would take it somewhere else that I do trust.
Why do you think the frame shop fudged the numbers?
Do you trust random internet posters more than a frame shop?

You aren't giving us enough details for us to tell you anything.

 

Yes. They said, "it's out but it's within specifications."
Not really. I will ask in more detail later. He said "millimeters" when I asked the units of measure.
I trust one guy, just not the service part of it.
I don't think they fudged the numbers, but I've been watching over them like a hawk since they lied to me. So I'm sure they are trying to get me off their back at this point.
I trust someone with experience. Right now it would be more answers than I have now.

The rear axle is not square to the frame yet the service team said it was. That's what started this whole debacle. I'm trying to get information on the questions I asked.

 

Yeah, you shouldn't have to a technical expert. Take the vehicle somewhere else, and get it properly fixed. With that kind of damage, it takes a lot of skill to repair. most body shops have guys that only know how to bolt on parts, smooth out bondo, and paint. If everything isn't 100% in line modern vehicles won't perform correctly. my friend had a similar accident on a new truck on a rear wheel with a limited slip differential. After driving it after the repair, he decided to trade it in. He didn't want to deal with the hassle because he knew it wasn't right and probably would never be right. It was a diesel 3/4 truck that he pulled a big stock trailer with, and dependability is a big factor when you have a load of livestock and you're in the middle of nowhere.

 

Thank you for the input thus far. Can anyone answer my questions?

 

The axle and leafs are all just bolt on so no big deal. The picture of the frame report is both low resolution and at an angle so I can't read anything. Frame on body cars are pretty easy to put back right. If it's a little off they can generally massage it back.

 

The largest number on the frame report reads -3.

 

Is that mm? Looking at the picture it looks like the indicated areas are the front cab mounts, the right rear most cross member, and then in front of the rear spring hangers. I don't know what to make of the cab mounts. The spring mounts is all behind the cab so I would think that would be pretty easy to massage out, especially if its only 3 mm. The cross member makes things a little more difficult, but, I'm no expert. Find a properly good body shop and pose your questions to a tech there. No one can answer your questions better. IDK what your insurance options would be vs fixing but I would investigate both angles and find what seems best for you. Worst case if the fix is iffy and you can't get it declared totaled or whatever then fix it, see if it meets your standards, and then if its not right sell it at a loss? Personally, if you weren't super attached to that particular truck then I would do everything I could to settle it with insurance from the get go and get a new truck. If it was my truck I would try and get a new frame under it and take the opportunity to get it painted up real nice first.