Ditching JBL setup

Okay. I attempted to install an aftermarket amp to remedy my no sound to speakers at all. It worked… mostly. Apparently the volume functions on both the headunit and the steering wheel controls are non existent because the factory amp handles all of that input from within it's circuitry. Utter BS if you ask me. It renders the OE headunit totally useless at this point, which is too bad, because I actually enjoy using it. It is quick, loads up quick. Fairly snappy all around with few bugs.

SO… Now I have to change out the head unit. I am looking at a Kenwood DNX573S with built in Nav and all the fun stuff to try and stay as close to feature as possible. I will be using a Metra Axxess AWSC-1 adapter to retain the steering wheel controls as I want it all to still work.

My big question. As I am essentially running a WHOLE NEW amplifier setup in general with an integrated LOC built into it (kept everything much cleaner). Will I still need to run the

$70 TYTO-01 JBL Amplifier Interface Harness, BLACK

TYTO-01 in order to run everything? Or could I get away with wiring up an aftermarket head unit wire to wire and running it as is? All of my speakers are aftermarket as well just for the record, so the only remaining that is JBL OE is the headunit itself, and the subwoofer now.

 

@Do58 you chimed in earlier this morning. Whatcha got for suggestions?

 

are you going to be using an aftermarket amp to power the speakers or the headunit? sorry as I might have misread or understood the question. I can tell you that is you bypass the fact amp you will lose the sub too. there are ways to getting it but need to know first how are you going to get sound. amp or headunit (aftermarket)?

 

Aftermarket amp will be powering the speakers. I have lost the sub, you are right, I do want it back, however, what's the best way to get it back?

 

small amp to power it separately or have a 4 channel amp run fronts off 1&2 of amp rears off headunit and bridge 3&4 for the sub or if you have to amp all run all speakers off 1&2 bridged at 2 ohm and bridge 3&4 for the sub. personally option 1 & 2 are best options. also if you are going to use a.m. headunit you do NOT need to use the axxess harness. its for retaining jbl. you may have to run an accessory wire (been a while since I did a full blown in a Tacoma). as for the swc, you can use the aswc-1 (make sure you do a firmware update on it before installing). you can also use metra harness

$11 70-8114 Steering Wheel Control Wire Harness with RCA for 2003-Up Select Toyota/Scion/Lexus Vehicles

70-8114 for wiring the swc and retains aux. also if you have a factory usb look at the axxess

$9 ax-toyusb - usb-auxilliary retention harness - USB adaptor to retain the OE USB in select toyota vehicles

ax-toyusb or ax-toyusb2 (cant remember which need to look at the connector in the truck behind radio) if you wanted to retain fact usb

 

What about the factory harness that hooks up to the back of the factory headunit then? I don't want to cut anything that's the thing. I'd rather have everything plug in clean up front. I have the Toy2 USB adapter on its way as well as the PAC TATO. What is the purpose of the

$11 Metra 70-8114 Steering Wheel Control Wire Harness with RCA for 2003-Up Select Toyota/Scion/Lexus Vehicles

Metra 70-8114 harness?

Also, what wires would I need to tap into at the input and output side of the amp harnesses to retain the sub, would I have to use a jumper wire at all? I can post up a schematic of the stereo wiring if it would help?

The rear wiring was weird because coming out of the headunit it does not state which are the rear speaker wires, only what is at the amp side of it.

 

I don't know what the pac tato is but by what I read it is just like the axxess harness that RETAINS jbl. you are NOT doing that


edit..... you will be using the preout of the am headunit

 

Basically it plugs in at the front HU and allows the digital signals being sent to the amplifier to be retained. Supposedly.

 

I'm going to post up a schematic real quick man. Help me point out which are the input wires for the rear door speakers that way I can rewire this amp to keep the sub please @Do58

 

I now have to go to work... I will try to look at it when I get a break

 

No worries. Thanks a bunch for helping!

 

Everyone else, here it is. The ever elusive JBL wiring diagrams!







Thanks in advance for taking a look at this @Do58

 

Actually. Thinking about it some more and taking another look at it. I think I figured it out Do58. Basically, for the input side I will use channel 1 and 2 which will be the red/ green, black/ white wires off the front and use those to power the rear. So I will have a total of 8 wires connected to 4 for the front and rear woofers/ 2 tweeters and I will use the rear channels black/ yellow, red/ white to power the subwoofer alone.

I'm sort of having a hard time explaining it. I can visualize how I need to do it and will edit the post so future people looking at this thread will see it.

I'm going to go try it out right now.

 

Okay I got it. I basically removed the way I had it set up in the rear and left the front channels intact. I managed to grab some jumper wires and spliced my rear channel door speakers into the front channel speaker circuits on the output side.

As for the subwoofer I ran channels 3 and 4 to it and I tapped into the powers and grounds from the amp side, then spliced into the subwoofer at the pigtail protruding out from the subwoofer box. All works well now.

I just find it interesting how volume does not work at all on the steering wheel, nor the head unit, yet every other button for the steering wheel controls and head unit does.

 

Take a look here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/my-audio-build.410326/

Not sure if you already changed everything already but you add the amp after the jbl amp and keep the head unit and everything works like it should. Basically tap into the speakers/sub wires coming out of the jbl amp into the new amp.

 

My stock amplifier is fried. Just a brick now.