Official Crawlbox BS thread!

He can do it, I just got to talk him into it. If he can shove 37s under my OME lift and some of the other weird shit that's been done over there that won't be an issue.

 

If I can move everything up to the frame rails I'll have 40" tire ground clearance on a 37" tire. That would be my ideal situation

 

Front range off road twin stick is alot better than that one.

also, if i had to do it again, i wouldnt have twin sticked the fjcase because of what slander said earlier. i almost never use my fjcase low. mostly the cralw box low since its perfect with the manual. unless its a stupid crazy obstacle, i never put the fjcase in low.

 

Ya'll keep talking about ground clearance and i'm over here like i built my shit to drag.

 

sub'd to learn somethings before I graduate next year for when I can afford one

 

Did you cut it without taking the case apart? I still don't know when to put it in! I prefer to first get the twin sticks and crawlbox. But if it's doable without taking it apart I might put it in before the crawl box.



Edit, ops.. seen your later post

 

I would hold off on putting the tcase in now if you're planning on installing a crawl box later. You'll end up with some massive holes in the floor having to cut things twice.

Look here for my twin stick install.

 

Seen it right after I got excited posting... I skimmed through all the pages in the last half hr and a lot of good stuff. Do guys still run both rear drive lines or do you get rid of the case side one and run a one piece on a double cab short bed Taco?

 

I got on RST recently but looks like you cant post on there if you're a newbie . I'm thinking of buying a couple things off their market place but I can find a good contact.

 

I kept the two piece drive shaft.

 

No vibration?
Benefit to this is you keep the driveline higher for better clearance

 

Two piece vs. one piece isn't going to change if it vibrates or not. It's the driveline angle. I haven't driven it enough to tell if I have any new vibes, but nothings changed.

 

Did you have to have both pieces done? I moved the axle back an inch and am wondering if its going to be to short now.

 

Zero vibes for me at highway speeds with the two piece.

 

That depends on how much engagement you have left on the slip joint.

 

Only reason I wanna do all this beforehand is to prep for a SAS... even though I don't need it for what I use the truck but I like to play, cut and weld. 94 HP 60 is crying to go in I tried to sell it to make my decision easier but no luck. I got it for a descent price so I don't mind sitting on it! In the mean time I might look for a deal on a mid travel... if there is such a thing (cheap)

 

Anything worth doing is worth doing right. No sense in redoing work you could have done in the first place

 

@malburg114 Flex your truck up with the stock rear shaft in it, i think you will be fine and not have to lengthen. The pros of a two piece far out weigh those of a one piece in our long ass trucks. Also keep in mind that you will be dragging a one piece on everything, which you will have to get some crazy thick tube, which will be harder to balance for a street driven truck. It will also beat the hell out of your pinion bearing, and tcase out put bearing dragging it over everything.

 

Not sure about that. I've had one for 3 years now and haven't had any issues. Double cardan one piece is the way to go. The carrier bearing is just another failure/wear point. Once a crawlbox is in the rear driveshaft ground clearance is no different from that of a 1 piece.

 

What did that cost you?