LCA Bushings: OEM, Energy Suspension, Whiteline

Hmmm, I went back to check part numbers....

For the 95 it has the same part, part number 48061-35020, for the front and rear LCA bushings. There are different part numbers listed for years 96-00, which have two unique parts, 48061-35040(front) and 48061-35050(rear).

The MOOG LCA bushings listed on rock auto are the same for all years 95-04

The whole LCA assembly part numbers from the parts list are the same for 95-00...48068-04011 for the right and 48069-04011. Are all the years using the same bushings?

 

Well I went back in to check out the cam bolts and they seem to turn fine. The guy at the tire shop was lying when he told me they were seized. weak sauce.

On the plus side, my cam bolts are good to go and the bushings seem fine too!

 

Just to verify. If they are frozen it will be the sleeve cam frozen inside the bushing. The nut cam and bolt may come out fine but then the sleeve cam can't be turned. As long as you can turn the sleeve cam you should be fine.

 

I don't believe that my year has a cam sleeve, just a bolt, cam washer(?), and a cam nut(?). That parts diagram I posted on the last page shows the two washers and the bolt.

When I go for an alignment after my lift I'll ask the guy to double check. I may actually pull them out to apply anti seize when I replace my rack and pinion bushings next week.

Thanks for looking out!!

 

@jjsul

oic now. that makes sense.

 

hey alphabravo what did you use to press the new whiteline bushings in? I'm need to replace my bushings and I think I'm going to go with the whitelines. Was wondering what you used to push the new ones in.

 

They should just tap in with a rubber mallet EZ. I think I also used anti-sieze but I'm not sure if that is really a great idea.

Main thing is you will want to torque the cam nuts up to exactly 100 ft-lbs or whatever the FSM says. The Whitelines don't have the serrated washers on them to dig into the frame like the OEM ones do and so they are more sensitive to needing the minimum torque.

 

Thanks. I was thinking you may have just tapped them in. I think I'll use some white lithium grease on the tap in. Thanks again

 

@Animus313

Anti-sieze was questionable but grease might make them too loose I'm thinking. I suppose a light grease would be ok to keep the rust away but they should never turn once they are seated. The slip surface is between the polyurethane and the inner bushing sleeve. Make sure everything is clean and you use lots of SuperLube so you don't get squeaks. They will drive you craze

 

Thanks for the write-up, @alphabravo . I ended up going this route as well. After some reciprocating saw, hammer and chisel, and burr bit usage, my LCAs are ready for the Whitelines.

 

How long is a "long long time" for these to last?
Or is it also a case of if it aligns fine and there is no rattle from thine its not yet time?

 

Mine lasted over 200K. The main reason I had to replace them is because the front drivers side cam was frozen up so that the alignment couldn't be adjusted. It is a good thing to check when you get new tires.

 

That was my issue also, the front two alignment cams were frozen and they had to be cut to be removed.

 

Thanks for the write up! I am going to be doing a full suspension update in the next couple weeks. Glad I found this before starting.

 

Ordered the Whiteline LCA bushings from Amazon like 10 minutes ago.

Question: Are all 4 UCA bushings the same part number? (2002 Double Cab 4x4)

 

@nsimps
Yes, all 4 bushing sets are identical. Note that they are not officially listed for our trucks unless that has changed. I think they are listed for the Hilux or 4Runner currently. When I spoke to Whiteline last year they said they planned to offer our bushings this spring and we are just guessing that they are the same ones we have all been using.

 

@alphabravo Thanks! Glad I got the right set then.

For the UCA bushings I seem to only be finding ones for the RWD. I realize that those weren't discussed here from what I can see but if you know of a part number that would be amazing.

Again thanks for the awesome write up. Helps a ton! We love our Taco and plan on keeping it pretty much indefinitely so I want to make sure and get this right.

 

@nsimps
I don't know the part numbers for the UCA bushings on the 4x4. I ended up going with an aftermarket UCA which came with their own non-oem bushings.

 

Just spent a few days making sure all the periodic maintenance is done on my bike, so now I can focus on giving the truck some love and do a front suspension refresh.

The thing that irks me about this job is that I had LBJs done 5k miles ago at around 210k miles and the shop said everything else was fine at that time. The truck still had a "Clunk" sometimes when hitting bumps while turning. I recently took it to the same shop for an alignment and they told me it can't be done, my bushings are shot.

Fine. Why pay someone to screw it up, when I can do it for free?!

I'm also going to attack inner and outer tie-rod ends, and am considering UCA bushings. Thoughts?

 

I just installed and uninstall the "moog problem solver" LCA bushings on my Tacoma. Went to have it aligned and everything was ok. 2 days later the truck was steering like crap. You could visable see the rubber part of the bushings where looking very "soft". I don't know how else to explain it.

I took he trust K back to the alignment shop and no matter what they did they couldn't get it to align. I've used the same guy, at the same shop, on the same machine for years now. He is a personal friend that I trust.

I have now pulled the LCA back out and installed the energy suspension poly bushings. Getting the rubber off the inner and outer sleeves was a bit of a pain, but not too hard.