Alignment, Caster, Clearance, and Driving Report with Light Racing UCAs

From what I've heard and gathered, between 3 and 4* has the best results. I've only had mine on since August and have only done an alignment with them twice: when i first installed them, and a few days ago (we just had a big meet, and my drivers side caster was fucked). So, others please correct me on the numbers if I'm wrong.

This is my most recent alignment for reference.
I'm on 285's.

 

Where is caster usually at once you lift 3" and install LR UCA's before adjustment? Would I be closer to 3* by setting the arm to D or C?

 

There's no telling, at first because it moves during a lift install. You'd have to get it on an alignment rack then see where it's at then adjust it. I'd start with the uca's at D then move them to C if needed.

 

This is spot on, begin with the D position, as said above the lift changes everything as well as where your eccentrics are currently set. I made the unfortunate mistake of not installing UCA's initially. After the install I asked the alignment tech to put my eccentrics all back to neutral and begin from there. Very pleased with outcome.

 

I'll be doing work and alignment myself. Just trying to get an idea of where to start instead of taking things part multiple times.

 

How can I tell if my eccentrics are at the neutral position?

 

So I will be putting on 3in lift and these LR UCA along with 285/75/16 ko2. After reading..correct me if I am wrong in regards to wanting less to no rub on the back of the wheel well at full lock/bumps.

I should aim to have the balljoint set at the E position.
get as close to 0* as possible for Camber and Toe.
get around 2.5*-3* for Caster

 

No expert here but...from what I've read.
Toe and camber close to 0 as possible.
Caster 3.0 for best ride and no rub.
But every person and truck is different.
So start at "D"
Eccentrics at " Neutral"

Do Firestone lifetime alignment or go to a place that will work with u.

Someone with more experience should chime in! GL

 

Thanks for the input.

Is it same to drive with the balljoint set at E before the alignment is done?

 

Not sure?? Directions say to set it at "D" for a Tacoma. But I don't think it would damage anything?
Give it a try worst case jack it back up and change it to "D".

I set my to "D" before alignment and computer said it was at 3.2 drove/rode really nice. When they got done it was at 2.4 and still on "D" so they probably just adjusted the eccentrics. Drives good just a bit rougher, probably this weekend I'm gonna try "E" see if it smooths out?

 

The C D E etc settings all just correspond to the amount of caster that the UCA / ball joint combo provides . The arms themselves add 2 degrees caster and the D setting is the neutral setting for the ball joint so no additional caster from it , for a total of 2 degrees of added caster .

Driving on the E setting is perfectly fine

 

Any idea how many degrees each setting adds or subtracts?

 

See the chart on the installation instruction sheet

http://www.spcalignment.com/instructions/25470-INS_WEB.pdf

 

Duh.. Guess I could have looked on my sheet. Sorry off my meds today

 

Just got my alignment today after installing new UCAs and suspension.
Maybe it's just me but It feels like my truck is slightly drifting right.

 

2016 DCLB OR and put 275/70/17 Cooper AT3 with Method NV whels. NO rubbing before lift. Installed OME 2inch lift (for 2016) as well as Light Racing UCA's. Now there is rubbing on the cab mount in the rear pretty bad while in reverse and only sometimes while driving forward. I do not have the current alignment specs in front of me but can get them from the shop. Has anyone with a similar set up know what to shoot for when I go into the shop to get this fixed? They said that they can try adding more caster but that it would be taking it out of factory specs? I am really confused and just frustrated that I paid money for the lift to be installed and theres issues now that was not there prior. Thank you in advance this site has been a major help.

 

Oh boy...please tell me they didn't install something upside down...

 

Spring perch is upside down.

 

Your lift causes you to be out of factory specs... The LR UCAs will allow enough adjustment that you should clear cab mounts (also depends a lot on your wheel backspacing). Ideally you want 0, 0, and 3+... Tell them you don't care about keeping factory spec haha!

 

Does this cause the front end to not lift up as much?