Closed (for now): Group Buy: IEDLS Polyurethane Carrier Bearing

Can't wait to see more pictures of the angles of @MonkeyProof 's driveline as well as more info on the install.

My CB should be here tomorrow. I plan on doing all the ujoints, CB, and diff oils at the same time.

 

So if I currently have my carrier bearing with the OME drop kit on it. When I install this one do I continue to use the drop kit with the new one???

 

Hard to say. All applications could be different since lift options and ride height can all be different.
Probably not since the mounting location in relation to the center of the CB is different. See below.

IE: If you just look at the top two pictures below. They are both mounted in the same position on the frame but since the mounting location in relation to the center of the CB is different the center of the CB will be slightly lower.

 

Thanks sir

 

Looks like everything is proceeding as I had foreseen.

 

Here it is everybody, I am still completely satisfied with the overall performance of the IEDLS polyurethane carrier bearing. I am still experiencing some shudder from a dead stop, however it is nowhere near or as close to what it was when I had the rubber OEM style carrier bearing. The shudder that I am still experiencing is very slight, just enough that you know it's there. I can say with 100% certainty that the drive line clunk is gone!

When I initially reinstalled the drive shaft I noticed right away that the angle of the carrier bearing and the angle of the front drive shaft in relationship to the rear drive shaft was no good. Taking a test drive around the block confirmed that. Only way to fix that was to re-orientate how the carrier bearing bolted to the sub frame. And to make that work correctly I needed to add some spacers. I originally tried 1" spacers but that did not work because it allowed the driver shaft to sit high enough that it touched the sub frame on hard acceleration. After trying a few different lengths of spacers and a few test drives I have settled on 1"x 3/8.

For the spacers I'm using 1"x 1/16th square tubing. And since the stock bolts were not long enough to work with the new spacers I needed longer ones. M10x1.25 x60 were the perfect length. Square tube and bolts were purchased at Home Dept for about 15 bucks total.

I should note that I have the All Pro Offroad Expo springs installed and also have the All Pro Offroad front LT kit. I am also on 35" tires. My final results and drivabilty may be different from others who have installed the new IEDLS Polyurethane Carrier Bearing.


Here you can see the bad angle of how the carrier bearing is at. The front shaft needs to be at an angle that
is higher then the rear rear shaft.


Another example of the wrong angle.


You can see where the shaft touched the sub frame on hard acceleration with the initial 1" spacers.


M10-1.25 x60mm bolts (x2)
1"x1/16 square tube


Final mounting solution for my DCSB

 

the u-joints and carrier bearing were replaced about a year ago when i had the drive shaft re-tubed.

 

M10-1.25 x60mm

 

If your angles are spot on and you are still getting vibes (assuming your shaft is correctly balanced, etc) your issue is going to be attributed due to the off mounting design on DCSB's (opposed to DCLB's mounting directly below the crossmember) which require bracing to be made for them to really keep the stock or this carrier bearing from moving under load.

@nd4spdbh has done it. He can show you pictures of how he braced the mounting point using some aluminum flat bar.

 

That's going to be my next project. Make an assembly/brace that will allow the carrier bearing to have a natural angle. I just need access to a welder.

 

If ever get my cross member straight again, I might give this CB a go..... going to have to rock a 1 piece for now

 

In. I'll pay.
Received my CB today.

 

Put me down as well. Mines at factory height so notsure? Not really into lifts and the side effects they can cause.

Right now my cb is good, but I'm sure down the road it'll need replaced from what I've seen.

 

Received mine today too. Should be installing it next weekend.

 

I'm a little ways from you but I have a welder you're welcome to.

 

What are those blocks made of?

Took my setup all apart today to get rid of the unnecessary washer and replace the flange nut 15/16"
Took an hour

Meanwhile here is the grinding and rattling damage to the washer:

 

It's on page 45.

 

Im in for the next group buy... DCLB, going to have a about a 2" lift in the near future.

 

For anyone with the DCSB that needs specific part numbers on what @MonkeyProof posted. I zoomed in on his pictures and matched the SKU#'s. See below.

1" x 1/16" Square Tubing - 36" length
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-36-in-x-1-in-x-1-16-in-Steel-Square-Tube-801257/204225779
*****Please Note: His length of square tubing worked for him but doesn't mean it will be the best length for you. You have 3' of this stuff so adjust as you need to get the proper angles.

M10-1.25 x 60mm Zinc Plated Hex Bolt (I couldn't find a 60mm on the site but chances are the 60mm will be in the same tray as the 50mm I linked.)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-M10-1-25-x-50-Mm-Zinc-Plated-Hex-Bolt-81208/202210128

 

So I'm interested, but see the thread is closed for now. Might want to update the first post also to indicate this. If the title is wrong, hook a brother up.