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DIY leather arm rests

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by reid, Sep 1, 2007.

  1. Nov 12, 2009 at 6:42 PM
    #101
    newfie8

    newfie8 Well-Known Member

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    I really like the look of that man! Good job
     
  2. Nov 12, 2009 at 7:48 PM
    #102
    T@co_Pr3runn3r

    T@co_Pr3runn3r XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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    Damn I gotta quit puttin this off!
     
  3. Nov 16, 2009 at 8:02 AM
    #103
    yotarob2005

    yotarob2005 Kiss My IFS

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    I did one door yesterday, used some fake leather & 3M 77 series spray adhesive that I already had. It is not sticking great. I am going again but this time rough up the plastic really good with some 80 grit sandpaper. I tried calling around this morning & could not find any real leather anywhere in town. I also might try to get the 80 series adhesive.

    Something for everyone to watch out for is DO NOT overtigten the screws when you put it back together, I started to poke through on one. Now I am using some #10 flat washers to help prevent it from happeng again. I am glad that I did the back door first.
     
  4. Nov 16, 2009 at 5:13 PM
    #104
    Asgard

    Asgard Well-Known Member

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    I did the mod with contact cement and it worked fine. I agree with you about the screws, to avoid them going through from tightening I put some contact cement on them and in the hole. This way they would stay in place without tightening too much.
     
  5. Nov 16, 2009 at 5:48 PM
    #105
    silverback

    silverback Well-Known Member

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    painted door handles, bilstein 5100's front and back, K&N air filter. Precision power component speakers and Kenwood deck.
    I want to let everyone know what major problem I had doing this project. The original poster says to use a 3/8 drill bit and to drill out 1/4 of the plastic melted tab. I ruined three tabs by doing this. The problem is by the time the drill bit reaches the point of where the tab will break loose, the left over RPM of the drill bit catches the back plastic stem you need to re-install the sheet metal screws and wraps it around the bit. I tried using different speeds and still had the same results. I HIGHLY recommend using a dremmel tool and carving out the tab enought to where you can use your finger to pry loose the tab. It will leave the plastic stem in back intact for re-install. Tried the utility knife to carve it out and unless you have gorilla fingers good luck. Hope this helps.
     
  6. Nov 16, 2009 at 5:57 PM
    #106
    Asgard

    Asgard Well-Known Member

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    ^^ Yea, I used a utility knife the drill wasn't giving me the results I wanted. I guess I have gorilla fingers.
     
  7. Nov 16, 2009 at 6:43 PM
    #107
    yotarob2005

    yotarob2005 Kiss My IFS

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    I brought home some 3m 2part adhesive from work, that should do the trick in the corners.
     
  8. Nov 19, 2009 at 7:35 AM
    #108
    silverback

    silverback Well-Known Member

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    painted door handles, bilstein 5100's front and back, K&N air filter. Precision power component speakers and Kenwood deck.
    lol , now your making me look bad.
     
  9. Nov 19, 2009 at 7:38 AM
    #109
    silverback

    silverback Well-Known Member

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    painted door handles, bilstein 5100's front and back, K&N air filter. Precision power component speakers and Kenwood deck.

    Yea same problem here #77 spray not working so good. Next morning My armrests are bubbling. Just going to take it in and have the upholstery guys do it for me.
     
  10. Nov 19, 2009 at 7:55 AM
    #110
    BSP4x4

    BSP4x4 Guest

    make sure to wait a good five minutes after spraying, to let it get tacky....then apply the leather :)
     
  11. Nov 26, 2009 at 9:03 AM
    #111
    silverback

    silverback Well-Known Member

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    yea I dont think i waited that long. Maybe a minute or so. I just took it to a local upholstery shop and the guy was very cool. We BS for a while and he ended up doing it for me with the professional grade adhesive for $10 bucks both sides. Worth it.
     
  12. Dec 19, 2009 at 6:46 PM
    #112
    Schully

    Schully Well-Known Member

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    thanks a ton... lookin much better now!

    12666_225325093616_681033616_2911877_5280582_n.jpg
     
  13. Dec 19, 2009 at 7:01 PM
    #113
    My68ur8trd

    My68ur8trd Well-Known Member Vendor

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    3M 90 does really well, you just have to follow the application instructions ( mainly the tac time and temp)

    I have put in probably 20 of these sets, adding a seam in them makes them lay down much easier with less stretching ( easier to glue too)

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Jan 29, 2010 at 1:01 PM
    #114
    awgg08

    awgg08 Member

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    i have the panel off and drilled the meltpoints but they will not come off what am i doing wrong?!?
     
  15. Jan 29, 2010 at 1:04 PM
    #115
    Asgard

    Asgard Well-Known Member

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    ^^Read post #105
     
  16. Jan 29, 2010 at 1:07 PM
    #116
    camiliosalomanda

    camiliosalomanda Well-Known Member

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    you have to drill a wide enough hole so that it breaks the entire melt point. At least this is what i experienced.

    I had to actually cut in between the door panel and the arm panel melt point with a dremel cutting wheel.

    Just make sure that you leave enough to screw back into as well as using something short enough so that it wont push through the door panel.
     
  17. Jan 29, 2010 at 1:44 PM
    #117
    BSP4x4

    BSP4x4 Guest

    I used a sharp chizel and hammer and just chopped each melt point off...much cleaner!
     
  18. Jan 29, 2010 at 3:26 PM
    #118
    awgg08

    awgg08 Member

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    i pretty much screwed that up big time the leather is all bumpy from the glue and i screwed up four meltpoints theres also a gap between the armrest and the frame around it now i dont know how that happend couldnt have gone much worse
     
  19. Jan 29, 2010 at 5:00 PM
    #119
    george3

    george3 Well-Known Member

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    Man, you got me scared to do this thing now.

     
  20. Jan 29, 2010 at 5:16 PM
    #120
    Edrin55

    Edrin55 Well-Known Member

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    Guys & Gals..... the dremmel is the way to go. Forget about drilling. Use the dremmel to sand and melt the plastic weld points off. After sanding for a few seconds, while the plastic is still warm, pull up on the tabs carefully and they will come apart and leave perfect holes for the screws. When you are ready to put everything back, use a cordless screwdriver to drive in the screws. BTW, I used Wet Okole Neoprene

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


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