Can't Shift and a Mystery Spring

2002 5VZ-FE
Manual trans
192k

So yesterday I go to shift into first from a stoplight and it won't go into gear. I ended up turning it off putting in first and starting in with the clutch start cancel switch turned on. After getting going I could not pull it out of first with clutch depressed, so I crawled along.

After doing some research I checked my clutch fluid level, it's full and no leaks. I then checked and adjusted my clutch pedal height to be in the proper 150-180mm distance from the floor - this required spinning out some length on the clutch pedal push rod as my pedal was only 100mm from floor. So I thought maybe that was the problem, the pedal wasn't fully disengaging the clutch. And it's operated fine...until today, it happened again.

I'm certain this is a problem with the clutch not fully disengaging because I noticed through experimentation (when the issue happened) that when the clutch was fully depressed the truck would still creep forward indicating the clutch was partly engaged. The transmission operates great, I have no reason to suspect it.

Some theories...

1 - Could this be bad clutch fluid? I noticed the fluid is not very clear. Maybe it's got moisture in it and it's compressing and not disengaging the clutch?

2 - Could it be the throw out bearing? I don't hear any unusual noises.

3 - Could it be the clutch master cylinder? I think this is most likely, anyone else have similar symptoms of a clutch master cylinder going bad? The clutch slave cylinder is clean and visually looks in great shape.

3 - Could it be the mystery spring? I feel like a complete baboon about this: a spring fell out from underneath the dash that I can't identify where it goes? All the pedals operate correctly. Here's the spring:



Help! Thanks a bunch y'all!

 

That has got to be related to the clutch pedal. I have an AT, so nothing for me to look at.

Do you know where the clutch slave cylinder is? If so, get underneath there and watch it,
while a buddy presses on the clutch pedal. It the slave doesn't work the clutch fork,
then that spring needs to be replaced.

 

That spring looks like the one used for the squeaky clutch pedal mod. It replaced the torsional spring on the clutch pedal. If you look at the pedal and there is no torsional spring in place then I bet that is it. There is a thread around tw on that mod/fix.

 

@tan4x4 yup, I know where the slave cylinder is...it must be working partly. Good suggestion, I'll watch it while a buddy depresses the clutch and see if I can figure anything out.

@FirstGen Jer Hmmmmm, ok. Thanks for the tip. The clutch has the torsional spring and returns correctly.

 

It's not going to help your clutch problem, sounds like it is not completely disengaging.

That spring is a brake pedal return spring. The plastic part is intended to help keep it quiet. Back in the day it was common for folks to find just the plastic piece on the floor.
Here is the scary part, it holds the brake linkage together.
In the pic below you can see how one end hooks around what is known as a clevis pin, connecting the brake pedal to your brakes. I stuffed a little black foam into this one as a silencer.
Pic is from the floor up along the steering shaft, clutch pedal assembly is in upper right.

 

@Dirty Pool Yikes! Thanks a bunch for the tip. I'll put that spring back on the brake pedal tmrw.

Update for those following along...
Tonight I replaced the master and slave cylinders. Although both were clean and appeared not to be leaking. However, I had planned on only doing the clutch master cylinder, when I started to blead it there was an evident leak on the slave (possibly from a loose line compression fitting; it appeared to becoming from there; maybe the slave wasn't bad but the fitting was just loose...who knows). Anyway, I replaced both and all appears to be well and it's shifting ok.

 

Thanx for reporting the solution.

Many posters don't.

 

Well the saga continues...

Today it did it again. After startup I couldn't shift it into gear. Soooooo I guess I'll check the easy things first, confirm that my slave cylinder is actually pushing the release fork. I feel confident now that the master and slave cylinders are operating correctly, but just maybe not adjusted exactly right (although I followed all guidance in manual). If the release fork seems to be operating correctly I guess I'll be tearing the clutch assembly apart to see what's happening with the release bearing, etc.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

 

Sounds like a blown up clutch, time for a new one

 

Does anyone have a spec for how far the clutch release fork should move?

 

I don't know of a "published" spec.
Mine travels dead on 7/16". That is carefully measured in line with the slave pushrod, not at the tip of the fork. All pedal height, free play and release point specs are good and have never been changed.

I sure would think on your situation a wee bit more before any deep surgery, maybe try another bleed. Not saying there isn't a mechanical issue with the clutch, release bearing, fork or pilot bearing, just best to rule out the easy stuff first.

The huge amount of pedal height you had to add and the intermittent nature of the problem has me curious. Are you the original owner? Ever wrecked that you know of? There have been cases of the clutch fork pivot wearing right thru the fork causing "range of motion" issues.

FWIW here's a shot of my pedal pushrod length.

 

@Dirty Pool Thanks for the info and pic! Very helpful. Mine moves about 1/2".

Yesterday after rechecking everything I could externally I decided to dive in. And looky what I discovered:



She gets a new clutch today. I've read every thread I can find about best types of clutches but has just left me confused. I'm going to play it safe and get an OEM from the dealer. I am planning a trip out to the west coast from TN this summer towing a camper and don't want any surprises. Any advice or thoughts on clutches for towing?

 

Opinions on flywheel manufacturers welcome too. Going to replace it while I'm in there, might as well. It's discolored and has a tiny ridges I can feel by fingernail.

 

The photo link does not work for me.

 

I can't see, I can't see!
Aftermarket flywheels are all over the place just like clutches. Mostly issues with ring gear tooth profile/starter issues. If you go that route compare old to new. I would resurface an OEM if possible before going aftermarket. Just make sure that they maintain the factory "step" height between the friction face and the cover mounting surface, .5mm.

 

So I was right! The clutch was toasted...

 

That pic should work now. The pressure plate lost a finger! Both the clutch and the pressure plate were stamped "made in china". I don't know why anyone would go to all that work of pulling the trans and then putting crap in it. The pressure plate was stamped 2007 so it did last for 9ish years so maybe it wasn't all that bad.

I put in OEM clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing and throwout bearing that I picked up from the stealership. They wanted $500 for a flywheel so I opted for the $40 O'reilly flywheel that was manufactured to oem spec, everything about it matched up to the old one. I put a new flywheel on because it was 1) easy and 2) the old one was discolored and had inconsistencies that I could feel with my finger nail. I wish there was a good tutorial online for doing a runout test on flywheels....but honestly it was just easier to replace.

What do you know about clutch break ins? What seems to be the consensus online is to drive 500 easy miles around town. Would towing a camper cause glazing? Or otherwise harm it? I'd reeeeeeeeeally like to take off with the camper tomorrow and drink some beer after all this work (20hrs!).

 

Just documenting some things for others doing a clutch and might be reading this:

1 - the manual says to remove the exhaust, I did not and it was easy to work around it
2 - I wasted 2 hours trying to track down a stupid clutch alignment tool; these typically come with the clutch / pressure plate package if you purchase online; the dealership did not have one; I visually lined up clutch and had no issue, your eyes are better than you think.
3 - this job would be painful without a transmission jack; do yourself a favor and buy the cheap one from Harbor Freight (then return it)
4 - it's not necessary to disconnect the clutch slave cylinder; it can dangle safely out of the way; just a little tip to save time so you don't have to refill and bleed it