What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

haha Youre trusting 3 computers doing it "old school": the pump computer, your calculator, and the odometer/trip computer. But I get it. Computers are scary. We've all seen Terminator.

 

Finally got my Truck after I ordered at the beginning of March. TRD Sport Upgrade package. I Have had it for 2 weeks now. Installed Step bars, roof rack and a hood deflector. And transferred my DuraTracs from my 09.

 

It only changed the nav and NOT the odo. I tested it over 5000 miles.

 

The odomerter is a more-or-less objective measure of actual distance traveled. "Miles to empty" is only a vague estimate based on your driving conditions (speed, hills, weather, etc.) at the moment and the amount of gas in the tank. A slight change in any of those conditions can have a significant impact on your "miles to empty" reading. If that reading drops faster than your odometer climbs, it means your gas mileage dropped because of changing driving conditions.

It's not uncommon for the "miles to empty" figure to increase (which, by your logic, would be equivalent to the odometer spinning backwards) if you go from low gas-mileage driving to higher gas-mileage driving.

 

Man, thanks a lot for the info, bud!

 

Just two. I have no choice but to rely on the pump and the ODO. But I do the long math.

 

Any deviation found?

This forum has a large number of people that seem to love doing their own math on MPGs. Were these MPG computers notoriously bad in the past? Or is it just a general techno-pessimism of truck owners? I did the math for the first 5 tanks on my truck and there was no difference. Maybe .1 MPG here or there, but I would chalk that up to a rounding error on my end--ie the truck is probably more accurate.

 

Hmm, you don't have much deformation in the kayak when it is strapped down to the rack, are you using a craddle or something that i haven't noticed on the rack? Everyone I see that has them strapped down has them ratcheted on nice and tight unless they have a craddle or holder.

Any issues with it staying put? OR are the people I see with them done here putting the straps way to tight?

Steve

 

What size bolts to remove the air dam?

 

Where are you riding?

 

My poor little pea brain can only process out two decimal places. I (rarely) but sometime will use a calculator. I like to think I'm keeping a skill that's long since gone away. You know, in case the power goes out. Forever. Hehe.


I don't really care all that much but I just like to know what my actual is vs what computer says vs what Toyota says I'm supposed to get (which never will happen)

 

Thanks for the info this makes sense not too worried about it just found it a little weird

 

Care to show us some pics on how it's done to removing it? Thanks

 

Got the rear Bushwackers on tonight. I'm 3" wider than stock with the LT front, an have All-Pro 1.25 spacers in the back with 34x10.50 KO2's.
Coverage is perfect. Have the fronts on this weekend if I get time.

 

We didn't have a chance to take any pics while we were swapping the hoods; our hands were kind of full lol

Basically, open the hood and put it on the prop rod. Undo the windshield squirter hose at the hinge. Undo the two hinge bolts per side which attach to the underside of the hood. 12mm ratchet. Keep a firm grasp on things so you don't scratch or damage anything. Remove one hood, put it in a safe place (we put one hood on a spare tire with cardboard on top). Remove the other hood the exact same way and transfer it to the new truck. Bolt it on about 95%, connect squirter hose. Adjust as necessary. Pick up the other hood, do the same to place it on the new truck.
Adjust the two rubber stoppers at the front corners of the core support to set height at front corners of hoods.
Stand back, admire. Have a few choice beverages.

 

10mm, I believe. I was looking at it earlier, but didn't take it off yet.

 

Side facing pics?

 

Shit rooster..... you just changed the game.....

 

I'll take a couple more tomorrow. Have to get up in 4 hrs