New England B.S. Thread

This is true. And true.....I end up staring at everyone's asses

 

90-95 300ZX TT 5spd T-Top, 90-93 preferred. Black on black preferred, would also accept dark blue or maybe silver, no green, purple, beige or yellow, no beige interiors. Untouched by Dominic Toretto, Jr, absolutely no rust. Condition and maintenance records are more important than raw mileage. $12,000 budget, more or less. I've found a few over the past year or so, but I wasn't yet in a position to buy.

It'll be out there, I just don't know where or how.

 

We do, though I'd lean more towards strangling them..nothing like feeling the breath grow harder beneath my fingers and watching the eyes beg for mercy because the voice cannot.

And as I always say: Nothing a pair of stiletto heels won't fix!

 

Whenever I look for cars like that I look in the southern states, where they aren't going to be all corroded. I'd check any z car forums too

Did a quick search on eBay. I think you'll be able to find something but you might have to be flexible on color

 

Especially a foreign one..my Datsun 280 was a rust/rotfest and it was only 10 yrs old at the time..

 

I've been on the forums but everything I find worth anything is in CA. It seems like a bunch of them were stuffed away as summer cars tho so we will see. I can stretch a bit for the right one.

Most of what I saw on eBay didn't interest me the last time I looked. I actually don't want anything with mods this go round.

 

I thought about getting into the car business. I don't know how much longer I would want to do my current job.

 

I think for something cherry and unmolested in a twin turbo manual it's going to have to be high teens. All of the classic Japanese cars are skyrocketing, especially if they're all original

 

We will see what this year brings. I've seen a few that weren't sub-20K miles cars in the 10-14K range. They haven't gone the way of the Supra, yet. I'm trying to take my STI money and get a play car, pay off the balance on my Tacoma and have a reserve fund for maintenance of the new car.

There's a NA in RI I want to go drive to make sure I like the platform with 60K on it for 8, I think. I'd be tempted if it wasn't light blue with a blue interior. I could always add the spoiler and turbo rear wheels. I don't really care how fast it is anymore.

 

I like the lifetime warranty I don't even know how many I have warranties on my Tacoma 2 this year.

Yea I figured it would be easy with the ball joint and not fuck with the alignment bolts. I know that proper torque really isn't important but I still would prefer to find the proper specs. Probably no surprises but I would hate to run into a vehicle specific simple issue that I didn't know about before taking it apart.

 

I was a flat rate vw mechanic for about 12 years. Not something I would want to go back to or recommend.

 

I meant the front end of the business. I've ran a service department but I've never worked on cars. I started selling cars when I was in college, and now I consult for dealerships. It's a hard business but there's a lot of money to be made, and if I ever lost my job I know I could easily find a job back in retail

 

Morning all. At DCA currently waiting for my connector up to the murder mitten. 6am flights suck, but I finally got one of the gold passes for the airport which made parking so nice, especially since the terminal b gold pass area is right next to the american airlines gate. So worth it.

 

And you will never have your weekends or holidays off!

 

well better than being unemployed. i'm not saying everyone should go into this field. i'm just saying if you need to make good money quickly with no experience, and get hired right away it's a good avenue

 

That's for sure. Being unemployed sucks.

 

Well, sort of funny we were talking about torquing bolts the other day, I just avoided what could have been a catastrophic failure this morning on my way to work. The end result was the truck being towed to a stealership. When I did my brakes last month, I properly torqued the caliper bolts to the spindle and even used red threadlocker (I saw they were threadlocked when I removed them so I put some on when I put the bolt back in). Well, those bolts either sheared or backed out and my caliper came off. I'm at a loss as to how that actually happened and am curious to know if the bolt broke or not. Everything was properly torqued with a calibrated wrench so, even when you do everything right, shit happens. Fortunately, I noticed the pedal was soft and heard a noise that wasn't right, pulled over, saw what happened and called for a tow. Very lucky I wasn't on the highway or with the little ones.

 

Damn Mike glad to hear you're okay, that could have been bad.

 

Thanks, me too! I don't know what it is about Ford, but I've had a lot of issues with bolts backing out on this truck and I've never had issues on any other vehicle I've ever owned. I even bought a new torque wrench to make sure it wasn't my equipment. I've had lug nuts loosen up on several occasions and now this. I'm beginning to wonder if they're using cheap steel in their parts of specifying torques that are too high for the parts. I'm at the point where I check my torque on my lug nuts weekly or bi weekly.

 

Damn Mike, that's scary as hell! Invest in some SS safety wire and pliers. If it's good enough for the FAA, it's probably good enough for a truck! Problem is getting bolts with a hole in the head....