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Lots of people have that happen, including me.

Got a new catalytic converter and haven't heard it since. Didn't notice it until about 40k miles.

 

Pretty common. Mine does it a couple times a week.

 

I got a new cat and still does this. This is especially true when it's cold... seems to send too much fuel and it goes beyond the CATs as it detonates ...just a speculation. I hate that it doesn't this...I don't accept it's normal, but it happens with the 2TR-FE motors from the reading I have done. Dealer just says they never heard of it. I'm surprised it still happens in 2016 models, but it is the same motor. I believe this isn't a mileage this...it's when engine is cold or sitting for long time.

 

Most definitely experience it when it's colder.

 

Do you wait to let the fuel pump prime the motor or do you just put the key in and start the motor right away? I would leave it for about 30 secs and see if this reduces it. The fuel pump pushes an enormous amount of fuel as soon as the key is in the on position. I still get the pop when it's cold but not as bad if I let the pump settle. All this is theory... if you take it to the dealer.... please let us know what part they think is wrong if yours is so easy to reproduce.

 

OP any update on this? I'm curious to know...I also wonder about the 3 big upgrade of electrical wire would help with more current to the spark plugs to burn off the fuel at start up. Sometimes it's harder to start if I don't wait for the fuel pump and it's been a few days from not driving.

 

Toyotas generally start the fuel pump when you crank, you'll notice there is no fuel pump sound in the ON position.

 

doesn't make sense what you say. I hear the pump in the on position. I'm not sure if the gen1 work the same as gen2. It's not the fuel pump is constantly delivering fuel in the on position, but I do hear it. So what is the point of the on position? Accessory is for the radio and etc. The start position is the turn over the starter.

 

Take it out of the ON position while you're driving and you'll have your answer.

 

If you know the answer then just answer it... being vague doesn't help or silly response is not all that constructive

 

Drivers are scary these days.

 

Are you a real doctor or do you play on one on the Internet...I'm reading your postings in other threads and seems like your are trolling for responses and saying stupid shit like turn off the ignition while driving. Seems you can't contribute to solving a problem or you resort to stupid comments that of a prepubescent intellect.

 

He was right though, you'll certainly find out all the functions the "ON" position serves that way. It does everything from bringing the ECU online to letting it run Emissions pre test. To running smog pump. There are all sorts of other functions. We had a time where first Gen members were bringing vehicles into mechanics for fuel pump issues cause they didn't hear it (it only begins to pump when you start cranking) when in fact it was just their starters or something else acting up. That is why I brought it up, the 2/3 Gen may or may not be the same but I highly doubt with multiple check valves and opportunities to prime that your pop is fuel pump related.

Also learn to take a joke, your on the internet not Encyclopedia Tacoma.

 

I know fuel pump will be off when you move it out of the ON position, but that didn't confirm your statement that fuel pump is only ON when it's cranking. I'm not sure how you can confirm that is true...you could be right, but I like some facts how that is true. The ECU can certainly have the fuel pump primed in the ON position and then start to pump when the starter is cranking the engine. To say the fuel pump is only on only when cranking means there's a delay and I don't see how all the fuel can cause this pop of too much fuel passing the CATs. So how do you know that the fuel pump is only on when the engine is cranking for a fact? Is it something you observe when fixing trucks?

joke is fine, but when most of his post are not constructive, vague, dumb/dangerous it's only for his enjoyment. Plus at least be funny.

 

You can put a test light to the active side of the relay when it lights then you'll know the fuel pump is active. On my truck the fuel pump only becomes active if the starter motor has begun cranking. Like I said the same may not be true of the third generation trucks but it is true of the first.

 

Thanks for the suggestion...I'll get under the truck one day and have someone move the key to on position and see if the pump motor is making any sound. Gen3 is same motor as what I have Gen2.

 

For figuring out stuff like this, a test light is a super great tool and ultra cheap. So many electrical things can be diagnosed with a couple mins time and a circuit diagram.

 

Just jumped in the truck. Fired it up.....POP POP POP.

 

Poping through the intake or exhaust?