Series or Parallel for tweets/ door speakers

You're expecting the wrong performance out of your tweeters. Tweeters generally focus, traditionally, on frequencies between 3/3.5kHz and up. No clear voice reproduction should be expected from tweeters. It sounds like you are confusing your tweeters with mid-range speakers.

My personal preference for frequency reproduction maps out like this:

Tweeters - 3500 kHz or higher
Mid-range - 250 Hz to 3/3.5 kHz ** This is where most of you vocals reside **
Mid-bass - 80 Hz to 250 Hz
Subs - 80 Hz and lower

Also, if I read your OP correctly, you have 6 total speakers with 4 ohm impedances. The two front channels you are driving all the speakers with is seeing a nominal load of 1.33 ohms. Even though impedance changes with music/frequency it would be better to wire above the nominal load your amplifier is rated for...in this case 2 ohms.

To make it easier on you I would ditch the rear speakers, wire the the tweeter and front co-axial together in parallel to make a 2 ohm nominal load and adjust your crossovers to allow the frequency range desired through the channel. Co-axials have built-in passive crossovers so you would only have to worry about what low frequency range is getting through.

 

In the sound clip video I first played the audio on the coaxial, then went up to the tweeters, let you hear them for a bit then went back down to the coaxial and once more to the tweeter at the end. @t4daddy

https://youtu.be/tWoNeE2aLLI

 

Fantastic post. Thank you for your input! From what I gather, what you are saying is to ditch the rear woofers all together of tie them into my sub rear channel?

Would keeping the tweeters and coax's tied together in parallel automatically change the front setup from 4 ohm to 2 ohm?

One thing, the crossovers are non adjustable. The only adjust I have is back at the amp in gain, and HPF for the fronts.

 

Speaking of frequencies, maybe you could school me on the EQ adjustments @jad3d. I have 13 band eq on my AVIC. What shoulf I set my sliders to for good bass but great clarity without the vocals sounded all muddy?

 

Do not tie your rear speakers in with the subs...that's just going to make many things worse.

Keeping the 4ohm tweeter and the 4ohm co-axial wired in parallel will make a nominal 2ohm load.

Try ditching the rear speakers altogether (disconnected completely) and keeping the front speakers. Then adjust your amplifier crossover (or headunit crossover if it allows it) to allow only the frequency range you desire to the front speakers. With your current front setup you only have to really watch the lowest frequency being allowed through as the passive crossovers will act as a "fall back" for whatever else frequencies you want to keep out.

 

Goddamn xfinity!!! My service is spotty at best. You mentioned staging, I call it imaging. That why I posted those pics then my service crapped out.

 

The adjustment range on the amp is 80 HPF and 125 HPF. I currently have it at 125 HPF and have the HU's amp settings set to 125 -18 db for the HPF. LPF on the amp is 80 and at the HU is set to 80 LPF -18db as well I believe. Inverted phase sub as audio sounds cleaner when the inverted option is turned on.

 

This comes out mostly on personal taste/preference. I will say you would want to cut (attenuate) frequencies that are too "bright". Boosting will add distortion quicker. Without having an RTA handy it would come out to what you like.

With your AVIC having a 13 band-eq it makes tuning a bit more trying as you have to tune the eq on the headunit with the amplifier crossovers turned off. I personally use the amplifier crossovers as more of a protection than a tuning adjustment.

 

Finally, 6 1/2in in the lower door, (mid range) tweeters in factory location, both driven with a "high powered" Pioneer head unit. Box behind rear seat, two 8inch Kickers driven with a inexpensive Cadence amp, bridged at 2 ohm stable. Nothing in the rear doors. All crossover points are controlled by the head unit.

 

That sounds good, I actually agree with what you are saying on attenuating the "bright frequencies! Shall I snap a pic of what the EQ frequencies are on the 13 band so you can give me a suggestion on what to set my sliders to?

 

Nothing in the rear at all? So how do your passengers really hear anything in the rear? Does the sound really carry over that much to the rear?

 

With a solid and clean sounding front stage, rear fill is nearly pointless.

 

Respectable statement. I'll go ahead and disconnect my rears in the morning. I'll probably just disconnect the jumpers at the amp for the rear channels. Should that stabilize things up front I am guessing? What benefit besides nominal ohm load will I experience by disconnecting them?

 

No, it doesn't. I compiled this layout for the front seats. Again ********* pointed me in this direction. I dropped some coaxials in the rear doors (a few different pairs) totally destroyed the imaging, or staging in your words. Plus, fuck whoever is in the back seats (rarely anyone).

 

I see what you are saying about playing with the rear on ********* now. So Coax's actually did more harm than good in the rear huh? Wow. I did not see that coming, and you are right, fuck the rear passengers, them bitches are lucky they are even getting a free ride.

 

Yep!!! I'm most likely way older than most of you guys. I'll be 54 in a few months. Old school way was everything behind you, just some in the front to fill. But that's NOT how live music is, it's the exact opposite.

 

Ha!!!

 

Wait! If you're not running any type of true sub, or NOTHING be hind you, you prolly want to leave your rear door speakers in place. Or your set up will sound even worse.

 

Well shit. You actually do have a solid point in that respect. Damn. I never thought of it that way. Good call!

Hey @jad3d ,shall I snap a pic of the 13 band eq so you can sort of make suggestions on which way I should swing those sliders for the cleanest sound?