DIY LCA Ball Joint Replacement 2005+ Tacoma

No. I did a lot of searching and decided to leave it alone. I had even bought a set of used factory arms with intent to refurbish with new bushings and LBJ. But I may just sell those and buy new or aftermarket arms... Probably after summer or even next year.

 

Thanks guess I will just watch it and check it for play when I rotate my tires. Looks like a nightmare to change.

 

Okay. What I've done is buy some factory LCA's from someone else to work on so I didn't have take my truck down.

I have completed fully refurbishing them.

I went with

$24 Moog K80827 Front Lower Suspension Ball Joint for Toyota Tacoma

Moog K80827 LBJ. Note that the product was redesigned and no more big umbrella style dust boot, they also cut starter threads in the zerk fitting hole.



I had a shop press the ball joints, I took the arms into the shop with the new LJB's

20 minutes, and $22.50 I was walking out with my LCA's with new LJB pressed in.

I am very much DIY guy, but it was so easy to trade the money for this service. A lot less pain and time for me.

 

Just finished replacing upper/lower ball joints, struts, and wheel bearings in 2007 4wd Tacoma. Pretty big job for a novice like me.

The first unpleasant discovery, after I installed the spindles I discovered I could not access the LBJ grease fittings (NAPA LBJ came with 45 degree fittings). The outer bearing Seal blocks the grease fitting on grease gun.

Second unpleasant discovery, the driver side UBJ boot tore open, I assume after taking truck off the lift and the suspension compressed. Found big pile of grease oozing out of the boot after I drove home from the garage.

So now I am going to trying and replace 45 fittings with 90s on LBJs, hopefully I can accomplish this leaving the spindles put together. After that, going to try and replace the boot only for the ball joint.

Any suggestions?

 

Same shit happened to me brand new UBJ, Moog dust boot wrinkled and got a hole. Piece of shit boot.

I just finished attemting to replaceing the torn dust boot. I ended up destroying the boot as Moog makes it difficult... Long story. I ended up patching the boot with rubber sealant.

Is yours Napa?

I heard about problems with the 45 zerks, so I installed 90 in my refurb LCA's, not yet on the truck.

Thanks for your post

 

@TacoAlaMode Not sure if you saw this thread or not, but for future reference.

 

@Large
@Chuy

Any issues with the zerk fitting contacting the CV boot/axle?

I went with Large's advice and installed the 90* zerk fitting on the LJB. However, clearance is going to be very tight in there.

Just wondering and thought I'd ask before I take the truck apart for refurb LCA install.

Thanks

 

I had no problems, it was definitely a tight fit though. And I could still get the grease gun fitting in there.

 

Thanks man! Appreciated.

I got mine ready to go.

 

I don't know why but Moog uses 15/16" nut for LBJ, it's not 24 mm as described in the OP. Maybe they changed over the years...

Seems backwards to me to use SAE, since most stuff is metric on automotive.

 

Anyone have good luck with the Moog lower ball joints or NAPA Premium ball joints?


I'm in a bind and need something ASAP.

 

I replaced my driver side with NAPA Chassis parts NCP 2601736 ball joint about 6 months ago with zero complaints and I'm about to replace the passenger this weekend while replacing spindles and hubs. The 4x4/prerunner style may be different than the 5 lug but unless you are doing crazy things with your truck they will do what you need them to.

 

The 5 lugs use the same ball joints from what I see just different control arms.
Thanks for the update bud.


Yes I do crazy things. Like get the truck airborne...well I used to and those joints are still on the truck.

 

@h.zack801 check this out

 

Subd

 

I have a question for anyone that has replaced the lower ball joint with the moog joint that has the improved boot design.
I got everything in but the ball joint doesnt seem to be seating into the steering stop. I've been cranking on it and worried of snapping it I got so much pressure on tightening it.

Does this look like it's seated enough? The castle nut has passed the thread location where the cotter pin goes in

 

Oh also, I checked the torque and I'm definitely at 103ft lbs according to Moog. I've gone passed it probably. Is it just to 103 and you're good? Or does that ball joint need to be seated better on that bracket?

 

Sub

 

Subd.

Thinking about doing uppers and lowers with new bushings this weekend.

 

Where did you get yours from? I want to make sure I get the new design. I was going to order from Amazon but it's showing the old design boot. TIA