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Removing Steering Rack

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by FWAdam, May 6, 2016.

  1. May 6, 2016 at 11:36 AM
    #1
    FWAdam

    FWAdam [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey team. I'm neck deep in moving parts over to my new (to me) frame. The last thing I have to disconnect and move over before lifting off the cab is my steering rack.

    The bolts that connect it to the frame are easy for me to loosen and remove. However, I can't seem to get the rack disconnected from the steering column. I've soaked the bolts / nuts in penetrant several times and have also torched them. It's hard to get the torque I want because there is play in the rack when I start to apply pressure, so it is moving before I can transfer the torque to the nut. Any tips / tricks to help me get past this point? I've reconnect the rack-to-frame hardware to lessen the movement, but it's not enough.

    If all else fails, I'll cut the bolts and get new hardware. I was just hoping for a better way.

    For the record, I have a 2001 standard cab prerunner, 2.7. Thanks for the input!
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2016
  2. May 6, 2016 at 5:00 PM
    #2
    hossmaster

    hossmaster Well-Known Member

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    Try just unbolting the rag joint / the rubber flap that connects the steering rod and the rack.
     
  3. May 6, 2016 at 5:03 PM
    #3
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    Reserected from the dead.
    That clamp around the rack input is a bitch. The rag joint is the way to go.
     
  4. May 7, 2016 at 9:29 AM
    #4
    FWAdam

    FWAdam [OP] Well-Known Member

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    DIY Frame replacement New rear leaf springs (General Spring, stock height) Wheeler's greasable shackles Bilstein 5100 / 5125 Roll-on bedliner Poly bushings all around Leer topper Michelin Defender LTX M/S tires New drum brakes, rotors and pads, and Nickel-Copper brake lines Window tint Wheels painted black Interstate battery New spark plugs Chrome bumpers painted Bucket seats and console (soon) Emblems plasti-dipped (soon) 4x4 conversion (2017)
    I think the rag joint is the place I've been working on. Do you have a picture? It's the area above where the power steering hoses connect.
     
  5. May 8, 2016 at 3:19 PM
    #5
    skeezix

    skeezix Well-Known Member

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    Okay I give up. What's a rag joint?
     
    Obsessed2000 and FWAdam[OP] like this.
  6. May 8, 2016 at 4:24 PM
    #6
    pofarm

    pofarm Well-Known Member

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    Google is your friend.

    tmp_20169-RNB-31015_NR733942408.jpg
     
  7. May 9, 2016 at 5:31 AM
    #7
    FWAdam

    FWAdam [OP] Well-Known Member

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    DIY Frame replacement New rear leaf springs (General Spring, stock height) Wheeler's greasable shackles Bilstein 5100 / 5125 Roll-on bedliner Poly bushings all around Leer topper Michelin Defender LTX M/S tires New drum brakes, rotors and pads, and Nickel-Copper brake lines Window tint Wheels painted black Interstate battery New spark plugs Chrome bumpers painted Bucket seats and console (soon) Emblems plasti-dipped (soon) 4x4 conversion (2017)
    Looking at the FSM, is the rag joint also referred to as the "intermediate #2 shaft"?
    I noticed at this connection point, there is one bolt at the bottom portion that seems to act as a clamping force around the top of the rack. I've got that bolt off and suppose that if I pried the gap a little and gave the top f the rack some taps, it might come free. Is this correct, or do I need to give the two bolts above it some more attention?
     
  8. May 9, 2016 at 1:58 PM
    #8
    FWAdam

    FWAdam [OP] Well-Known Member

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    DIY Frame replacement New rear leaf springs (General Spring, stock height) Wheeler's greasable shackles Bilstein 5100 / 5125 Roll-on bedliner Poly bushings all around Leer topper Michelin Defender LTX M/S tires New drum brakes, rotors and pads, and Nickel-Copper brake lines Window tint Wheels painted black Interstate battery New spark plugs Chrome bumpers painted Bucket seats and console (soon) Emblems plasti-dipped (soon) 4x4 conversion (2017)
    For the record, I had good luck unbolting the 12mm bolt above the rag joint, where the shaft inserts. Got the rack knocked off right away after doing that.
     
  9. May 9, 2016 at 6:34 PM
    #9
    pofarm

    pofarm Well-Known Member

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    That's what I did when I stripped the cab off the frame. Remove the pinch bolt between tje rag joint and rack, pry the gap open and it slid apart easily.
     
  10. May 10, 2016 at 10:53 AM
    #10
    skeezix

    skeezix Well-Known Member

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    I was wondering so much about what a rag joint could be that I entirely forgot to google it! :facepalm:
     
  11. May 10, 2016 at 1:28 PM
    #11
    Dustrider

    Dustrider Well-Known Member

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    Glad to see this as I am about to tackle this at home.
    My 98 tacoma 4x4 steering rack has a lot of slop in the steering when wigglng the left wheel horizontal left and right. It looks like the previous owner hit a rock or something at the left tie rod end end , boot it ripped, leaks oil and the left side of the rack travels up and down when the wheel turns, instead of just left and right. Right side looks normal, left tire moves about 2 inches before pushing steering, right is tight
    A new rack is $770 from Toyota but may just roll the dice with a rebuilt for about $2-300 (truck has 270,000 miles)
    Tie rod ends seem OK, if I can get them off without tearing the boots
    Hopefully this will cure the minor bump steer on wagon wheel tracks, seems like the left wheel gets pushed and causes wander , right wheel seems more stable
    I can live with the typical steering column shaft hex slider breakaway rattle and its 2" of play
    got 2 alignment shop estimates at $1200 both said ball joints are good, both said replace rack and tie rod ends
     

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